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Sound deadening project

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I have zero noise on either of the front doors. In addition to the foam on the door card, I would also strongly suggest to wrap the door handle cable into something soft.

Here is the picture of my door before final installation.

image.thumb.jpeg.a737668c58f0a231d2c049f42710d522.jpeg

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42 minutes ago, TheUltraRunner said:

I have zero noise on either of the front doors. In addition to the foam on the door card, I would also strongly suggest to wrap the door handle cable into something soft.

Here is the picture of my door before final installation.

image.thumb.jpeg.a737668c58f0a231d2c049f42710d522.jpeg

 

Thank you! Is the door cable not already wrapped in something soft?

Do you think its the door cable which makes this noise cause its hitting while pushing?

17 hours ago, Lukas_2611 said:

Do you think its the door cable which makes this noise cause its hitting while pushing?

Ohh you are correct. The cable is already sleeved.

I guess your best option is to add the foam to the door card. Or at least add some foam to the area of the sound and where the cable meets the metal.

image.thumb.jpeg.8de2c57b27aa0ebb1508f5372bf0dca7.jpeg

My personal guess at this point is that the door cable hits the door card. On the door card are some black melting points with sharp edges from putting it together.

 

So the sound could be the foam from the door cable hitting the plastic. I will try and see if putting some foam in this area of the door card will solve it.

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...

@TheUltraRunner

 

I have tried to put some tape behind the door cable, didnt work. While pushing the crackling noise is still there like in the video. I think only a complete sound deadening with alubutyl and foam everywhere can eventuelly solve it. As this is only while pushing I will do it later.

 

In the meanwhile I have recognized another clicking noise while driving on bumpy roads on driver side. Its like a short click an doesnt come always.

 

You mentioned in another thread that you had a noise from this crash clip and solvef it. How did the rattle sounded in your case?

 

In my case it is somehwere in the door area. Maybe the window regulator trim or this crash clip.

The crash clip was vibrating when listening to the radio. Even at mid volume. I think it didn't vibrate while only driving and not listening to any music. 

  • 2 months later...

Guys, what area of the car would you say reduced the cabin noise the most? The noise that bugs me most the the road noise on rougher asphalt surfaces. The constant roar that blocks out a lot of the music frequencies while you're driving.

Edited by mccririck

  • 3 months later...
On 29/03/2024 at 18:24, Lukas_2611 said:

Hi guys!

 

It looks like here are some sound deadening pros 🙂 I hope you can help me. I have noticed a strange noise while pushing on my front door card.

 

Does somebody know how i can get this quiet and fixed?

 

My O4 is quite new, actually a 2024 modell, first owner with 59km on it, but its already making noises.. I made a video and uploaded it on youtube.. maybe someone can help me..

 

 

 

i have solved this problem by spraying silicone spray all the way above the silver trim. There is a little gap where you can spray in.. it worked great.. the noise is gone since months..

 

So maybe this helps other people..

 

Now my roof console (the console with interior light and sunglasstorage) is cracking on rougher roads...didnt find a solution yet but i am investigating..

 

 

Maybe somebody with the same problem here?

20240926_182737.jpg

  • 3 months later...

I have totally the same problem with my roof central console and alu trims on the doors...
If you have solution for roof console - would be great if you post it, thanks!

 

Additionally had crazy noizes from armrest, if it is expanded to maximum length. It is already fixed, but I was wondered it can be so damaged in 4 years old car... In some places plastic was cracked and mechanism had huge gaps

  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/02/2025 at 21:48, archi332 said:

I have totally the same problem with my roof central console and alu trims on the doors...
If you have solution for roof console - would be great if you post it, thanks!

 

I posted my solution in this thread 🙂

On 11/02/2025 at 21:51, archi332 said:

Additionally had crazy noizes from armrest, if it is expanded to maximum length. It is already fixed, but I was wondered it can be so damaged in 4 years old car... In some places plastic was cracked and mechanism had huge gaps

How did you fix your armrest? :)

On 25/02/2025 at 18:26, Lukas_2611 said:

I posted my solution in this thread 🙂

How did you fix your armrest? :)

Unfortunately don't have any photos, I was in a rush because leak of time before the trip, but could not live with this noise anymore 😅
The hardest part for me - was to start disassembling. You should start from the top leather cover, it has a bunch of connections. After everything was disassembled - some glue, welding to fix cracks and cover all touch points with anti creak tape
 

Not sure it was helpful, but if you want, we can continue in a more detailed way 🙂

8 minutes ago, archi332 said:

Not sure it was helpful, but if you want, we can continue in a more detailed way 🙂

Yeah please :) 

2 hours ago, archi332 said:

Not sure it was helpful, but if you want, we can continue in a more detailed way 🙂

First Question is how did you dissamble the top leather cover of the armrest!

