As for the previous thick coolant i have opened a new topic:

 

Till now the factory design with the 2 hoses and the flap works perfect in city traffic,the @Thefeliciahacker was right that Felicia does not need too mush air. The fuel consumption is lowering (10,55 ltr or 22.29 US mpg yesterday) but i don't know how this combination will work in national highway or in mountain routes in high rpm.

ETA: 10.55 Liters per 100 km = 26.78 British MPG

 

You need to find out what the black sludge is, rubber o-ring or oil or what.

 

If you have not done full flushes before it could be just sh 1 t from before.

 

@Thefeliciahackerobviously has a lot of knowledge but he also believes only GL4 works in the gearbox and so far you have proved that is wrong IF yours is GL5.   I have nothing against @Thefeliciahacker and he knows more about cars and the Felicia than I would ever know but even experts can occasionally be wrong.

 

So you need to know what this black stuff is and where it comes from and when.

 

Edited 27 February, 20224 yr by nta16
ETA:

44 minutes ago, nta16 said:

So you need to know what this black stuff is and where it comes from and when.

 

See the photos plus the description to that topic.

 

I use Motul which covers the API GL-4, API GL-5 ,you have post the link few posts back

https://www.motul.com/gb/en/products/motylgear-75w90

I have about 22.000 Km with that gearbox oil.

19 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I use Motul which covers the API GL-4, API GL-5 ,you have post the link few posts back

Yes so that makes it a GL5!

 

 

19 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I have about 22.000 Km with that gearbox oil.

Given your present use, depending on how much hassle it is to do, I would change it about 3-5 years after the last time as generally there is a lot of residue old oil (and contaminants) left in the box particularly from cold quick drains than most expect and this dilutes the effectiveness of the oil change.

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Given your present use, depending on how much hassle it is to do, I would change it about 3-5 years after the last time

 

Skoda says for Felicia every 60.000 Km but for sure i won't wait till that point.

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Yes so that makes it a GL5!

 

Castrol, Motul, Liqui Molly, Mannol, FUCHS at 75W-90 give their products as GL-4 which can cover the GL-5

RED LINE 75W90 GL-4 only but has 28 euro per 946 ml bottle (!)

YUKO, Amsoil has 75W-90 GL-4 only

On 27/02/2022 at 17:17, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Skoda says for Felicia every 60.000 Km but for sure i won't wait till that point.

Is that normal use or serve use, how many years?

 

On 27/02/2022 at 17:17, D.FYLAKTOS said:

GL-4 which can cover the GL-5

No other way round, GL5 covers GL4, the fright for many was that old formulas of GL5 whilst considered OK for rear axles as they are lower temperatures the gearboxes would have the yellow metals stripped as they are at higher temperatures.  For many years some GL5s have been OK with yellow metals but car manufacturers are very careful about specification because many had commercials deals or when their products were new they may have need newer oils at that time but that time could now be many decades back and oils have changed since and what was new then is now decades old.  I know a little on this subject as I own the same "classic" car as many old people that can remember the oils of the 50s and 60s but not understand how oils have progressed since then.

 

https://www.oilspecifications.org/api_gos.php

 

Edited 4 March, 20224 yr by nta16
spelling

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

RED LINE 75W90 GL-4

This is often used and recommended by MG owners who are even older with even older cars from the 1940s and 1950s despite it being synthetic but because it is a GL4 and also suited to even older vehicles (GL 1, 3 and 4).

 

MT-90 (manual transmission - 90 weight (75W90)).

 

And because of this I know the Redline leaflet shows the weight numbers (e.g. 75) are a range so their (MTL) "... is a low 75W, almost a 70W, at very low temperatures and a high 80W, nearly an 85W ...".

 

And that even after only 5,000 miles the (manual) gearbox oils, including theirs, are not the same as good as when fresh new. -

"... petroleum multigrade motor oils and ATFs have very poor shear stability.  The shearing action by a manual transmission on thickeners is much worse than in an engine or automatic transmission.  Within 5,000 miles the thickeners can be rendered ineffective and the transmission will be operating on a much reduced level of protection, as shown in the graph below."

 

Where appropriate I have been trying to debunk this "you cannot use GL5" for a while but like many beliefs it is each to their own.

 

redline-mtl-redline-mt90.pdf

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

No other way round, GL5 covers GL4

 

Does not go always this way, for example DOT5 brake fluids MUST NOT used by DOT4 users although these can use the DOT5.1

7 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Does not go always this way, for example DOT5 brake fluids MUST NOT used by DOT4 users although these can use the DOT5.1

Yes I know but men are not always very logical.  Different specification systems, the API GL system is a straight time line, the DOT system is very illogical in its numbering.

