Decided to attempt annual service by myself

[geochr]

Each year whilst Fabia SE 1,2 (2014) is due for MOT, I usually ask the mechanic to do a full service whilst they have the car. To save a bit of cash, I think I will try to attempt this myself. I dont have much mechanical aptitude but im willing to learn and give things a try. Ive looked a several YouTube videos which gives me confidence that I should at least try it, but i recognise that things are never as easy as they seem! 

 

What parts would you say require servicing each year? I was thinking...

 

Oil and filter change- Obviously, although someone mentioned also replacing the sump plug and washer as well. Is that the case?

Air filter- I would assume this needs to be changed annually?

Pollen filter- Should I change this?

Spark plugs- Should these be replaced annually? 

Fuel Filter- This looked the most difficult. Should this ideally be replaced?

 

Any other recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks

[Ootohere]

@geochr

?

What servicing has the car had, is there any record?

 

A new £2 sump plug. 

Or maybe 'suck' out the oil with a pump and do not change the sump plug, or change after the oil is out.

 

The Pollen filter is a every 2nd year thing. Or check it, vacuum it, clean the area and refit. 

But they are cheep.

 

Air filter is a 4 year / 40,000 mile thing, or check it, see if clean.

But that are cheep,

 

Spark Plugs are a 4 year / 40,000 mile thing.

Not that expensive. 

Fuel filter might well be worth replacing at 6 years old.

 

Brake fluid change was scheduled for 2017 and then 2019.  Has it had the brake fluid changed ever, or checked for H20 content?

Brakes could do with servicing, have the rear drums ever been off?

Wiper Blades, Tyres etc etc checked before MOT. 

Edited 21 June, 2020 by Roottootemblowinootsoot

[Mickmartin]

15 hours ago, geochr said:

Each year whilst Fabia SE 1,2 (2014) is due for MOT, I usually ask the mechanic to do a full service whilst they have the car. To save a bit of cash, I think I will try to attempt this myself. I dont have much mechanical aptitude but im willing to learn and give things a try. Ive looked a several YouTube videos which gives me confidence that I should at least try it, but i recognise that things are never as easy as they seem! 

 

What parts would you say require servicing each year? I was thinking...

 

Oil and filter change- Obviously, although someone mentioned also replacing the sump plug and washer as well. Is that the case?

Air filter- I would assume this needs to be changed annually?

Pollen filter- Should I change this?

Spark plugs- Should these be replaced annually? 

Fuel Filter- This looked the most difficult. Should this ideally be replaced?

 

Any other recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks

 

 

Oil & filter -Absolute canter as the oil filters right in front of you as you open the bonnet, circled below, Only issue is the alternators below the filter, cover the alternator with an old rag or paper towel when removing the old filter to reduce the chance of dripping oil into your alternator. Usual process when replacing the new filter, run your finger  round the seal with a bit of engine oil before screwing back on.

 

 

Oil - 14mm sump plug on underside of the engine, Should have a metal washer on it, Sometimes rubber. Should be located more to the passenger side so jack up the car from the Near side(drivers) front wheel and this will ensure you've got a good angle to drain and no oil/debris are left in the bottom of the sump, Again check the condition of the washer and decide if you need a new one or not.

 

Air filter - Unscrew the airbox and have a look, see what condition the air filter is in and decide from there.

 

Pollen filter - Yep same again, Access above the passenger footwell, have a look but this isn't essential for an mot.

 

Spark plugs - All depends if you knew when they were last changed? Again not essential unless the cars showing symptom's of them needing replaced, ie misfiring or the ones installed have been in too long, If unsure take them out and check, bolt size is M14X1.5X22 (16mm socket)and they should have crush washers on them, The spark plugs are NGK IZFR6P7 Iridiums, or VAG PN 03F 905 600, gapped at 0.8-0.1mm. You can also buy a plug puller for a few quid off bay/amazon if your struggling to release the plug from the coil. Tighten until you hear an audible crack(crush washer).

