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Handling upgrades


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2 hours ago, narerusco said:

Just wanted to check if anyone here has fitted a front anti roll bar or similar, and if they had what difference it made and what needed modifying to allow it to fit.

It already has one from the factory.

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I have always found the car handles well, was more just that I had moved to my winter tyres and was looking to see if it would help with making the steering more precise to kind of make up for the larger sidewall on the 16 inch rims with the winters on

 

Will look at upgrading the springs and dampeners as well

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Depending on the age of the car, the front springs and dampers could be worn anyway, they're only good for 120-140,000 km really. Even just replacing with stock will probably improve the handling quite a bit if you don't want to spend a lot on upgrades right now.

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3 hours ago, narerusco said:

I have always found the car handles well, was more just that I had moved to my winter tyres and was looking to see if it would help with making the steering more precise to kind of make up for the larger sidewall on the 16 inch rims with the winters on

 

Will look at upgrading the springs and dampeners as well

 

What winter tyres have you fitted and in what conditions do you feel that the handling needs improving, eg. above freezing or below freezing, snow, wet, dry, etc.?

 

What rim width have you fitted the 205/55R16 tyres to, eg. 6J or 7J, etc.?

 

Are you going to fit snowchains at some point during the winter? If not, you don't need to use the narrow 6Jx16 ET50 rims.

 

If you have fitted 205/55R16 to relatively narrow 6J rims, then using wider 6.5J or 7J rims will help the steering response.

 

Skoda do list a 6Jx16 ET50 rim for the 205/55R16 winter tyre size on the Superb MK2 as this allows the fitment of snowchains.

 

Edited by Carlston
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Currently on a set of 205/55r16 crossclimate 2 XL tyres I am not 100% sure on the rim width.

 

It is mainly just that the car just does not have quite such an immediate response when turning the wheels, which is what I expected when fitting the winters, was just looking to see if there were options to improve it that would also make the car handle even better once back on the 18 inch summer alloys.

 

On a side note, Not sure how it would be possible to fit snow chains due to the clearance on the inside of the wheels as the 16inch rims only just clear the disc brakes

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1 hour ago, narerusco said:

On a side note, Not sure how it would be possible to fit snow chains due to the clearance on the inside of the wheels as the 16inch rims only just clear the disc brakes

 

The Superb MK2 owner's manual says that you can only use snow chains on the front wheels and that you can only use snow chains with links and locks no larger than 9mm. There are also limits on the tyre and rim combinations that you can use with snow chains.

 

Permissible tyre and rim combinations that allow the fitment of snow chains (links and locks no larger than 9mm) on the front wheels are:

205/55R16 fitted to 6Jx16 ET50 rims

205/55R16 fitted to 7Jx16 ET45 rims

205/50R17 fitted to 6Jx17 ET45 rims

 

Skoda owner's manuals

https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

Edited by Carlston
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@narerusco what pressure are you running these CrissClimate 2,s at?    Are you in or going to a country where you have to carry Snow Chains or might have to fit them or is none of that relevant?

 

PS

If your cars body is not flexing badly and the handling is ok in warmer weather with summer tyres and handling OK do you really need a Strut brace to tighten up the engine compartment during winter time? 

Edited by toot
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  • 3 weeks later...

I am running them at the full load pressures listed on the fuel cap, but have since caught the back wheel in a horrendous pothole which has caused the rear shock on that side to have problems so now looking to replace all the shocks and possibly springs as well

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1 hour ago, narerusco said:

I am running them at the full load pressures listed on the fuel cap, but have since caught the back wheel in a horrendous pothole which has caused the rear shock on that side to have problems so now looking to replace all the shocks and possibly springs as well

 

If you're running 205/55R16, it might be worth changing to 195/65R15 for a bit more sidewall and therefore resistance to pothole damage.

 

Jurid on autodoc thinks that the Octavia MK2 2.0TSI 150HP has 288mm front discs. If so, 15" rims will clear the front brake calipers.

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I would not want to go any smaller than the 16s on there, I think it was just that the shocks were already on their way out and just got finished off by the pot hole, also the 16s only clear the calipers on my car by about 3mm

16747710856697827573756844466617.jpg

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41 minutes ago, narerusco said:

I would not want to go any smaller than the 16s on there, I think it was just that the shocks were already on their way out and just got finished off by the pot hole, also the 16s only clear the calipers on my car by about 3mm

 

Have you got a photo of your build code label in the spare wheel well area under the carpet?

 

It looks like you have 312mm front discs, and Jurid, Ferodo, and Valeo on autodoc all think your car came with 288mm front discs.

 

Maybe someone has upgraded them from 288mm to 312mm?

 

Build code 1ZE means that the car left the factory with 288mm front discs.

 

Build code 1LP or 1LL means that the car left the factory with 312mm front discs.

 

Here's what a build code label looks like. Notice that this VW Bora TDI 110kW (150HP) has build code 1ZE, so has 288mm front discs.

bora-car-sticker-jpg.998

 

Changing from 288mm to 312mm front brake discs is an easy job on the Octavia MK2, as the calipers are the same. So just a change of carrier and brake discs is all that's required for the upgrade.

