Fylaktos, I think you are still getting liner rust. There is no way to stop it other than to remove the head. An inline filter would in your case be beneficial tbh

12 hours ago, nta16 said:

'repair shop' (garage to UK)

 

Garage in Greece = private parking.

https://vb.containers.com.gr/images/230.jpg?crc=3990564924

We say it with french accent although the Americans pronounce is as ''ga-ra-che''.

 

I appreciated the advise that you gave me about a thoroughly cleaning of the system but i couldn't do it so in next coolant change i will remove the expansion tank, clean it and let's see next time if there are any ''glitters'' left.

The positive thing is that i found none of them stuck in the coolant sensor's base but i can not know if any of them left are inside the radiator.

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

An inline filter would in your case be beneficial

 

I will look for it, one other problem now is that i had to add some coolant, the pressure check few months ago didn't show any leaks and i didn't see anything yesterday.

Maybe there is a ''sneaky'' leak from the cap (the expansion tank is VIKA).

25 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Maybe there is a ''sneaky'' leak from the cap

I dont want to make you sad but, 99% you headgasket is starting to go.
Im so sure that if you perform a BTB test the result will be positive.

Its exactly how the failure starts,
then it will progress by having different turn on poins of the fan when vehicle is idling vs when you are giving it slightly throttle (1200 rpms stationary).
Then it will progress in the exact way mine progressed

Edited 21 January, 20251 yr by Thefeliciahacker

11 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Im so sure that if you perform a BTB test the result will be positive.

 

I don't know what to say to my mechanic, how to do the ''BTB'' test?

 

Is something like this?

https://mycar.gr/product/kit-elegchou-diarrois-flantzas-kefalis-10ml-amio-1-tem/

 

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Is something like this?

https://mycar.gr/product/kit-elegchou-diarrois-flantzas-kefalis-10ml-amio-1-tem/

I have no idea what a BTB test means and I didn't watch the video so might be repeating what' is already put.

 

The link I have quoted is what I think some call a sniffer test, it can be very useful and inexpensive in those kits (though 10 euros seems a lot for it) better still is a gauge test as shown in the following video.

 

 

A compression test?

The cylinders must show an identical or at least similar indication if things are alright?

Edited 21 January, 20251 yr by D.FYLAKTOS

13 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

A compression test?

The cylinders must show an identical or at least similar indication if things are alright?

Checking totally different things under totally different conditions 
 

 

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

how to do the ''BTB'' test?

BTB = Bromothymol Blue 

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

https://mycar.gr/product/kit-elegchou-diarrois-flantzas-kefalis-10ml-amio-1-tem/

yes get that one its worth in weight in gold

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

The link I have quoted is what I think some call a sniffer test, it can be very useful and inexpensive in those kits (though 10 euros seems a lot for it) better still is a gauge test as shown in the following video.

They're 2 different things.

A "sniffer test" is a chemical test for evidence of exhaust gases in the coolant.

A compression test is a measurement of how much intake gases are compressed during the engine's compression stroke.

25 minutes ago, Paws4Thot said:

 

A "sniffer test" is a chemical test for evidence of exhaust gases in the coolant.

 

I have seen this in older mechanics sniffing the spark plugs for excessive gasoline presentance.

Yes both are used for head gasket failure.  Sniffer test as put for evidence of gases in coolant, compression test can be used for more or tell you more.  Sniffer test is a good in expensive start but can give a false negative and miss other cylinder, block, gasket, engine issues.

 

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

The cylinders must show an identical or at least similar indication if things are alright?

Yes but the test has to be done correctly and consistently with each cylinder.  Generally 10% difference is allowed for in an old road car.  As with all testing repeated consisted results are best, that means doing the test run perhaps two or three times to confirm the results.  The figures on each set of testing may vary slightly, also bear in mind you are testing an old engine in a road going car not a high end race team or laboratory test conditions.

 

 

20 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I have seen this in older mechanics sniffing the spark plugs for excessive gasoline presentance.

Sniffer test isn't a technical or very accurate description just a term for it, I was aware of it as more as a colour test, does the liquid change colour.  A "classic" car coolant includes this element for change of colour if there are gases in the coolant but I can assure you from personal experience that wasn't reliable in that coolant.

 

If you are topping up before the coolant drops below the minimum mark on the tank and you are checking the level at the correct times, you could also try, allow the coolant to sit at a level between the minimum and maximum marks on the tank, put a mark at that level and see if the level drops to somewhere where it stops dropping anymore, provided this isn't below the minimum just accept it as the natural level for the car.

 

Edited 21 January, 20251 yr by nta16

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

BTB = Bromothymol Blue 

Arrogance again, you know you are not responding to engineers or chemist but you use the term BTB to show your self perceived superiority.  I have never seen Bromothymol Blue referred to in decades of general car internet forums and bulletin boards.  If you were like this when you were in the UK I'm sure you would have had the urine extracted out of you repeatedly.

 

I did not do it in purpose. I apologise this was an honest power of habit 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

A "classic" car coolant includes this element for change of colour if there are gases in the coolant but I can assure you from personal experience that wasn't reliable in that coolant

 

If i had a head gadket issue the G12 wouldn't had a discoloration and the expnansion cap wouldn't be dirty?