 

Fuel filter - Located in front of your drivers side rear wheel(follow the fuel lines). Simple to replace, although messy. Again unless signs of any issues most people will never change it until it breaks, Cheap enough to replace,

 

As @Roottootemblowinootsoot mentioned, Everything else is really visual inspection, Brake pads, Tyre wear etc, If you have the car on ramps or axle stands at any point at all give all moving parts like anti roll bar, drop links, wheels etc a quick shake by hand to see if there's any play.

 

 

I've seen too many incidents of garages claiming to fit service parts and don't bother, serviced my own for the last 15+ years. People will argue the point of service history however in my personal opinion "service history" means absolutely nothing in this day and age.

 

 

Edited 22 June, 2020 by Mickmartin

[geochr]

Wow two superb in-depth replies. What a fantastic source of information this site is!.

 

In reply to roottoot.........looking through the old paperwork, it looks like it had a service at 8519 miles and 17598 miles. I bought the car at 33000 miles. I then got it serviced (42980 miles) at the next MOT and also got the timing belt changed. I am unsure wether the brake fluid has ever been changed. Thank you for all your other invaluable info.

 

In reply to Mickmartin.....again thank you for all your invaluable info. I’m actually looking forward to giving it a go...

 

One other thing, what would be the best type of oil when I do change it? The engine code is CGPA. Looking online it seems to be 5w40?? Would you agree with this?

[edbostan]

I always use to service my own cars because I could choose the oil and when to change it. I was not subservient to the car telling me when to service it. I had no problems. Now that I have turned 70 and not so flexible to slide under cars, the Roomster has that plastic undertray to remove and then engine has that inverted oil filter positioned above the alternator which I am wary of oil spillage so I have handed the car to the dealer and latterly to an independent specialist.

Edited 22 June, 2020 by edbostan

[Mickmartin]

44 minutes ago, geochr said:

Wow two superb in-depth replies. What a fantastic source of information this site is!.

 

In reply to roottoot.........looking through the old paperwork, it looks like it had a service at 8519 miles and 17598 miles. I bought the car at 33000 miles. I then got it serviced (42980 miles) at the next MOT and also got the timing belt changed. I am unsure wether the brake fluid has ever been changed. Thank you for all your other invaluable info.

 

In reply to Mickmartin.....again thank you for all your invaluable info. I’m actually looking forward to giving it a go...

 

One other thing, what would be the best type of oil when I do change it? The engine code is CGPA. Looking online it seems to be 5w40?? Would you agree with this?

 

5w40 or 5w30 will work fine mate.

[mrgf]

9 hours ago, Mickmartin said:

 

 

Oil & filter -Absolute canter as the oil filters right in front of you as you open the bonnet, circled below, Only issue is the alternators below the filter, cover the alternator with an old rag or paper towel when removing the old filter to reduce the chance of dripping oil into your alternator. Usual process when replacing the new filter, run your finger  round the seal with a bit of engine oil before screwing back on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've seen too many incidents of garages claiming to fit service parts and don't bother, serviced my own for the last 15+ years. People will argue the point of service history however in my personal opinion "service history" means absolutely nothing in this day and age.

Nothing stops you from keeping receipts and filling in the history yourself. Obviously the next owner may not be as confident but lets be blunt... Any run of the mill car on the road today, around ten years old and a service history is debatable, anyway. Add to that, a loving owner who does his/her own may spot issues and fix them and will most likely do the job they said they would do, for their own benefit. You rely on trust when you allow someone else to do the job.  I had several genuine services, where the dealer said they topped up screen wash, for example, despite me knowing it was full to the brim. Now the techie MAY just have looked and thought he did it, or the person making up the bill thought they had, but no fluid was added so I got charged for the time and trouble, along with the cost of the fluid, just for someone to look and see it full!

9 hours ago, Mickmartin said:

 

 

[26DIPP]

I have serviced our car myself. I do not change the oil on a time basis but a mileage basis. Oil does not go off if in Corona times the car sits on the drive / in the garage and does very little mileage. The car's ECU is still counting down though. Air and cabin filters you can quickly check visually to see whether they need replacing before ordering. Brake fluid you should replace every 2 - 3 years.

 

To service most modern cars you need a ramp or jack and axle stands to get underneath.

