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Electric tailgate problem


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Hi Steve, the code is clearly visible with boot open and close to the start of the strut and is the first code starting with 3V9.  See attached image of mine.  OE code is the same apart from the last 3 characters but it was clear it should fit from the code.  Because you have a newer version of the car I wanted you to double check.   

20220501_110719[3194].jpg

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  • 5 months later...
On 17/05/2022 at 09:57, Nick_H said:

Maybe of use to someone but I've had both my struts replaced using my extended warranty in year 6. Would have cost over a grand apparently.

 

My car has now decided that opening the boot all the way is now all too much for it and either it works or it'll stop nearly all the way open with 3 beeps. Mine's 7 years old next year and frankly I am not spending £1K on the boot - I didn’t spot the link to the £200 odd struts. How much of a job is this? Easy for a complete novice? What tools would one need? 

Edited by g_tee
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Yeah £216 is the best price I’ve seen on eBay for a pair. Surely they are the same as what Skoda would be selling - so why the markup on Skoda sourced parts or is that a rhetorical question ?

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It's not even a reasonable profit. The general guide 18 months ago from Skoda was £700 a pair plus £300 for fitting and coding etc. I will have to bite the bullet and give the copy ones a go at some point.

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Hi guys, hope this helps. As mentioned already in this thread I bought my replacement struts on ebay for the same reasons stated. I spent around £240ish because those came with a two year guarantee.  It was installed by my local mechanic in under an hour and didn't seem complicated at all.  Connections are made within the top inner pillars of the boot.  Had no issues since and they also worked with the virtual peddle on my L&K.

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2 hours ago, Kevinmaj said:

Hi guys, hope this helps. As mentioned already in this thread I bought my replacement struts on ebay for the same reasons stated. I spent around £240ish because those came with a two year guarantee.  It was installed by my local mechanic in under an hour and didn't seem complicated at all.  Connections are made within the top inner pillars of the boot.  Had no issues since and they also worked with the virtual peddle on my L&K.

 

Good to know mine lasted about 6 years with maybe 4 or more activations a day as I plugged the camera into the rear 12v socket. I've chopped that down to maybe 4 a week so hopefully these will last !

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8 hours ago, g_tee said:

My boot is getting progressively worse so I ordered a pair yesterday and intend to fit them myself - it looks pretty simple

Really they should (and possibly will) need calibrating once replaced. You may get away without doing it but may not operate correctly. 

Just a warning 

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  • 10 months later...

Hi guys! I thought might be useful for someone if I share my experience with tailgate problem. My Superb is from 2017 it is a hatchback. Started to stop during opening few weeks ago and just became worse and worse. Until I was able to open it by manually. Using OBD11 I was able to find out that the opening procedure was cancelled because the lock. The lock itself has 3 sensors and one of that was giving wrong signal to the hatch. That stopped the procedure. Two of the three sensors are visible so obviously the third showed false reading. Spent some time to try to reach it and washed well spraying WD40 through it. I managed to remove some dirt and left it testing for a week before put the liner back. It is working since then, so problem solved for me. I hope it is useful, good luck gentleman!

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On 03/10/2023 at 06:13, PornOctavia said:

Hi guys! I thought might be useful for someone if I share my experience with tailgate problem. My Superb is from 2017 it is a hatchback. Started to stop during opening few weeks ago and just became worse and worse. Until I was able to open it by manually. Using OBD11 I was able to find out that the opening procedure was cancelled because the lock. The lock itself has 3 sensors and one of that was giving wrong signal to the hatch. That stopped the procedure. Two of the three sensors are visible so obviously the third showed false reading. Spent some time to try to reach it and washed well spraying WD40 through it. I managed to remove some dirt and left it testing for a week before put the liner back. It is working since then, so problem solved for me. I hope it is useful, good luck gentleman!

The elec tailgate on my 2014 Octavia won't open unless I force it, it opens a couple of inches but need to force it fully open and to close it, I was thinking it was the struts but I had it at the dealer the other day and they said it was a faulty micro switch which is a lot cheaper to repair than the struts. I haven't replaced the switch yet but hopefully their diagnoses is correct. Apparently the faulty micro switch is telling the controller that the tailgate is already open  when it is closed 

So before spending hundreds of $ on new struts check the micro switches.

