Hello,

 

I needed your help.

I just had a problem with the alternator, it doesn't seem to get the 13v/14v ...

I already have a new battery, after that I put a new alternator regulator as shown in the picture, the one on the left is the new one.

 

 

Installed on Alternator

 

 

Then I turned the machine on, and it turned on super fine, but the battery kept at 12.20v, it was like 5/10 min at 12.20v, then it went down to 12.19v another 5min, then I turned the machine off.

I find it strange that it doesn't give the 13/14v (more the 14v than the 13v).

I also found it strange that it could last a long time on and only drop 1v, after about 10min or so.

I wonder if the alternator really screamed ?

 

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

The new regulator appears to have a different number on it, UR-MP134 (instead of UR-MP135) I have no idea if that makes any difference whatsoever though.

 

I have found many modern made electric parts to be crap straight of the box so do you know that this part is actually working as it should - the dent in the casing does not inspire confidence (unless you put that there).

 

Very old original NOS (new old stock) electrical parts may often be of good manufacture but more recent (going back 20 years in the case of Lucas) parts can be poorly made even if NOS.

    

Edited 23 September, 20223 yr by nta16
Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

You did release the carbon brushes as you installed the new regulator?

 

if you did, my next suspicion would be a breakage or bad contact of that green wire.

27 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

The new regulator appears to have a different number on it, UR-MP134 (instead of UR-MP135) I have no idea if that makes any difference whatsoever though.

 

I have found many modern made electric parts to be crap straight of the box so do you know that this part is actually working as it should - the dent in the casing does not inspire confidence (unless you put that there).

 

Very old original NOS (new old stock) electrical parts may often be of good manufacture but more recent (going back 20 years in the case of Lucas) parts can be poorly made even if NOS.

    

 

Yes, I believe this too, that in the old days they manufactured things to last for years and years.

 

18 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

You did release the carbon brushes as you installed the new regulator?

 

if you did, my next suspicion would be a breakage or bad contact of that green wire.

 

Yes, I loosened the carbon brushes when installing the new regulator.

I can give this green and red wire from the alternator feed a clean.

This alternator is only 5 years old :s

 

------

 

It is strange that in 10 minutes on, it drops only 1v. Right?

Measure voltage directly at the alternator with engine running. Red meter probe on output connection, black meter probe on alternator body.

 

15 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Measure voltage directly at the alternator with engine running. Red meter probe on output connection, black meter probe on alternator body.

 

 

Hmm I will test.

How much does it have to be around ?

I tested it.

Battery without running the car gives the 12.5v.
I start the car, it gives 12.20v/12.19v.
I tested with the red probe on the red cable of the alternator and with the black probe on the alternator housing, and it was 12.15v/12.20v.
I turned on the high beam headlights with the car running and it went down to 12.05v ...

Funny thing is, the voltage regulator is new, and even with it gone, without being connected to the alternator, I start the car and the voltage stays the same 12.2v.

 

And with it connected it stays the same. Whether it's not connected or disconnected, it gives the same voltage.

Alternator is not starting up. Check that green wire, it is probably not giving the alternator the 'wake up' current it needs.

Hmm.. thanks for the answer... but how can I test the green wire ? if there is signal ? I will also give a sandpaper the pin of this green wire.

Disconnect it, turn ignition on, measure voltage at end of wire relative to alternator body/battery negative.

19 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Disconnect it, turn ignition on, measure voltage at end of wire relative to alternator body/battery negative.

 

Alright, I'll put positive on the wire green, and negative on the battery to check voltage.

 

One thing I find strange, is the battery light that I don't think comes on when I ignition on (not start the motor)

Only show "Park and Oil" I think. I'll check it again

 

What could it be, if the battery light does not appear?

 

If that light doesn't come on with ignition, that is further evidence of a problem with the alternator excitation circuit. 

 

Search for posts where @RicardoM or others have given info about this circuit.

I don't have any wiring diagrams for Felicia, unfortunately. 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

You might also want to check that the battery light bulb actually works.

 

See item 2 in following post.

