HI all, 

And thanks for help on other forums. Newbie here. Skoda Fabia 2011

 

Just was across from the church at the market (just in time for Christams services to be in). 

 

Opened boot with key fob, put in bags, closed boot.

Used fob to open door, got in, put key in ignition, strted engine. 

Alarm goes off and will not stop.

 

Turn off engine, start engine. Alarm wevery 15 seconds (cycling).

Tried pressing fob buttons. Alarm still going. 

-A helpful guy said get out, lock the car with key, then unlock. no dice. (at this point I am upsetitng the whole village).

 

Tried many times turning lock with actual key, on, off locked, unlocked. Nothing.

Decided to just drive home. Alarms all the way. 

Go home, turned off engine. Still going.

Got out. (Slammed the heck out of the door). then, out of frustration inserted the key and turned as if to lock it, and just held it there for like 15 secs. Alarm stopped.

 

Remembered my groceries in boot (argh). Used fob, got groceries, closed boot. Locked with fob. All good (praying). Still thankfully, no alarm.

 

Any ideas? Did I mess up by unlocking the boot then pressing again for the door at the first instance? Perhaps hit a fob button while starting the engine? 

 

DO you think holding the key to the left while locking actually stopped it? 

 

BIG QUESTION: should this happen again, how on earth can I make it stop? Disconnect the battery? 

I read the manual - pretty useless. I pressed the unlock many times while in the car and nothing happen to stop the alarm.

 

Thanks all around folks. My nerves are gone tonight. 

 

 

Edited 18 December, 20223 yr by mlbSK2011

Try opening the bonnet and closing again.

Try the button on the door pillar and turn off the alarm as you would if an animal / person is locked in the car or the car is on a transporter / ferry.

 

Someone will be along that can help hopefully.    Wiring / shorting issue.

 

The Alarm Battery might be on its last legs or corrosion.

They are shown as a 5 year Service replacement item, that is the complete siren.  Many last 10 years or more, yours has maybe lasted as long as it will, 

what a shame it still sounds though.

Hi mate, thank you for this. It's so far still quiet I will test again tomorrow God willing it's remaining quiet. 

 

I know there's another minor electrical problem I am due to have repaired on 5th Jan. Hopefully it'll keep til then. 

 

My heart sank cause I just bought this used, and the guy seemed ok, but I wonder if there were known issues... BUT, this has all happened after about 2 months so... who knows?

 

 Thanks again. 

 

PS. I just couldn't figure if me hold that key in the driver door turned to the left for that long time actually did something...

IS it possible to remove a fuse to make it qui? Or I am reading correctly the thing has it's own battery?? 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

You thrown a curve ball in by saying you have another minor electrical problem because that might be relevant.

 

Without that I'd start with batteries, the car 12v battery wants to be in a good state of charge and the battery(s) in your remote control(s) need to be good, check these batteries.

 

Personally as it's no cost, quick and easy (and no dirt on the hands) I would synchronise of the remote control(s) whether I changed the battery(s) or not in case one of the VW computer programs has got it's knickers in a twist.  The Owner's Manual isn't plaain English on this (no surprise really) to synchronise you push any button on the remote and then within one minute unlock the door using the keyblade, not exactly hard work to try.  

 

The stupid car thinks you are are trying to steal it but it should have been OK as long as you got the keyblade in the ignition lock and switch the ignition on within 15 seconds after opening the door.

 

If you have let your car 12v battery run down then this might not help with the alarm but it might be your alarm battery, cheaper and easier to try is as I've put.

 

Have a look in your Owner's Manual  for fuse allocation - but don't dismiss your car 12v car battery being low just because it starts and the lights seem bright enough especially if yours is a stop/start model, this summer's extreme heat of 30c and 40c wasn't good for batteries or charging systems and if issues haven't already shown they could well now the cold is here.

 

Of course the other minor electrical issue might relate to your alarm issue or be separate or both possibly be related to the battery(ies) - what is this other minor electrical issue?

 

Edited 18 December, 20223 yr by nta16

.

Edited 18 December, 20223 yr by mlbSK2011

11 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

You thrown a curve ball in by saying you have another minor electrical problem because that might be relevant.

 

Without that I'd start with batteries, the car 12v battery wants to be in a good state of charge and the battery(s) in your remote control(s) need to be good, check these batteries.

 

Personally as it's no cost, quick and easy (and no dirt on the hands) I would synchronise of the remote control(s) whether I changed the battery(s) or not in case one of the VW computer programs has got it's knickers in a twist.  The Owner's Manual isn't plaain English on this (no surprise really) to synchronise you push any button on the remote and then within one minute unlock the door using the keyblade, not exactly hard work to try.  