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  • 2 months later...
On 02/10/2023 at 21:13, PornOctavia said:

Hi guys! I thought might be useful for someone if I share my experience with tailgate problem. My Superb is from 2017 it is a hatchback. Started to stop during opening few weeks ago and just became worse and worse. Until I was able to open it by manually. Using OBD11 I was able to find out that the opening procedure was cancelled because the lock. The lock itself has 3 sensors and one of that was giving wrong signal to the hatch. That stopped the procedure. Two of the three sensors are visible so obviously the third showed false reading. Spent some time to try to reach it and washed well spraying WD40 through it. I managed to remove some dirt and left it testing for a week before put the liner back. It is working since then, so problem solved for me. I hope it is useful, good luck gentleman!


This might have actually solved the issue with my Superb - 2017, hatchback.

 

I am very glad I came across your post! Thank you.

 

It all started with warning that the tailgate is open although it wasn’t.


Then the tailgate didn’t open after quick press of the button. I needed to hold it a bit and then it went all the way and beeped at the top position.

 

Then it didn’t want to close. It only went up. I had to close it manually. When opening (with a longer press) it only went up for 40cm.

 

I actually didn’t remove the inner trim when treating with the wd40 (it actually wasn’t the original wd, but the one from Lidl :)). I spritzed it through the latch lock. It didn’t work immediatelly. It needed a day or two.

 

BR

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  • 2 months later...

Hi,

Just thought I would share my experience on this issue with my 2016 L&K Superb. The boot would only open a small amount  and beep three times and stop. It had to be 'assisted' to open and close. I looked into this on the net and found a lot of issues are with broken wires where the wiring goes from the top of the strut into the body. I ran my cheapo OBD2 diagnostic and there were a couple of error codes for faulty motor and hall sensors but I didn't know which side was flagging the fault. 

I removed the trim on one side, unplugged the wiring and removed the strut. Low and behold one of the wires was about to break but wasn't actually broken, only the outer insulation. Taking out the other side there was a thin blue wire broken. I removed the strut from the car and there was only about 5mm of broken wire protruding from the strut itself. I think dismantling the strut is a major operation I didn't want to do. With some careful soldering I added in some thin flexible silicon coated wire and covered with heat shrink. I also repaired the other side as it looked like it was about the break. Reassembled it all and it works fine again,

 

I wonder how many struts have been replaced because of a broken wire in the loom. The wire is not very flexible and it broke on a very cold day. All in, about 30 mins work and almost zero cost.

HTH

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That's very interesting to know. I replaced mine with the cheapo Chinese ebay ones and they worked fine if a little noisier than the genuine ones. The garage gave me the old ones back so I'll have to have a look at the wiring and see if they are any breaks or bare wires. 

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On 07/10/2023 at 09:12, Andypug said:

The elec tailgate on my 2014 Octavia won't open unless I force it, it opens a couple of inches but need to force it fully open and to close it, I was thinking it was the struts but I had it at the dealer the other day and they said it was a faulty micro switch which is a lot cheaper to repair than the struts. I haven't replaced the switch yet but hopefully their diagnoses is correct. Apparently the faulty micro switch is telling the controller that the tailgate is already open  when it is closed 

So before spending hundreds of $ on new struts check the micro switches.

well after spending $400 on new micro switches the dealer told be it was the struts that needed replacing and that will be another $2000 thank you very much, I did find some gas struts that did fit but I gave up and traded in the car.

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On 16/05/2022 at 12:43, Welshbloke said:

HI Kev

Many thanks for the reply, very much appreciated. I will have a go at changing these. (Of note though I don't have the foot operated option on my Superb.) 

It is very frustrating that it has failed as its a 2019. I live in France (its a UK car) and getting a French SKODA dealer to look at it would be a challenge and expensive.

 

I'll do it myself.

 

Once again thanks to you Kev and also to the Community here on BRISKODA 

 

Regards

 

Steve

someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I was under the impression that even post brexit a manufactures warranty (as opposed to specific consumer law/legislation) was still valid in Europe even if the car was bought in the UK.

The only reference I've found without the aid of my morning caffeine is (from 13 Feb 2024)
https://www.carbuyer.co.uk/car-buying/138836/car-warranties-explained-whats-covered-in-a-new-or-used-car-warranty
 

 

If you’re thinking of picking up a bargain new car from overseas, be aware that manufacturers sometimes provide different warranties in different countries. On the subject of travel, rest assured that should your car go wrong while on holiday, warranties are valid within the EU – as long as you use an approved repairer. Many manufacturers also include free recovery within Europe as well.

Although that does say  "while on holiday" , rules may be different if domiciled in a European country.