 

ATE 312mm brake caliper carrier

thumb?id=13765568&m=0&n=0&lng=en&ccf=94077835

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ate/13765568

 

Edited by Carlston
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2 hours ago, Carlston said:

 

Have you got a photo of your build code label in the spare wheel well area under the carpet?

 

It looks like you have 312mm front discs, and Jurid, Ferodo, and Valeo on autodoc all think your car came with 288mm front discs.

 

Maybe someone has upgraded them from 288mm to 312mm?

 

Build code 1ZE means that the car left the factory with 288mm front discs.

 

Build code 1LP or 1LL means that the car left the factory with 312mm front discs.

 

Here's what a build code label looks like. Notice that this VW Bora TDI 110kW (150HP) has build code 1ZE, so has 288mm front discs.

bora-car-sticker-jpg.998

 

Changing from 288mm to 312mm front brake discs is an easy job on the Octavia MK2, as the calipers are the same. So just a change of carrier and brake discs is all that's required for the upgrade.

 

ATE 312mm brake caliper carrier

thumb?id=13765568&m=0&n=0&lng=en&ccf=94077835

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ate/13765568

 

Please note I used to have an octavia, but have a superb mk2

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On 08/01/2023 at 17:28, toot said:

Cross Climate 2 XL,s are not really that soft. 

The OP has not said what pressure they are being run at. 

 

With all due respect, cross climate tyres are generally much softer and offer less sidewall rigidity than summer tyres, as I found out on my Porsche Cayenne (a wonderful handling machine, which appeared to defy the laws of physics). Porsche do not give N rated approval to cross climate tyres on the 998 Cayenne and when I stupidly fitted Michelin Cross Climates to mine, the difference was night and day worse over the standard summer Michelin Pilot Sport tyres it was fitted with before. Their N rated Dunlop winter tyres were surprisingly good though, despite these tyres being much softer, but clearly having much stiffer sidewalls to compensate. The suspension geometry settings of a car (camber and toe in) are tuned not only to the shocks, springs and suspension bushing, but also to the characteristics of the factory fitted tyres, so if this formula is changed due to excessive wear in any of the suspension components or fitting incorrect tyres, it will have a negative effect on handling. Many owners will have their suspension geometry checked and adjusted on state of the art laser machines such as 'Hunter', which will be a complete waste of time and an unnecessary expense unless the suspension components are in tip top condition and the correct tyres are fitted. After all, the geometry settings used will be those provided by the manufacturer when then car is new, from the factory. Correct tyre pressures are vitally important and it is quite common for owners to mistake bar for psi leading to under inflation of tyres.

Edited by Smart Pro
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@Smart Pro With all due respect it will make all the difference with the Profile of them. 

The OP will not be fitting the tyre size / profile you had on the Porsche.  Or i have on my 4x4. 

 & went narrower from 285's to 265 with the Cross Climate, but then they are SUV XL's (Reinforced)   as i also have on my Suzuki with 16 " Rims.

 

UK NSL so real world and actual winter weather then the Porsche does handle better if it does not get stuck and need towing out.

 

 

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Edited by toot
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43 minutes ago, Smart Pro said:

...it is quite common for owners to mistake bar for psi leading to under inflation of tyres...

 

1 Bar = 14.5038 psi

 

2 Bar = 29.0075 psi

 

3 Bar = 43.5113 psi

 

I've never heard of anyone confusing Bar with PSI as they are so different.

 

If you accidentally inflated your tyres to 2.5 psi rather than 2.5 Bar, they would look almost flat.

 

Edited by Carlston
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2 hours ago, toot said:

@Smart Pro With all due respect it will make all the difference with the Profile of them. 

The OP will not be fitting the tyre size / profile you had on the Porsche.  Or i have on my 4x4. 

 & went narrower from 285's to 265 with the Cross Climate, but then they are SUV XL's (Reinforced)   as i also have on my Suzuki with 16 " Rims.

 

UK NSL so real world and actual winter weather then the Porsche does handle better if it does not get stuck and need towing out.

 

 

DSCN3659.JPG.cd97dc6e8c02b8ba91706dd13bcb6e0d.JPG.586572edea68972a92c012523e7f04c3.jpeg

1405516931_DSCN3645.JPG.ce5d86818560f2ec082d560037023b7f(2).JPG.dc4fc8a52fdb94ce45c913f6843ed4bf.jpeg

 

 

DSCN4244.JPG.ff99c96394434800de91a2ad7d63bad7.jpeg.8433a742f68b87ef0ba033694d7a47de.jpeg

DSCN2626.JPG.f7bc29469beaa48199782aeba195ecdc.jpeg

1751573245_clovasnowjimnyjan10043.JPG.adb493320b1a0ace6971fd4eb3b95e6d.jpeg

 

I was comparing like for like in terms of profile. I was also talking about handling, as per the op's original post and not outright grip!

 

I accept that both SUV's Cross Climate and Summer tyres will be XL (reinforced) but the characteristics of both types of tyre of the same profile, on roads without snow (most of the time in southern England) will be noticeably different and will have an effect on handling.

 

 

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