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Help. Full beam headlights not working

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Thanks for that. However when i turn main beam on both main beam and dip beam turn off only leaving side lights

 

I wondering if it has the wrong head lights on it

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  • I've order a 2nd hand Stalk for £24. Just waiting for it to be delivered. Then I will decide if I will fit it or get a garage to do it 0   All depends on price as would need to buy some tool

  • UrbanPanzer
    UrbanPanzer

    yes the top cowl just clips off, carefully prize it apart at one side.   So if you do that, hopefully there will be a sticker with the number on it just on the top.

  • Breezy_Pete
    Breezy_Pete

    I would definitely advise looking at the part number on ones existing part before ordering anything, if it's visible just by popping off that top cowling.   There are still other part  numbe

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Me again, that 'fix' didn't last long, so of course I sprayed some more contact cleaner into the switch. Ahhhhh! the problem is even worse.

 

Now the full beam won't turn off!!

Comes on and stays on with the headlights in the dipped or full beam mode. Mess about with the stalk just turns it off temporarily.

With headlights off, the flash option (pulling against the spring) works correctly as before.

 

Wino and or UrbanPanzer I was wondering if the part number i'm after is 6R0 953 501 C  (which is what I pictured a few posts back) or was there another option like the 6R0 953 507 C which was mentioned . Is it right that which should be the same part in a different color? Perhaps if I have a few codes I might have a better chance of locating something soon.

 

I notice that the back of the steering assembly isn't the same as the one featured in the video posted by fawnrush, mine has no screw holes.  Would fitting still be essentially the same? Disconnect battery before removing air bag ?

 

 

  • Author

I would. As if you don't it could go off in your face

 

Found it easy to remove with a small dumpy flat head screwdriver. 

 

Took about 30 mins to change over if that

Did you Fawnrush did have any luck with yours? Those lose wires?

I'd like to put up a picture of what's behind the wheel, doesn't have the two screw holes, seems to have a couple of tabs.

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Sorry to hear that your fix hasn't lasted Fred66.

This page suggests that for at least Audis and VWs, your part number has been superseded by the  one ending 507C 9B9 together with an associated part 6R0959653.  That suggests to me that you can't just change to the 507C part without also changing (or adding?) the other bit.  All a bit 'out on a limb' to be honest.  Too tired to look into it any deeper this evening

 

Edited by Wino

Thanks wino, it's a complicated business. 

  • Author

Loose wires are for the headlamp adjustment motor.

 

My conclusion is the headlamps are wrong. As the power is there. Going to get either a H4 or double H7 

 

53 minutes ago, Fred66 said:

Then with the revised number

 

6R0953507C 9B9

 

this

 

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/spares-search?keyword=6R0953507C+9B9

 

 

neither of those numbers are listed in the IPC where I'm looking, it also lists 6Q0953513AN (which in itself is odd as Fabia stuff should be 5J*********

 

But..........your car has the number listed fitted as you took a photo of it.

 

also, those prices seem high to me, I paid less for my whole genuine cruise kit from a dealer which includes a new stalk set.

I personally would ring a skoda dealer who will use an upto date IPC and atleast give you the correct number and "may" even be cheaper.

Edited by UrbanPanzer

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8 hours ago, Fred66 said:

Thanks fawnrush,

With the code on the part 6R0 953 501 C  This comes up, will e mail them as they seem to offer quite a few for that part number

 

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/spares-search?keyword=6R0+953+501+C++

 

Looking at all the OEM numbers associated with each of those across both pages of results, the Metzger one near the bottom of the page 1 is the only one that claims equivalence with your exact 6R0953501C part number. They add it in bold in the part title too, uniquely amongst the whole selection.

That's not to say none of the others will work, but it's the one I'd be most confident of. Not currently in stock though. 