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9 minutes ago, Winston_Woof said:

someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I was under the impression that even post brexit a manufactures warranty (as opposed to specific consumer law/legislation) was still valid in Europe even if the car was bought in the UK.

The only reference I've found without the aid of my morning caffeine is (from 13 Feb 2024)
https://www.carbuyer.co.uk/car-buying/138836/car-warranties-explained-whats-covered-in-a-new-or-used-car-warranty
 

 

If you’re thinking of picking up a bargain new car from overseas, be aware that manufacturers sometimes provide different warranties in different countries. On the subject of travel, rest assured that should your car go wrong while on holiday, warranties are valid within the EU – as long as you use an approved repairer. Many manufacturers also include free recovery within Europe as well.

Although that does say  "while on holiday" , rules may be different if domiciled in a European country.

Ah I wonder if there's a similar clause in the extended warranty T&Cs

https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/46df90c7-03bd-4018-be8d-a502e090781c


Travelling abroad within the first 2 years of your warranty In the event of warranty repairs being necessary when travelling abroad, any member of the ŠKODA Authorised Network in the country you are visiting will be able to carry out any rectification work under the terms of the warranty. They will require the vehicle information data details contained in the front of your vehicle's service schedule booklet to enable them to carry out the repairs. They will undertake the repairs free of charge.

Travelling abroad within the 3rd year of your warranty Should your ŠKODA suffer a manufacturing defect covered by the warranty within its 3rd year and before 60,000 miles while outside the United Kingdom, the repair must be carried out by a member of the ŠKODA Authorised Network in that country. The cost should be settled by you with the Repairer, and a claim made for reimbursement through your local member of the ŠKODA Authorised Network in the UK. In order for reimbursement to be possible the repair invoice must be returned to a UK Authorised Repairer within 14 calendar days of the invoice date.



ahh extended warranty (For policies with a start date between 1st January 2022 and 1st January 2024)

https://insurewithskoda.co.uk/media/1151/skoda_extended_warranty_cover_booklet_nav_0122.pdf

If you need to make a claim in Continental Europe, please contact us for authority prior to the commencement of any work to your vehicle on +44 1925 403548. If you are unable to contact us you may arrange for your vehicle to be repaired. Please contact us at the address below within 30 days of any repair and you will be advised if repairs completed are covered by your warranty. Please ensure that you retain a detailed repair invoice to support your claim. If your claim is covered you will be reimbursed in GBP at the prevailing exchange rate at the time of settlement. ŠKODA Extended Warranty, PO Box 869, Warrington, WA4 6LD.

Edited by Winston_Woof
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Law or no law unless they think they can take you for a lot of money or sell you a new vehicle you will just be met with a gallic shrug. They simply dont want or need the grief especially with a non French speaker.

 

That is probably what Welshbloke meant by a challenge and expensive.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi everyone,

 

Today I had an issue with my electric boot. On the first press of the button on the trunk it couldn't open the door for some reason. There was a click like the lock got unlocked but couldn't lift the trunk.

 

On the second button press it opened but the left arm (?) or strut (?) gave some crackling noise. I haven't noticed it before so I'm not sure if it started today or not, but now this crackling noise is there each time I open or close the trunk.

 

I suppose I'll have to replace these in the near future. I was googling for some time trying to figure out which part could fit. I have a 2018 Superb MKIII hatchback pre-facelift. The part number I found is 3V0827851. There is also an A and a B variant (3V0827851A3V0827851B). What is the difference? Which one should I choose?


Also, on Kevinmajs picture I can see a different part number starting with 3V9.

 

On 23/05/2022 at 15:11, Kevinmaj said:

Hi Steve, the code is clearly visible with boot open and close to the start of the strut and is the first code starting with 3V9.  See attached image of mine.  OE code is the same apart from the last 3 characters but it was clear it should fit from the code.  Because you have a newer version of the car I wanted you to double check.   

20220501_110719[3194].jpg

 

 

On Ebay I was trying to find parts with 3V0827851 and I found these two struts coming in pair which could be fit in my car:

 

2x GAS SPRING TAILGATE L=633 145 HUB POWERLIFT FOR ŠKODA SUPERB III

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304995251911

 

2x Gasfeder Elektrischer Heckklappe Powerlift für Skoda Superb 3 3V3 Schräghecka

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203632467306

 

Can someone confirm that one of these will fit? Or help me with any info on what to look for and where? As I read it here I'm better off with aftermarket parts.

 

Thanks!

Edited by enisz
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