 

The stupid car thinks you are are trying to steal it but it should have been OK as long as you got the keyblade in the ignition lock and switch the ignition on within 15 seconds after opening the door.

 

If you have let your car 12v battery run down then this might not help with the alarm but it might be your alarm battery, cheaper and easier to try is as I've put.

 

Have a look in your Owner's Manual  for fuse allocation - but don't dismiss your car 12v car battery being low just because it starts and the lights seem bright enough especially if yours is a stop/start model, this summer's extreme heat of 30c and 40c wasn't good for batteries or charging systems and if issues haven't already shown they could well now the cold is here.

 

Of course the other minor electrical issue might relate to your alarm issue or be separate or both possibly be related to the battery(ies) - what is this other minor electrical issue?

 

Sorry I just figured out how to quote a post:

 

Hi Nta16 - thanks for all that will try. 

 

You know - it keeps coming back to that battery, I think tomorrow I'll just go ghet a new one. It's a used car - cannot hurt. 

 

The other electrical problem - the extreme cold last week got the power steering real tight, and the power sterring light came on. Took it to the shop and they said it's safe to drive but an electrical switch that needs replacing. I didn't ask what kind of switch, whether it is for the whole car or just the power sterring - this may be the issue.

 

This garage is highly reputable around here and recommended by several trusted neighbours - they just don't have openings until 5 January. I've got to make it 'til then...

 

After I bought it I noticed the mirror adjuster switch does not work for the passenger side, nor the passenger door window work. (I can lower the passenger from the driver side). 

 

It all points electrical. 

 

The car wasn't treated too nicely by the former owner, which is sad because it's a nice car, and I like it. 

Thank you again , any further suggestion most welcome...

 

(Ps. if I remove the fuse to the alarm system will it make th thing go quiet if I'm in a public place again?  That was just awful. )

2 hours ago, toot said:

Try opening the bonnet and closing again.

Try the button on the door pillar and turn off the alarm as you would if an animal / person is locked in the car or the car is on a transporter / ferry.

 

Someone will be along that can help hopefully.    Wiring / shorting issue.

 

The Alarm Battery might be on its last legs or corrosion.

They are shown as a 5 year Service replacement item, that is the complete siren.  Many last 10 years or more, yours has maybe lasted as long as it will, 

what a shame it still sounds though.

Hi mate, thank you for this. It's so far still quiet I will test again tomorrow God willing it's remaining quiet. 

 

I know there's another minor electrical problem I am due to have repaired on 5th Jan. Hopefully it'll keep til then. 

 

My heart sank cause I just bought this used, and the guy seemed ok, but I wonder if there were known issues... BUT, this has all happened after about 2 months so... who knows?

 

 Thanks again. 

 

PS. I just couldn't figure if me hold that key in the driver door turned to the left for that long time actually did something...

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Car 12v batteries are probably the most oversold car part, the RAC seem to try to sell you one if you have a flat tyre.  I'm big on where appropriate battery charger recharging rather than just hoping just driving will do the trick but better still where appropriate preventative battery charger charging.

 

But in your case I think replacing the battery for new is a good measure given the history of the car.  If your car is electric power steering then that will be affected by a battery in low state of charge.  As the extreme heat isn't good for the battery neither is the extreme cold.  I've no idea if the steering also has a switch issue but a battery in good state of health and charge will help rather than hinder electric power steering.

 

Passenger side items might be wires or connectors or other but a good battery in a good state of health and charge with help rather than hinder.

 

I'm not sure what the fuse actually controls, good on you for consulting the the Owner's Manual but unfortunately these are not as good as they could or should be, my wife's gives an incorrect diagram and I've seen others here put the fuses aren't as straight forwardly labelled as they should be.  I'd not advise you to remove the alarm fuse for insurance reasons, instead synchronise the remotes and as soon as possible/convenient replace the batteries and synchronise the remotes again, it's seconds of light work.

 

Now if you have a stop/start car that will have a stop/start battery and we enter a quick world of more fun.

 

On your details you can enter more about the model of your car, see mine for example, a diesel will normally have a 'bigger' battery than a petrol for example.

 

 

 

 

12 hours ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Car 12v batteries are probably the most oversold car part, the RAC seem to try to sell you one if you have a flat tyre.  I'm big on where appropriate battery charger recharging rather than just hoping just driving will do the trick but better still where appropriate preventative battery charger charging.