[John Fisher]

I found that the garage was only changing the oil so decided to service the car my self. The coil pack removal tool is well worth getting as they can be difficult to pull out. My oil sucking out device would not go down the dip stick tube. Sump plug washer looked OK but I replaced it with a new copper one. To get the oil filter off the plastic inner shaft give it a sharp tap on a solid surface. It doesn't take much oil so go easy. You do need to jack the car up and support it or use a couple of ramps made from some big timbers such as railway sleepers cut to form ramps. The front brake pads can be checked through the alloy wheels. 

Good luck. 

[geochr]

On 22/06/2020 at 13:00, Mickmartin said:

 

5w40 or 5w30 will work fine mate.

Im searching for 5w30 oil to buy and the price difference can be huge. What would be the difference between...say...this Shell Helix at around £28

 

https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/p/shell-helix-ultra-professional-af-5w-30-5ltr-521772611?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0vXf3t6a6gIViKztCh30ogAaEAkYASABEgId7fD_BwE

 

....or.....

 

this much cheaper type...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1777907321?iid=303081769191&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=303081769191&targetid=910259638509&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007321&poi=&campaignid=10195652606&mkgroupid=101938389037&rlsatarget=aud-381667280803:pla-910259638509&abcId=1145987&merchantid=113584551&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0vXf3t6a6gIViKztCh30ogAaEAkYBCABEgLUAfD_BwE

 

I understand that some oils will be higher quality than others. I drive roughly 9000 miles per year. I dont want the price to be my only deciding factor. Any tips please?

[Mickmartin]

22 minutes ago, geochr said:

Im searching for 5w30 oil to buy and the price difference can be huge. What would be the difference between...say...this Shell Helix at around £28

 

https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/p/shell-helix-ultra-professional-af-5w-30-5ltr-521772611?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0vXf3t6a6gIViKztCh30ogAaEAkYASABEgId7fD_BwE

 

....or.....

 

this much cheaper type...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1777907321?iid=303081769191&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=303081769191&targetid=910259638509&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007321&poi=&campaignid=10195652606&mkgroupid=101938389037&rlsatarget=aud-381667280803:pla-910259638509&abcId=1145987&merchantid=113584551&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0vXf3t6a6gIViKztCh30ogAaEAkYBCABEgLUAfD_BwE

 

I understand that some oils will be higher quality than others. I drive roughly 9000 miles per year. I dont want the price to be my only deciding factor. Any tips please?

Usually if you shop around you can get a discount code somewhere online or if lucky enough the website will have a sale on.

 

I usually pay between £15-20 for the above shell oil when it’s on sale, it’s a bit cheaper Here on eBay with free delivery

 

I do less miles than you a year and stick to one service a year and I’ve never had any oil issues, There’s loads of variants to choose from when choosing oil and people can be fussy however to me if it’s a named brand, a good price and the correct weight for my car I’ll happily use it.

 

[geochr]

Thanks Mick, ill buy that via your link. Cheers

[Ootohere]

@geochr

You could pop into Tesco or Asda and there will be 5w 30 Full Synthetic to VW 504 / 507 sitting and quite possibly reduced, 

or 5w 40 Full Synthetic to VW 502. If you are going to service annually or at 10,000 miles or under.

Loads of choice about of oil for 'much cheapness'.

& D & A Motor Factors or Dingbro for your consumables. 

Support your local businesses. But then using 'Multi Nationals' is OK if the price is right.

Edited 25 June, 2020 by Roottootemblowinootsoot

[geochr]

Thanks, Ill try in Dingbro.

[vtxracer]

Hello ! Just joined this forum. I dont own a skoda but i have a seat ibiza 6j. I like that I could find way more info on this forum compared to others ! Nice job ! 

I have a few questions about servicing my car and i did not want to create a new thread. 

So, my car is a very early tsi ibiza. 7/2009 with a cavf engine, dsg (like a fabia vrs) and currently at 56k miles. 

 

-I have been using liqui moly 4200 for the last few years. Would you recommend a better oil ? Castrol edge 5w30 LL or mobil esp 5w30 would be better ? I was thinking about also using an oil additive. Maybe liqui moly ceratec or motorkote hyper lubricant. 

