Hi Everyone,

 

I've been actively looking at EGR delete kits and I just cannot figure it out for the life of me where they all fit around the back of the engine.

 

Darkside says one of their plates has to be fitted to the turbo and then the pipe or whatever can be left removed? But I can't see any port where that plate will go which has studs exept from the exhaust manifold (circled RED). In order places they say one of the plates goes on the exhaust manifold (circled RED) which makes sense but then what about the other end of that pipe (circled BLUE)? Do I keep the pipe fitted to both the block and manifold but sandwich the blaking plate on the manifold side?

 

What about the water circuit on the EGR cooler ? One advert gives me a part to connect the circuit to itself but on the diagram looks as though those water circuit pipes are at weird angles and theres no way the 90 degree connector will fit. 

 

Lastly, where in the hell does that gasket circled PURPLE go? It's in none of the first 2 diagrams.

 

It's making me lose my head lol. Only reason I want to fit it is because it saves on labour and the kit on ebay is cheap and I don't know if the garage I'm gonna choose to gut my DPF and remap knows how to block everything instead of just the pipe at the front of the engine. I want as many pipes/ports blocked without removing the cooler as that would be extra work/cost.

 

EGR delete kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183004251252?hash=item2a9be74474:g:6-EAAOSwcrJd9lXS

 

 

Why not just leave it as it is and have it tuned with everything in place. ?

 

If its easy to spot the fitted EGR delete kit, it will fail an MOT if the tester has anything about him.

The purple gasket and blanking plate is to block the coolant flow to the deleted EGR valve.

 

You have the rest of it right.

25 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

The purple gasket and blanking plate is to block the coolant flow to the deleted EGR valve.

 

You have the rest of it right.

That’s great thank you 

ive fitted the Blanking plates  but i can't get the EGR valve wiring plug disconnected so that i can run the Simulator  , any help to getting the plug off  tried most things  except breaking the plug which i don't want to do .

 

all help would be grateful  

 

 

5 minutes ago, thor749 said:

ive fitted the Blanking plates  but i can't get the EGR valve wiring plug disconnected so that i can run the Simulator  , any help to getting the plug off  tried most things  except breaking the plug which i don't want to do .

 

all help would be grateful  

 

 

 

Try pushing the plug on harder while squeezing the release tab then wiggle it off.

Sep's dead right about the vital 'push on' pressure, as there's a rubber seal inside that needs to be compressed before the latch is free to move. When it does move, there is a reasonably noticeable click noise, just discernible in the video.

I find that a flat blade in the gap shown, twisted gently to expand the gap slightly but not excessively is ideal for making the latch open without risk of breaking any plastic, once that 'push-on pressure' is present.

 

Access to achieve all of this will be your main issue, I suspect.

 

 

 

Access is a real problem, I could not even get my hand to the connector and had to take a leap of faith with a screwdriver, I was lucky that time and once since.

 

I removed the gearbox recently and after removing the battery tray and all the other bumpf from that area found that the connector was accessible, if ever I remove it again (for faultfinding) I wont push my luck & will remove the battery tray.

 

My DPF emulator cant be seen at all, everything is hidden from view under the intake trunking & the new connector & cable that go to the visible MAF sensor are identical to the OE one now connected to the black box underneath, an MOT/CT tester could find it but he would have to go looking and know what he was looking for and where to look.

If there are any straight-line tool paths, you can probably do it remotely with two long-handled screwdrivers. 

Once the one is inserted (but not yet twisted) in the gap shown in my vid, the 'push on pressure' could be exerted on the wiring-exit side of the connector with another screwdriver. Then - while maintaining the push-on pressure - the twisty action on the first could make the latch click.  I have a feeling that once you've heard the click, you can release both 'hands' and then pull the connector off without it re-latching.

 

The screwdrivers used could have whatever length handles necessary to get into clear space (if there is any!) for hands.

 

Can anyone confirm the 'not re-latching' bit of that from memory, or trying out? I have a feeling that I wasn't aware of that until recently, and it makes a big difference if true. Can't quite summon the energy to wander down the garden to refresh my memory. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 18 July, 20214 yr by Wino