 

But in your case I think replacing the battery for new is a good measure given the history of the car.  If your car is electric power steering then that will be affected by a battery in low state of charge.  As the extreme heat isn't good for the battery neither is the extreme cold.  I've no idea if the steering also has a switch issue but a battery in good state of health and charge will help rather than hinder electric power steering.

 

Passenger side items might be wires or connectors or other but a good battery in a good state of health and charge with help rather than hinder.

 

I'm not sure what the fuse actually controls, good on you for consulting the the Owner's Manual but unfortunately these are not as good as they could or should be, my wife's gives an incorrect diagram and I've seen others here put the fuses aren't as straight forwardly labelled as they should be.  I'd not advise you to remove the alarm fuse for insurance reasons, instead synchronise the remotes and as soon as possible/convenient replace the batteries and synchronise the remotes again, it's seconds of light work.

 

Now if you have a stop/start car that will have a stop/start battery and we enter a quick world of more fun.

 

On your details you can enter more about the model of your car, see mine for example, a diesel will normally have a 'bigger' battery than a petrol for example.

 

 

 

 

Thank you very kindly for this. I booked a good-ole Halford's to come replace the battery and few other things. (I am quite handy and capable but just need to limit the stress here). You are one of several who have pointed to this so here's hopin' and praying! 

 

I've got a slight disability that the siren just hammers me - am almost a mind to just clip the wires to the thing. It's an older car, I never leave anything of value in it, and it's not insured for anything except for Third Party.

 

I'm going to also do the synchronise - will let you know. 

I did find what seems to be a good link for fuses in general, and has a great diagram, if, as you say, it is correct...

https://www.servicetutorials.com/2022/04/14/tutorial-skoda-fabia-mk2-2007-2014-fuse-panel-box-location-diagram/#:~:text=The fuse box is located,screwdriver to open the cover.&text=If playback doesn't begin shortly%2C try restarting your device.
 

Thank you again for your help. I'm very grateful! This forum is amazing and I hope to contribute back as well.

Martin
 

Fuse position	Symbol / Semnification	Amperes   (A)
1	–	–
2	START-STOP	5
3	Instrument duster, headlamp beam adjustment	7,5
4	ABS control unit	5
5	Petrol engine: Cruise control system	5
6	Reversing light (manual gearbox)	10
7	Ignition / Engine control unit automatic gearbox	15 / 7,5
8	Brake pedal switch, coolant fan	5
9	Operating controls for the heating, control unit for air conditioning system, parking aid, control unit for Cornering Lights, coolant fan	5
10	Air conditioning (Only valid for some countries)	7,5
11	Mirror adjustment	5
12	Control unit for trailer detection	5
13	Control unit for automatic gearbox	5
14	Motor for halogen projector headlights with cornering light function	10
15	Navigation PDA	5
16	Electrohydraulic power steering	5
17	START-STOP-radio / Daylight driving lights	10 / 7,5
18	Mirror heater	5
19	S-contact	5
20	Engine control unit / Engine control unit / Fuel pump relay / Fuel pump control unit	5 / 7,5 / 15 / 15
21	Reversing light, fog lights with the function „Cornering lights”	10
22	Operating controls for the heating, control unit for air conditioning system, parking aid, mobile phone, instrument cluster, steering angle sensor, ESP, vehicle voltage control unit multifunction steering wheel	7,5
23	Interior lighting, storage compartment and luggage compartment, side lights	15
24	Central control unit of the vehicle	5
25	Seat heaters	20
26	Rear window wiper	10
27	–	–
28	Petrol engine: AKF valve, petrol engine: Control flap	10
29	Injection, water pump	10
30	Fuel pump / Ignition / Cruise control system, operation of PTC relay	15 / 20 / 5
31	Lambda sensor	10
32	High pressure pump, pressure valve	15
33	Engine control unit	30/15
34	Engine control unit / Vacuum pump	15 / 20
35	Power supply of ignition lock	5
36	Main beam light	15
37	Rear fog light	7,5
38	Fog lights	10
39	Blower	30
40	Heatable windscreen washing nozzles, windscreen cleaning system	15
41	–	–
42	Rear window heater	25
43	Horn	20
44	Front window wiper	20
45	Central control unit for convenience system	25/10
46	Anti-theft alarm system	15
47	Cigarette lighter, power socket in the luggage compartment (If the engine is switched off already one electrical component which is connected can discharge the battery)	15
48	ABS, START-STOP – DC/DC converter ESP	15
49	Turn signal lights, brake lights	15
50	START-STOP – DC/DC converter infotainment	30
50	Radio	10
51	Electrical power window (front and rear) – left side	25
52	Electrical power window (front and rear) – right side	25
53	Parking light-left side / Electric sliding (tilting roof)	5 / 25
54	START-STOP – instrument cluster / Anti-theft alarm system	5 / 15
55	Control unit for automatic gearbox DSG	30
56	Headlight cleaning system / Parking light – right side	25 / 5
57	Left low beam, headlight range adjustment	15
58	Low beam on the right	15