 

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/318765-97-skoda-felicia-battery-light-issue/?tab=comments#comment-3940352

 

Edited 24 September, 20223 yr by nta16

@Joob @Breezy_Pete @nta16 - This makes sense to me now. I know that a 1998 Octavia 1 has alternator control wires, but wasn't previously aware that a Felicia even might have them at that age. Certainly a battery light not illuminating at ignition on is usually diagnostic of a loose, broken or corroded control wire.

I just tested the green cable, put the red end on it and the black end on the negative and it gave 12.2v and the battery gives me 12.40v. bbbrrr

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

9 minutes ago, Joob said:

I just tested the green cable, put the red end on it and the black end on the negative and it gave 12.2v and the battery gives me 12.40v. bbbrrr

Did you try the "disconnect D+ cable at alternator that goes to dashboard (green wire usually) and connect it to earth" test and see if the battery warning light was on?

 

Edited 24 September, 20223 yr by nta16

@KenONeill I'm only used to the old alternator where if the 'IGN' bulb was blown the alternator wouldn't charge, my car was only months young enough not to have a dynamo.

 

 

15 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Did you try the "disconnect D+ cable at alternator that goes to dashboard (green wire usually) and connect it to earth" test and see if the battery warning light was on?

 

Oh, not that, just with a multimeter, but I will do this test.  I'll put a cable on the green wire and touch it to ground. Tomorrow I'll tell you how it went.

 

If this happens, what could it be?

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

You might also want to check that the battery light bulb actually works.

 

See item 2 in following post.

 

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/318765-97-skoda-felicia-battery-light-issue/?tab=comments#comment-3940352

 

 

alternator warning lamp does not come on when ignition is switched on

prerequisites:

- battery OK

- good earth of alternator case and battery minus

disconnect D+ cable at alternator that goes to dashboard (green wire usually) and connect it to earth.

if warning lamp does not come on, wiring to dashboard or warning lamp are faulty.

if warning lamp comes on, remove voltage regulator and inspect carbon brushes (minimum 5-6 mm)

if brushes OK, the alternator is faulty.

if brushes not OK, the voltage regulator is faulty.

 

 

I'll test tomorrow 👌

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

ETA: you posted with the info whilst I was finding and checking the link worked again. 😄

 

Well that alone would be blown [ blown, wrong word to use ] bulb, bad connection(s) or wiring. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/318765-97-skoda-felicia-battery-light-issue/?tab=comments#comment-3940352

 

If nothing else you want the warning light working or you have no warning light, to, er, work from or off.

 

 

Edited 25 September, 20223 yr by nta16
ETA: blown, wrong word to use

Yes 😋 I had seen that info on your link ty

 

If the warning light is damaged, it no longer reads with the alternator, right? And even then it lets the 12v pass through the green cable ?

1 hour ago, Joob said:

I just tested the green cable, put the red end on it and the black end on the negative and it gave 12.2v and the battery gives me 12.40v. bbbrrr

 

That suggests that the green wire is fine and the new regulator does not work. Or there is high resistance on the cable and voltage drops once it's connected...

 

53 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I'm only used to the old alternator where if the 'IGN' bulb was blown the alternator wouldn't charge, my car was only months young enough not to have a dynamo.

 

Felicia should charge even with a blown bulb. There's a resistor paralel to bulb, which leads current to the regulator.

6 hours ago, Papez said:

Felicia should charge even with a blown bulb.

I'd expect that prior to control wires. I've never experienced a "blown bulb" on a car with control wires.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

10 hours ago, Papez said:

Felicia should charge even with a blown bulb. There's a resistor paralel to bulb, which leads current to the regulator.

Yes sorry I didn't mean to suggest that, my aside was to Ken about older cars and back to dynamo 

 

 

4 hours ago, KenONeill said:

I'd expect that prior to control wires. I've never experienced a "blown bulb" on a car with control wires.

Yeah sorry, my mind was slipping back to an earlier time, blown was a bad choice of word (perhaps bad would have been better) I was just try to suggest checking what might be causing the bulb not to light to eliminate it and also that it's best to have the warning light working as a warning.  I was very tired and trying to find the link I'd found before.