  • 7 months later...
On 23/10/2022 at 21:06, Felix2021 said:

Both door handles and windows button modules done. Now it's dead quite, better than in CLA Merc :)

20221023_181834.jpg

 

Tape is on almost all edges, as well as latches, clips etc. So basically everything, that directly touches the doorcard plastic.

Also some tape on the door card:

image.png

 

Highly recommended "mod", as it fixes one of the biggest issues with O4 (and all Skoda's) trim.

Hope it will not start "squeecking" again :)

Will doo rear doors (maybe even worse than front) when i will be dampening them, so in few weeks probably.

Hello there!

I am trying to get my door handles quiet cause they make noise..

on the picture i cant really see where to put the tape..

please can you help me?

  • 1 year later...
On 18/10/2022 at 22:01, Felix2021 said:

Ok, so first step been completed.

Front side windows replaced. If anyone is interested, part numbers are:

5E3845022 (right side)

5E3845021 (left side)

Nothing else needs replacement, seals are the same. In Poland i have paid 865 PLN per windows, so roughly 180€ in dealership. Tried to find used windows, but only found them in Sweden. It made no sense, as price (with shipping) was just 20€ lower, than new ones.

Replacement is rather easy, once door card is removed.

 

image.thumb.png.d0c8bd0573cb006a00f393fc76e2e478.png

 

1. Remove 2 plastic caps marked in green.

2. Lower your window, so that you can see holes/openings in the glass.

3. Use screwdriver or something similar to push plastic windows latches, that you can see through hole in the glass (sorry, haven taken pictures of this part). Push gently, but rather deep. At the same time try to move the glass up. Once it's release, you can remove it. 

4. Release straps holding wiring (yellow marks). Do not cut them, as those are not regular straps you can replace with anything!

5. Take off plug marked in red. Disconnect all plugs.

6. Remove 2 torx screws in point marked in red.

7. Rotate green "screws" by 90 degrees counter-clockwise.

Now you can remove whole window lift part, gaining access to inside of the door if you wish to use the mats there. If not, you can skip points from 4 to 7.

Assemble everything in reverse order.

That's it.

One note - after this, you will need a diagnostic interface to clear airbag error. Round part with yellow plug is impact sensor.

 

I have used the mats in the doors, on speaker frame and on the midrange driver mounting place on the door card. Mat is 3mm thick.

Also used accoustic foam (self-adhesive) on the door cards.

 

Now door and window feels much more sturdy. Sounds completely different when you knock on it/hit it. Also give very satisfying closing sound.

Inside you can hear less noise from passing cars, but it's still present. I was surprised, that it has also reduced a bit tyre noise and suspension sounds. In general improvement is quite good, at least up to 100-120 kph. At 140 kph difference seems to be little bit lower, as tyre noise is dominating. I guess will need to also do wheel arches, and maybe part of the floor.

Also one can still hear windo noise from the windscreen. Not replacing it yet :)

Please remember, that i did all at once, so i cannot really say what would be the effect on replacing windows only, without dampening the doors.

 

Dampening the doors has improved audio significantly. It still lacks lower bass, but at least now bass much better controlled, more punchy. Sounds much better in general. Now i have to do a rear door :)

 

Edit:

One more photo - inside of the door. Haven't used the mats on reinforcement, as i don't think it resonates that much, and didn't want to add more weight to the door. They are heavy already now :)

20221016_152145.thumb.jpg.f8cd523014bee1dfcfaa98329faca700.jpg

 

@Felix2021

On 19/10/2022 at 16:22, Felix2021 said:

Go for it, it's easier than it looks at first glance :)

Mats inside of the door are better solution + it helps to improve audio.

Thanks for sharing this retrofit.

I’m planning to do the same upgrade on my Octavia Combi RS Mk4 Facelift.

You mentioned that you replaced the front side windows with:

  • 5E3845021 – left

  • 5E3845022 – right

Do you happen to remember the part numbers of the original standard glass that you removed?

Were they:

  • 5E3845201 – left

  • 5E3845202 – right

I’d like to confirm the exact standard-glass to acoustic-glass part number change before ordering.

Thanks!

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