 

Edited 19 December, 20223 yr by mlbSK2011

RHD fusebox is a rotated version of that, like this:

 

I would think removing fuse 46 may well solve your problem, and probably easier to do than snipping any wires.

Doubt it will have any other consequences.

Edit: Does the car have start/stop? If it does not, it might be fuse 54 you need to remove, if it is 15 Amp fuse?

Confusing mismatch between what that site you've quoted shows and what the official wiring info says about fuses 46 and 54.

Edited 19 December, 20223 yr by Breezy_Pete

10 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

RHD fusebox is a rotated version of that, like this:

 

I would think removing fuse 46 may well solve your problem, and probably easier to do than snipping any wires.

Doubt it will have any other consequences.

Edit: Does the car have start/stop? If it does not, it might be fuse 54 you need to remove, if it is 15 Amp fuse?

Confusing mismatch between what that site you've quoted shows and what the official wiring info says about fuses 46 and 54.

Hi Pete thanks for this!

 

Thankfully no start/stop!

 

I need to go out and check what amp it has. 

Sorry if that diagram is off it's just what I found and seemed reasonable...

 

I'll let you know what I come up with!

 

Martin

In that case I'd expect fuse 54 to be the alarm horn, if it is a 15 Amp one. 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Good news about not having stop/start (potentially dodged a few bullets there).

 

I would have suggested and go along with the good advice you have been given to just remove the fuse and see what happens, that way if you want the alarm system back hopefully you can just put the fuse back in.  You could store it in a slot for spare fuses in the box that way you know you have a spare fuse of that amperage that at least worked last time it was used.

 

Always check and cross-reference any information you get from any source me especially, I have a bad memory and get things wrong.

 

In the table example you've posted (I didn't follow the hyperlink) it has "Fuse position 46 Anti-theft alarm system 15 Amperes (A)" yet the photo you put up has a 20 amp fuse in the marked 46 position.

 

Just in case you don't have the correct Owner's Manual for your car you can get a pdf copy from the following link but note what I put before about the diagram for my wife's 2015 Fabia. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

Nothing wrong with Halfords for 12v car batteries but I've found before they used different battery numbers to others and when I fitted a Halfords own battery to my neighbour's car it had an extra layer of foot bar which my neighbour didn't want me to remove so I had to adapt (file elongate the hole in the clamping plate) for a not so nice fit and the battery number was different and battery slightly smaller than I'd have suggested but my neighbour had used the Halford look up system correctly.

 

If you wanted to fit the battery yourself you could try Tayna who normally deliver the next day if you order before 6.30 pm but I've no idea at the moment, I'd ring and confirm if I was in a hurry for the battery what with the recent cold snap for stock levels, strikes and this end of year Xmas and New Year stuff.

 

Unless you're not going to have the car in a few years and will be using it regularly on reasonable distance journeys with no excessive battery use for plug-ins I'd not suggest going for a minimum requirement battery, a better battery will generally give better performance but that doesn't always mean it's reflected in the retail price, a good battery is a good battery regardless of selling price.

 

Breezy-Pete is a good person to help you with other electrical issues too but you'd help yourself and others if you put up more information about your model, for your current issues and perhaps future issues.

 

Good luck, new batteries in the remote(s) and car will help rather than hinder with any electrical issues and a good base to begin from.

Edited 19 December, 20223 yr by nta16
speeling and stuff

On 19/12/2022 at 12:57, Breezy_Pete said:

In that case I'd expect fuse 54 to be the alarm horn, if it is a 15 Amp one. 

Hi Pete and NTA - so, update. 

 

Battery replaced. Siren goes off still.

Changed key fob batteries. Went off again. 

I think thankfully there's a timeout on it or I'd lose my mind - I only have hearing in one ear and this is excruciating.

I also disconnected the main battery.

 

Stranegly, I went to pull fuse number 46. There's not one there! Could this be the issue?

