I've done a bit of research into it, and I've done a lot of practical testing...

but first, the 59Ah battery---> you won't find that at any reputable after-sales service center; 98% of the time, it's exclusive OEM product data. Regarding coding a new battery, your described situation doesn't require coding in my opinion. However, I would program anything over 10Ah into the system.

Should a type change occur, such as from an EFB to an AGM or something else, I would program the system. Because the AGM, for example, has a different "idle" voltage.

I myself have also driven a standard lead-acid battery with a start-stop vehicle for weeks without any problems.

Thanks both for your reply. I am going to hunt local groups for someone who can do it privately, if not head to a garage and just make sure to check their entries.

I will fit the new battery tomorrow, do the actions suggested by nta16 and then see.

If I wanted to get something to code it myself, what kit would you recommend? I was looking at OBDeleven, but its over 100eur for the dongle + subscription to code. Then I found a Vgate iCar which is significantly cheaper, and free / paid apps. hoping I can find someone local who has one!

I saw another member suggest another very low priced App but I can't find it now. Anyone with a reasonable level scan tool with the appropriate programs for your model and (part) year should be able to 'code' the battery for you (they may cost more than €100 though), built-in program without the need to buy tokens or pay extra.

As I put if you can you also want an error report before 'coding' and deleting any error codes and another report after than to see what didn't clear if anything, this after a little drive if possible. None of this takes much time at all (depending on how far you go for the drive).

Check anyone's 'coding' we can all make mistakes, just that a DIYer will often take more care than a paid professional - electricians, plumbers and mechanics are probably the laziest tradesmen in my experience in this country, unfortunately we don't get many women doing these jobs here or they would be a better choice.

Good luck let us know how you get on.

19 hours ago, nta16 said:

Good luck let us know how you get on.

I fit the battery this morning, no hassle. All the lights came up after turning it on, but after the left to right trick they all cleared except a check engine light. Went for a brief drive, turned off and on again - all lights cleared!

Yesterday I also joined a local Škoda owners page FB group, and a member kindly offered use of their VCDS so I drove out this afternoon and it took under 5 mins to check my system, clear codes, and then code in the new battery just changing the serial by 1 digit and the Ah from 59 to 60. He didn't even accept the beer, so now I have a fixed car and a 6 pack! (of beer ha!)

thanks again for your help and advice - I'm sure it saved me both time and money.

You shouldn't need one for a while but if you haven't got one consider getting an appropriate battery charger maintainer and read and follow the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for the charger maintainer. Best to when required fully charge the battery as a preventative matter rather than when the battery is in a too low state of charge for the computers. The stop/start not operating when it should is generally the first sign of the battery in a low state of charge if the normal driving of the car doesn't recharge the battery to prevent the drop soon again then put the battery charger maintainer on for as long and/or many times as required to get the battery to full. That way this new battery should last many years beyond what those that sell car batteries would like.

Good luck, thanks for reporting back.

Edited 12 August, 202512 Aug by nta16