 

-Does the supercharger belt need replacing ? I cannot find any info about it. I will replace the serpentine belt due to its age. 

 

-The injectors are a common failure on these engines. I have not had any issues yet. Maybe a few very random misfires at high load, low- mid revs without triggering any codes. (Spark plugs and coils are new, less that 3k miles). Should I clean and rebuilt them just in case ? 

 

-Would any of these valve cleaning sprays that are used via the intake have any noticeable effect on cleaning carbon deposits ? I suspect that my engine maybe suffering from carbon build up. 

 

-Sometimes I can hear a rattling noise from the engine during start. Just for a second and not on cold starts ! Usually when the car has been sitting for 4-5 hours. Sound like the chain stretching but i cannot confirm it. Are there any other early signs that indicate a chain tensioner failure ? 

 

Thank you for your help ! 

 

 

[geochr]

Hi there. Don't think there would be any issues with starting your own thread as you have a different car to mine. I posted this under the Skoda Fabia MK2 forum. Your query may get more views if it's posted in the relevant section. All the best

[vtxracer]

The section should be correct. Ibiza 6j is the same generation as mk2 fabia and engine is the same as vrs. 

Maybe an admin can move my post to a more suitable thread or a new thread ? 

Thanks 

[geochr]

Ah right. My apologies! Quite new to this forum as well. It's a great source of info

[rum4mo]

1 hour ago, vtxracer said:

The section should be correct. Ibiza 6j is the same generation as mk2 fabia and engine is the same as vrs. 

Maybe an admin can move my post to a more suitable thread or a new thread ? 

Thanks 

 

Maybe you would be better doing that yourself, ie starting your own new thread - or adding this to one of the "twin charger" threads to keep everything  together.

 

I'm sure that no one minds or bothers that you have  SEAT Ibiza Twincharger on a Skoda Fabia forum, I don't have a Skoda Fabia just a VW Polo - not a Twincharger though, only a 1.2TSI 110PS - or my wife has!

[Mickmartin]

15 hours ago, vtxracer said:

Hello ! Just joined this forum. I dont own a skoda but i have a seat ibiza 6j. I like that I could find way more info on this forum compared to others ! Nice job ! 

I have a few questions about servicing my car and i did not want to create a new thread. 

So, my car is a very early tsi ibiza. 7/2009 with a cavf engine, dsg (like a fabia vrs) and currently at 56k miles. 

 

-I have been using liqui moly 4200 for the last few years. Would you recommend a better oil ? Castrol edge 5w30 LL or mobil esp 5w30 would be better ? I was thinking about also using an oil additive. Maybe liqui moly ceratec or motorkote hyper lubricant. 

 

Would not advise to put any additives into your oil, These cars are delicate enough....Any decent grade 5w30/5w40 will see you fine

 

 

15 hours ago, vtxracer said:

 

-Does the supercharger belt need replacing ? I cannot find any info about it. I will replace the serpentine belt due to its age. 

 

Yes, The norm is to change the 2 auxiliary belts when changing your water pump, Both can be purchased for less than £20. Fairly easy job to change over the belts albeit tight and you need to loosen belt tensioners.etc.

 

 

15 hours ago, vtxracer said:

 

-The injectors are a common failure on these engines. I have not had any issues yet. Maybe a few very random misfires at high load, low- mid revs without triggering any codes. (Spark plugs and coils are new, less that 3k miles). Should I clean and rebuilt them just in case ? 

 

Only go with the recommended plus and coils, Don't trust a garage to put plugs in the car as 99% they are the wrong plugs. Plugs/coils are the main issue, these engines eat them and as for injectors....Never really been an issue on these, Oil jets/squinters yeah but injectors not really.

 

 

15 hours ago, vtxracer said:

 

-Would any of these valve cleaning sprays that are used via the intake have any noticeable effect on cleaning carbon deposits ? I suspect that my engine maybe suffering from carbon build up. 

 

In theory it should work, I wouldn't bother, Carbon clean is quite a big job on these for the proposed result. An oil catch can will do the same job.