The garage that was checking it out for me was testing down there a few days before this started? could they have left out a fuse? 

 

 

Otherwise, Pete, I may try your fuse 54. 

 

I may just have to cancel my Christmas plans... Dunno. I am tempted to just open thte top and remove the darn siren. It's a 2011, is not mint necessarily, and I don't leave anything of value in the car. This is too upsetting and I can't keep disturbing the neigbours.

 

thanks for any further ideas. 

Edited 20 December, 20223 yr by mlbSK2011

23 hours ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

 

 

Good luck, new batteries in the remote(s) and car will help rather than hinder with any electrical issues and a good base to begin from.

Hi Nta just tagging you in the update above, if you have any ideas? Thank you!

PS. Is THIS the darn thing? 

 

 

one more - 

 

Not to confuse things, but this source shows alarm at fuse 20... It's marked specifiacally for Skoda Fabia Mk2 2007-2014.

 

https://fusecheck.com/skoda/skoda-fabia-ii-2007-2014-fuse-diagram

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

45 minutes ago, mlbSK2011 said:

Hi Nta just tagging you in the update above, if you have any ideas? Thank you!

I'd follow the advice of pulling fuse 54 especially as it's there to be pulled (I thought it related to stop/start alternative).

 

I totally understand about the alarm going off when you open the door, personally I can't stand car or house alarms.  If you're only third party (can you still get that?) and not third party, fire and theft then there's no worry about not having an alarm.

 

Sorry I've no idea what that thing is.

 

For tagging (I'd forgot that's what it's called) put the @ symbol in front as in @mlbSK2011

 

Once you've stopped the alarm going off you can get to take more photos to get help from others with the other electrical problem.

 

(I was hoping you'd be back by now saying you'd pulled the fuse and the alarm didn't go off.)

 

1 hour ago, mlbSK2011 said:

Pete, I may try your fuse 54. 

Do it, it's the right one on your car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

33 minutes ago, mlbSK2011 said:

one more - 

 

Not to confuse things, but this source shows alarm at fuse 20... It's marked specifiacally for Skoda Fabia Mk2 2007-2014.

 

https://fusecheck.com/skoda/skoda-fabia-ii-2007-2014-fuse-diagram

Yes lots of info about but what is correct and what applies to your car,  your VIN should get you to the correct Owner's Manual.

 

Just about to put I'd follow the advice you'd been given before to try 54, so I'll just a triple up on that.

 

@nta16 @Breezy_Pete

 

Thanks Nigel and Pete.

 

The report is, I stopped checking the computer, and opened up that bonnet, took up the plastic skuttle cover (?) and removed the thing. MIRACLES! I just didn't feel confident messing about with the fuses and having it go off anymore - some of my neighbours are elderly and it got late in the afternoon. 

 

I'll have it in the garage 5 January and let them sort it, but I feel very empowered - am not a newbie to cars just to Skoda and such. 

 

I noticed in another thread someone was saying they replaced with one made in Italy. Italy is also marked on mine. Appears someone's replaced this already. 

 

The fellow this morning could not get any readings from the computer reader - so, we'll see how we figure this out...

 

But yes indeed Nigel, I'll do anmother post/theared and shre what I've learned, and what I find out. Taking the thing out was slightly fiddly without removing the wiper arms, but not really that bad. 30-45mins? You just prop it to one side, and I got something to press the left side up high torquining the plastiuc without breaking anything. 

 

One thing to watch out for: the windscreen spray hose is clips with a tiny zip tie to the alarm bracket. Must be cut first lest you rip the spray hose up. 

 

More soon, and really guys, THANK YOU. 

 

Martin

 

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Martin, well done on sorting it

 

Pete done all the accurate and concise work not me, I'd have not posted about fuse 46  had I seen his post before I put mine and I'm sure he'll be able to help you with the other electrical issues.

 

To be honest I wasn't sure that was the alarm at all but did notice a cable-tie restraining the cables cover which I don't think is factory fit so could be added later by who knows, I almost mentioned it but thought it best not to highlight it if it wasn't the alarm and was other electrical work as the alarm was the priority.  Be great for others if you could do a write-up and some photos always help.

 

The scan tool not getting anything could be several things but do bear in mind some of these tools are just error code readers, which is useful, others do and tell you a lot more but all are just diagnostic tools and have to be used as such, sometimes they point to the right thing straight off but it's not always that simple.

 

If you put up some photos of the alarm box and its connections and the wiring and connector in the car perhaps Pete can offer some advice on it as it my be salvageable.