Hi all I'm new here, have a octavia s a ltdi 2015 automatic 1.6 TDI broke down last night oild pressure light I ignored, now sometimes does crank but won't fully start up drove it fir weeks with very minimum oil in engine 

Anyone please advise? 

 

Welcome.

Sorry all i can suggest is that you get a Mobile Mechanic around to check out your car.

 

Oil is the life blood of an engine.

?

Any reason you never put oil in to have it at the correct quantity and have the oil pressure as it should be?

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510909-has-my-engine-just-died

 

 

 

Edited 27 February, 20233 yr by toot

Sadly my advice would be listen to warning lights.

 

Was the oil light orange or red?

 

If I had to guess (and it is a complete guess) I would think you might have damaged the engine internals by causing higher friction due to no oil. This may then have affected the cylinder compression.

18 hours ago, Skodasr said:

oild pressure light I ignored

drove it fir weeks with very minimum oil in engine

 

why... if there is a warning, why would you just carry on and knowingly cause more damage?

I wouldnt call it a breakdown as that implies it wasnt expected and couldnt be avoided - more negligence?

 

What can be done about it? Well youll have to get it seen by a garage who will gauge how bad the damage is and possibly recommend a replacement engine if its seized.

Edited 27 February, 20233 yr by ApertureS

 

 

Bad points : 1. The noise from the front of your car which sounded like the engine destroying itself, was in fact the engine destroying itself.

2. You will have to replace the engine.

 

Good points : 1. You’ve confirmed the oil level and oil pressure warning circuits and lamps are working.

2. You will get a new engine.

 

Every cloud has a silver lining.

You might get away with a complete rebuild… could bore it out get a 1.7 tdi 😂👍

1 hour ago, classic said:

Every cloud has a silver lining.

The oil probably has a silver tint to it as well now...

On 27/02/2023 at 08:09, toot said:

Welcome.

Sorry all i can suggest is that you get a Mobile Mechanic around to check out your car.

 

Oil is the life blood of an engine.

?

Any reason you never put oil in to have it at the correct quantity and have the oil pressure as it should be?

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510909-has-my-engine-just-died

 

 

 

Simply ignored the light and forgot 

 

On 27/02/2023 at 08:38, cheezemonkhai said:

Sadly my advice would be listen to warning lights.

 

Was the oil light orange or red?

 

If I had to guess (and it is a complete guess) I would think you might have damaged the engine internals by causing higher friction due to no oil. This may then have affected the cylinder compression.

IT was red light

So checked it out today with my friend machanic, using jump leads started but then gone off, he said bottom end gone so now will require the crankshaft because of the sound it makes when it starts, it won't crank without charging battery, 

Any suggestions? 

Or places to get good price crankshaft 

It's a 65 plate skoda octavia s a ltdi 2015 automatic 1.6 

Thanks 

15 minutes ago, Skodasr said:

my friend machanic said bottom end gone so now will require the crankshaft because of the sound it makes when it starts

Yeah, I was going to say "engine FUBAR" based on running with the red oil pressure light on.

2 minutes ago, Skodasr said:

Any suggestions?

You've said that you ran it for a while showing an oil light.  That warning light was telling you the engine's lubricant supply was riskily low, leading to times when there would be no lubricant available for the pump to circulate.  That potentially affects every moving part in the engine, starting with the oil pump which relies on a good supply of oil to lubricate itself, then (depending on the oil routing in your motor) to the main bearing journals for the crankshaft, through the oilways in the crankshaft to the big end bearings and then draining down into the sump to be splashed up to the little ends on the gudgeon pins and to lubricate the cylinder walls so the pistons don't sieze.  In parallel the oil should be forced at high pressure up to the camshaft to lubricate the camshaft journals, the cams, rockers and tappets, plus also (depending on whether you have a chain or belt drive to the camshaft) to the camchain, tensioner and idler wheel.

 

The suggestion from your mechanic that the main bearings have gone puts the whole state of the motor in doubt and you would likely end up spending a lot of money getting the crankshaft reground and new main bearings only to find other parts of the motor were also terminally damaged.

 

If it were my car I'd drop the motor and replace it with one from a recycler.  Then, if I was bored enough, I would gradually strip and check the old motor on the bench to see just how far the damage had gotten.  Either than or use it for a sea anchor.

 

Just FYI there are several motors on offer on fleabay - here's one at 800 squid plus postage.

 

 

14 minutes ago, MikeTheThinker said:

You've said that you ran it for a while showing an oil light.  That warning light was telling you the engine's lubricant supply was riskily low, leading to times when there would be no lubricant available for the pump to circulate.  That potentially affects every moving part in the engine, starting with the oil pump which relies on a good supply of oil to lubricate itself, then (depending on the oil routing in your motor) to the main bearing journals for the crankshaft, through the oilways in the crankshaft to the big end bearings and then draining down into the sump to be splashed up to the little ends on the gudgeon pins and to lubricate the cylinder walls so the pistons don't sieze.  In parallel the oil should be forced at high pressure up to the camshaft to lubricate the camshaft journals, the cams, rockers and tappets, plus also (depending on whether you have a chain or belt drive to the camshaft) to the camchain, tensioner and idler wheel.

 

The suggestion from your mechanic that the main bearings have gone puts the whole state of the motor in doubt and you would likely end up spending a lot of money getting the crankshaft reground and new main bearings only to find other parts of the motor were also terminally damaged.

 

If it were my car I'd drop the motor and replace it with one from a recycler.  Then, if I was bored enough, I would gradually strip and check the old motor on the bench to see just how far the damage had gotten.  Either than or use it for a sea anchor.

 

Just FYI there are several motors on offer on fleabay - here's one at 800 squid plus postage.

 

 

Thanks Mike appreciated 

So you think no use in getting crankshaft and further investigation? 

1 minute ago, Skodasr said:

So you think no use in getting crankshaft and further investigation?

Neither I nor any other third party can make that decision for you.  We've not seen or listened to the car so can only offer you opinions as to what might need looking at and possible ways of addressing the problem.

 

I don't know why you chose to ignore the oil warning light for so long but you are now where you are; agonising over what could potentially be a dead motor.  Time to take a deep breath and really look at where you are, rather than going on knee-jerk forays into one possible problem area after another.

 

If you're looking for more info from the motor I'd take a good look at the oil - metal particles are an indicator of wear, check the magnetic sump plug (if fitted), have a look in the oil filter (chop it open and see what's been trapped in the folds) and - if you want to go further - pull the camshaft cover and visually inspect the cam lobes for wear.  You could also look at the camchain similarly.

 

This is NOT your motor (I think it's actually a Porsche motor) but it should give you some ideas as to how oil circulates around an engine:

 

Thanks alot gents I'll get my bro  have thorough inspection of these things mentioned here 

Will update 

Red light is low oil pressure. If you drove like that for a week I would imagine many parts of the engine are going to be deeply unhappy .
 

Getting the car running again is a trade off….

 

You could easily spend £800 + fitting repairing your engine.

 

You could also buy a second hand engine and have it go bang shortly after.

 

I would get a price for a complete rebuild before you let anyone start on repairing bits. This will likely be cheaper than fixing it piece at a time, then the next piece etc.
 

Only then with prices etc can you make your choice an informed one.

 

Good luck and please use this as a prompt for the future as why you have warning lights.

Edited 1 March, 20233 yr by cheezemonkhai