 

15 hours ago, vtxracer said:

 

-Sometimes I can hear a rattling noise from the engine during start. Just for a second and not on cold starts ! Usually when the car has been sitting for 4-5 hours. Sound like the chain stretching but i cannot confirm it. Are there any other early signs that indicate a chain tensioner failure ? 

 

The problem with these is the water pump is located beside the chain, Its hard to differentiate between the noise of the water pump & the chain if there's a problem, early signs of a stretched/damaged chain would be the car effectively skipping a beat under power ie it would feel like a fuel issue and the car would be hesitant, again another big job to replace the chain.

 

[Ootohere]

@vtxracer

Welcome to the forum.

Is your Ibiza FR one that has a 1.4TSI that is 150ps as standard and remapped to 200hp?

[vtxracer]

5 hours ago, Mickmartin said:

 

Would not advise to put any additives into your oil, These cars are delicate enough....Any decent grade 5w30/5w40 will see you fine

 

 

 

Yes, The norm is to change the 2 auxiliary belts when changing your water pump, Both can be purchased for less than £20. Fairly easy job to change over the belts albeit tight and you need to loosen belt tensioners.etc.

 

 

 

Only go with the recommended plus and coils, Don't trust a garage to put plugs in the car as 99% they are the wrong plugs. Plugs/coils are the main issue, these engines eat them and as for injectors....Never really been an issue on these, Oil jets/squinters yeah but injectors not really.

 

 

 

In theory it should work, I wouldn't bother, Carbon clean is quite a big job on these for the proposed result. An oil catch can will do the same job.

 

 

The problem with these is the water pump is located beside the chain, Its hard to differentiate between the noise of the water pump & the chain if there's a problem, early signs of a stretched/damaged chain would be the car effectively skipping a beat under power ie it would feel like a fuel issue and the car would be hesitant, again another big job to replace the chain.

 

Thank you for the info ! 

I replaced spark plugs and coils myself. I used ngk  and beru zse 030. 

I was thinking about the injectors and carbon build up as the seems to sometimes hesitate during high load- low rpm conditions. Something like a misfire but without any fault codes. Now that you mentioned that this maybe be an early sign of timing chain failure I am even more worried ! My injectors should be the older variant than the ones you would find in most Vrs as its an early 2009. The new injector were used since mid 2010, right ?

I will avoid any spray cleaner for the intake and just clean them the right way of possible. 

The supercharger belt replacement may be an issue. I have not yet found any garage that has done this kind of work on a Tsi !

 

2 hours ago, Roottoot said:

@vtxracer

Welcome to the forum.

Is your Ibiza FR one that has a 1.4TSI that is 150ps as standard and remapped to 200hp?

Hello ! Thanks !

Yes, its the 150ps variant, CAVF engine with a custom, fairly conservative remap. Not aiming for any big power gain. 

[Ootohere]

@vtxracer

Did you have it on the dyno before remapping?

I drove a new one in 2012 when SEAT had stopped building the CAVE engine Ibiza and i had ordered a CTHE one for delivery in 2013.

The 1.4TSI 150PS with DSG was as quick as a 180ps CAVE engine vRS.

I suspected that SEAT had them producing more as they tried the new engine management.

Edited 6 July, 2020 by Roottoot

[vtxracer]

145 before the remap. 198-202 on a few runs after the remap. We tried pushing it to 220 fo one run. It was possible but i did not want to abuse the engine.

i think the engine you are referring to is the next gen 1.4 without the supercharger (some of them also had act). It could only be mapped to ~170 but still it was very quick even stock and very fuel efficient compared to the twincharger. 

My engine is just a detuned version of the cave and you could definitely feel it when stock. No power at all on high rpm ! 

[Ootohere]

@vtxracer

It was a Media / Press car, i knew they had Super unleaded in it and i put more in.

A 'twincharger'.

It went very well.

http://evo.co.uk/seat/ibiza/7142/seat-ibiza-fr-review

 

The Reg Number of the one in the picture is showing it as 1,197cc 

This was not the one i drove it was blue.

 

Edited 6 July, 2020 by Roottoot