 

I'd get in touch with Mike here probably via the Facebook link offered, he'll have up to date catalogue info, and might do you a good deal on a genuine item https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/479022-genuine-parts-sponsormikes-back/?tab=comments#comment-5375418

He'll need your VIN or reg number so have one of those ready.

Thanks wino I'll contact Mike, and have another attempt with a different skoda dealer, in person this time.

 

Auto doc e mailed me with this morning saying this cheap valeo wasn't compatible,

 

Here

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/vemo/13855090

 

as you suspected,

 

they  linked me here,(below) saying this is the part, also

confirming it is out of stock. 

 

"These spares are out of stock. We have requested all our suppliers regarding their availability."

 

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/metzger/14548951

 

 

 

 

Perhaps the best bet is to clarify with the main dealer, what part you need. Unless you have or can remove your existing stuff to match to...

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Some pics from @Fred66 relating to steering wheel removal:

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20200803_155732.jpg

20200803_155735.jpg

Thanks wino ,

 

The first photo has what looks like a plastic rivet will I need to do anything with that ?

I was wondering if the second pic is what i need for removing air bag, there is a tab and what looks like a spring attached to it.

Presumably Press the tab toward the spring? Any insight would be appreciated. 

you just need a small 4-5 inch long flat screwdriver, you turn the wheel 90° each way then insert the screw driver and lever the spring, it does not need much, if you put a small pulling force on the side of the airbag you are attacking

you will feel it release, then rotate the other way and repeat.

 

Unplug carefully the electrical plugs and put the airbag to one side, just lay it face "UP".

 

The steering wheel is just a nut, just ensure your wheels are straight ahead before removing, may need a small "wack" from both palms from behind to pop it off the splines.

 

The stalk / switch assy is held by a metal clip with one allen key bolt, you just loosen the bolt and it slides of the column. The switch connector is one huge multi-plug with an integral lever to remove, you have to ensure the lever is fully up before the plug will release.

Thanks UrbanPanzer that doesn't sound too hard, Ignition off, the battery disconnected on the live terminal, then the above?

You don't think there could be any issues elsewhere by disconnecting the power? Something somewhere demanding a code I don't have, the microchip in the key no longer being recognised? 

 

Camberly Skoda quoted an hour and a half at 165 plus vat p/h, perhaps they include their lunch hour in that!

no issues, just disconnect battery earth lead "BEFORE" touching anything and do NOT reconnect until all back together.

 

If your prepared to pay that, fill it with fuel drive to my house I'll swap it in 20mins for nout.

Edited by UrbanPanzer

Earth lead first, leave the live connected throughout?  I try and do this myself, what could go wrong?, haha 😉

I have heard someone say connect earth, then live, then touch both (Not near the battery) To ground out any residual current. A little OTT but can't hurt. Otherwise, just the earth should suffice. (I think the touching of both cables is a method of wiping out any fault codes/errors on the dash as it drains any residual current left. It was stated as leave for ten mins).

  • Author

Hi All

 

Finally sorted the headlights. Ended up add an additional relay. 

 

Found someone had the same issue on another forum 

 

Now want to put new bulbs in.

 

Any suggestions on what's the best H7's at a reasonable price 

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  • Sponsor

Glad you found a fix, good initiative. 

I'd be wary of having both dipped- beam lights on one relay, as a single point failure leaves you in a bit of bother. No worries about same situation with full beam though.

 

For bulb recommendations you'll need to define your criterion/criteria for 'best'.  There's a big design tradeoff between brightness and life expectancy, so work out which of those matters more to you. Some people even get excited about them looking particular colours, so mention your level of 'GAF' on that aspect too.

☺️

  • Author

I would say brightness mainly as my son mainly works nights. 

Glad you have it sorted and are happy 👍.................still dont understand why the additional relay was needed though.........🤔

 

As far as bulbs, I use Phlips extreme vision, made a big difference but just as or more important is to get it on a beam setter and get them set right, especially if they are not original and the vehicle has been messed with.

Edited by UrbanPanzer

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