 

And you will not believe this but I know of people who have just used DOT 5 after using DOT 3 or 4 without flush cleaning or replacing seals and someone who did not even know he had DOT 5 in his very old car and had been using DOT 3 until he fully emptied the system and saw a difference in colour as the fluids came out.  These different fluids were together for many years and the braking was fine and very old cars do not always have very good brakes or modern tyres to grip when braking and they really need to work best they can to be used on the roads with modern traffic.

 

Sometimes the dire warnings of using fluids are exaggerated but as your coolant and additives mixing has shown you can not always know if things will go well or not.

 

Using fluids that need changing every 18 or 24 months is totally ridiculous in the 21st century but for those that sell these fluids and make a profit on them why would they want to change things.  DOT 3, 4, 5.1 taking the paint off, sucking up moisture, needing frequent changing, even on modern cars, it is ridiculous.  So why would we not expect their numbering system to be ridiculous.

 

 

This is the end of the hose that feed hot air the air filter box.

 

 

 

From the factory was a cover above the exhaust manifold and while this was getting warm was send warm air to the box.

Since that cover was gone before 18+ year ago (they removed and never gave it back to me) i put the hose some cm lower, still has enough space to suck air (it's not visible by the photo).

 

According to the chart is look like this:

 

 

but here it the factory heat shield how is for real:

 

https://www.drive2.ru/l/1349135/

 

 

 

So you have bandaged you exhaust manifold then, this would be another modification away from factory standard.

 

Did that cover not also act as a heat shield then or was it just to gather heat for hot air to the filter box?

 

7 hours ago, nta16 said:

So you have bandaged you exhaust manifold then, this would be another modification away from factory standard.

 

Did that cover not also act as a heat shield then or was it just to gather heat for hot air to the filter box?

 

 

I have wrapped my exhaust manifold since 2003, few years back i replace the tape with quality titanium.

Yes i think it was protecting the air intake from the heat but one of my next projects is to install a new shield (to the air intake) from embossed aluminum with tremendous 500+ 'C heat resistance.

 

The fuel consumption for home to work today was 10,46 ltr or 22,49 mpg.

10.46 ltr per 100km = 27.01 UK mpg so getting better.

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I have wrapped my exhaust manifold since 2003

Again you see, this another non-factory stand modification along with the previous removal of the air intake valve and the remapping so three modified items - have anymore modifications from factory standard (ignoring the brace across the engine)?

 

I have no idea with your engine but on my old engine some do the same as it's a fashion/trend/what others do, and track cars and race cars do it.  But what is good for race and track cars is not always good for road cars used all year round in all conditions, in fact many thing could be detrimental.

 

I go to a a specialist that does machining work on heads, engines and engine building for old British cars including track and race, flow bench testing, he's literally written a book on powertuning one series of engine, and a second book on cylinder heads, he also has a 2wd rolling road.  Now the reason for telling you this, he is clever and humble enough to say he only knows what he knows and can easily still learn and be wrong, but IIRC for our old cast iron cylinder heads (on cast iron blocks) on road going cars he doubts how effective wrapping exhausts might be and that possibly some could lead to more heat remaining at the head.  Might be entity different for your engine's head.

 

We had an owner once with a old British car somewhere hot like Malaysia and he was doing all sorts of DIY testing on cooling system efficiency and how best to get rid of engine bay heat using cheap sensors and graph printout.  Getting heat away rather than moved to localised areas of cooling and siting vents to get heat out at all speeds got incredibly complicated and never fully resolved.  What you do in one area effects what happens in other areas.  Same with car tuning, it has to be in balance to be an overall improvement.

 

11 hours ago, nta16 said:

this another non-factory stand modification

 

Unfortunately it's a habit for us here to make modifications to our cars/motorcycles, the stock (original) we call it ''motherish'' (mother) which means ''it's as came from the factory" (from his mother).

Back those years there were no videos or internet forums so maybe we have done some mistakes maybe not.Wrapping the exhaust is a controversial thing but after 19 years i have learn to live with it, especially at summer is a ''savior" for the plastics of engine bay also reduces the temperature of the piece of floor which is beneath the pedals.

 

Yesterday night with cold and light rain so according to this: https://www.omnicalculator.com/conversion/fueld-economy-converter

i had one click better 10,42 ltr so it's 22.57 mpg (US) and 27.10 mpg (Uk)

I do not know but you might be better shielding the things you don't want to get too hot rather than insulating the exhaust manifold.

 

The fuel consumption sounds quite reasonable to me considering the drive.

 

8 hours ago, nta16 said:

I do not know but you might be better shielding the things you don't want to get too hot rather than insulating the exhaust manifold.

 

The fuel consumption sounds quite reasonable to me considering the drive.

 

 

My next project is to shield the air intake manifold and the side of the filter box but still is cold outside, i don't want to risk to catch a cold working in the side of the road.

 

Yesterday except the morning cold start i had another 2 and of course the last at night, except the 1st in ALL the other had the phenomenon of high rpm standing which means that i can not do anything to help the situation, maybe is VW's interfere at electronics when the car isn't completely cold.

With that ''cold start, move few blocks and park-cold start, move back home-cold start, go to work-cold start, return home" yesterday low speed moving i had fuel consumption 10.51 ltr or 26.87 Uk mpg, i don't know how but if i manage to have in normal city traffic (not hard) 9,9 ltr or 28.53 Uk mpg i would be extremely happy.

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

maybe is VW's interfere at electronics when the car isn't completely cold.

Or the programming you had done, or programming and a combination of your other modifications, or some or all of the modifications combined with VW's programming, or that the car is 21 years old and in serve driving conditions, or any permutation and combination of any above.

 

The thing is you are progressing from where you were before.

 

I have no idea if the 9,9 ltr or 28.53 UK mpg is ambitious or achievable, you will not not what is really good until this time next year when you have a year round's worth of information and recordings.

 

You should be pleased with the improvements so far, unless you have got something wrong you will see diminishing improvements, if any.

 

22 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I have no idea if the 9,9 ltr or 28.53 UK mpg is ambitious or achievable

 

I have seen those numbers for many years in a row but with old fashion way (liters of gas pump x 100 / Odometer km = fuel consumption) but the road conditions were much better and not so "restricted" as now.

Yes that's it things change, the petrol perhaps if you have E10 now and not before, higher fuel consumption with E10.

 

Before I was young and handsome now I am just handsome (and modest). 😁

 

21 hours ago, nta16 said:

 if you have E10 now and not before, higher fuel consumption with E10.

 

 

E10 petrol is cleared for use in all following Škoda vehicles with petrol engines with the following exception:
• Felicia 1.3 litre OHV (40kw and 50kW) engines used in Felicia models in the production years 1994 to 2001 and in car models before.

A retrofit option exists for these engines to make them compatible with the use of E10 petrol – owners are advised to consult their dealer.

 

https://www.acea.auto/files/E10_petrol_fuel-vehicle_compatibility_list-2021_update.pdf

 

Yesterday i use Heat resistance (till 200'C or 392 'F) aluminium tape to cover half of the hose that feeds hot air the air filter box ''just in case". Yesterday i had 10.54 ltr or 26.80 Uk mpg, with current traffic condition i don't thing i will get down from this point now at winter.

I was thinking of ethanol effecting the fuel consumption in a very small way rather than "'compatibility".  If you do not use E10 do you use E5 than as the (up to?) 5% ethanal IIRC give a small fraction more power and possibly a small fraction less fuel as compared to E0.  @roottoot will have more and better details.

 

Many with old cars over here run on E10 and use an additive.

 

 

 

In Greece, such a thing does not seem to happen, even immediately, because, among other things, there is strong suspicion.

 Where is the problem;  The fact that many vehicles in the country have engines that can not handle the doubling of the ethanol content, since it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere.  Result, minor damage to fuel pipes, tanks, burnt head flanges, damage to metals and plastics. Especially the models with year of manufacture before 2011 are not compatible with E10.

The numbers hide a hesitation in the market.  Making the reduction in Greece, if we take into account the age of the cars and the non-encouraging research numbers, then the introduction of E10 gasoline in the country is a very distant scenario.

 

https://autoagora.gr/news/data/cool-news/Poia-einai-h-Benzinh-E10-Giati-den-perpataei_210001.asp

 

(part of the text via Google translation).

 

On 26/02/2022 at 21:36, nta16 said:

obviously has a lot of knowledge but he also believes only GL4 works in the gearbox and so far you have proved that is wrong IF yours is GL5.   I have nothing against @Thefeliciahacker and he knows more about cars and the Felicia than I would ever know but even experts can occasionally be wrong.

yeah it's not that it works, it is just that the higher sulfur content will harm the brass synchros long term,
I honesly hope I am wrong because true gl4 oils are harder and harder to come by...

On 27/02/2022 at 19:17, D.FYLAKTOS said:

YUKO

its crap and russian...
I use valvoline

On 03/03/2022 at 19:39, D.FYLAKTOS said:

In Greece, such a thing does not seem to happen, even immediately, because, among other things, there is strong suspicion.

 Where is the problem;  The fact that many vehicles in the country have engines that can not handle the doubling of the ethanol content, since it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere.  Result, minor damage to fuel pipes, tanks, burnt head flanges, damage to metals and plastics. Especially the models with year of manufacture before 2011 are not compatible with E10.

The numbers hide a hesitation in the market.  Making the reduction in Greece, if we take into account the age of the cars and the non-encouraging research numbers, then the introduction of E10 gasoline in the country is a very distant scenario.

 

do we have e10 in greece?