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

If i had a head gadket issue the G12 wouldn't had a discoloration and the expnansion cap wouldn't be dirty?

NONONO well kept cars don't mix oil and water they leak combustion gasses, trust me on that, I have had a lot of brainstorming about the failure mode

please get that test i wish i had done that in 2019 when all the first signs were there I would have saved a heck of a lot of money 

14 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

NONONO well kept cars don't mix oil and water they leak combustion gasses, trust me on that, I have had a lot of brainstorming about the failure mode

 

OK i will but there are no premature indications about that damaged head gasket?

A sign, something?

29 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

OK i will but there are no premature indications about that damaged head gasket?

A sign, something?

At this stage not really its early the test is going to answer

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I did not do it in purpose. I apologise this was an honest power of habit 

We all make mistakes, it's not a big issue, if you can try to temper your habit and think of the type of forum and person you are responding to.

 

BTW I original missed that you thought I was better than ABS I didn't mean to suggest that at all, just that ABS isn't part of braking in normal conditions, you can drive without ABS and survive, I've done so for 40+ years, that doesn't mean I would remove it from vehicles fitted with it, quite the reserve I would be very happy it was fitted if I ever really needed it,  But if you were to follow your logic with cars there wouldn't be a human driver and there would be no need and possibly place for your Alfa or Felicia.

 

Be great if we all continue to rub along, not always agreeing and offering different types of posts and information and opinions.  If there weren't difference there would be only one type of car with one type of tyres fitted on it and that wouldn't suit all of us.

 

Not calling someone arrogant when they explain, as requested, what BTB stands for would go a long way towards "rubbing along" together.

33 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

OK i will but there are no premature indications about that damaged head gasket?

A sign, something?

I have had 5 head gasket failures that I can think of and with most of them the signs were a lot easier to recognise with hindsight after the event particularly when other work has been done with the coolant system.  I had a mate with a "classic" that generally knew about cars and had been working on and maintaining his cars from first his first old banger onwards but when I saw him checking his coolant and suggested to him HGF (head gasket failure) he thought not but that is what it turned out to be.  I was right not because I am clever or knew more than him about cars, because neither of these were true, but it was more that I was another/fresh pair of eyes and not involved with the car.  Often others can see what we can't or don't want to.

 

 

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

If i had a head gadket issue the G12 wouldn't had a discoloration and the expnansion cap wouldn't be dirty?

I have only ever seen the "classic" coolant with the colour change additive.  Dirt on the expansion cap may or may not be relate to HGF depending on what the dirt is but if it's the glitters then perhaps this might be a sign of HGF.

 

For reference only, I have posted this before, I would strongly suggest you never used this coolant even if you could get it (I would think MG Owners Club do post to Greece).

https://4lifecoolant.co.uk/

 

12 minutes ago, nta16 said:

for reference only, I have posted this before, I would strongly suggest you never used this coolant even if you could get it (I would think MG Owners Club do post to Greece).

 

 

Can be bought

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/301349314750

 

As for the sealant (dust) that i have used in the past looks like this

 

 

it must be the culprit for those ''glitters''.

You would not like 4-Life as it will find the slightest opportunity to leak.

 

I would imagine that sealant dust might well be your glitters, usually it's in a liquid for use.  One example only, used (or was if not now) by at least on large breakdown/recovery service in the UK. - https://www.kseal.com/uk/products/k-seal

 

Get the sniffer test follow the instructions and see how you go from there.

 

38 minutes ago, nta16 said:

 

I would imagine that sealant dust might well be your glitters

 

 

I have no ''suspicius'' symptoms for gasket failure (for those which i read in relative articles) but i bought the Bromothymol Blue test, it will arrive in 2 days.

Since i have no radiator cap i will use it in the expansion tank (in the place of it's own cap) and as i heard the car must be warm.

 

As I put HGF signs are more obvious with hindsight, particularly if you've been doing working on the engine, ignition, cooling, etc. and think it might be something to do with recent work and not thinking of HGF. 

 

Not seen this before but DrHeadGasket™ (and it's not one of my trademarks) at least backs me up with caution of results. - https://www.drheadgasket.co.uk/COMBUSTION-LEAK-TESTER-HEAD-GASKET-TESTER-BLOC-SNIFF-TESTER-COMBUSTION-LEAK-DETECTOR-DR-HEADGASKET-UK

 

Instructions for use of the basic generally available DIY kits (not from DrHeadGasket™). -

 

"Directions for use:

Fill the instrument with reaction fluid (approx. 2 ml) to the level between the chambers.
Connect the tester to the opening of the expansion tank or cooler.
Start the engine (preferably when it is warm), increase the speed to obtain a higher combustion pressure.
Allow the engine to run slightly at elevated speed and observe the behavior of the reaction fluid.
A change in the color of the reaction fluid to yellow or green within a few minutes of the test indicates a damaged head gasket or damage to the head itself.
After completing the tests, carefully disassemble the instrument.

Attention. When testing on the radiator filler, use extra caution when unscrewing the cap and during the test itself – risk of burns.

When testing, do not allow the coolant to mix with the reaction fluid. If the liquids are mixed, the test result may not be correct."

 

And I was totally wrong 10 euros is not higher price inflation has raced passed me.

 

Edited 21 January, 20251 yr by nta16
ETA:

11 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Since i have no radiator cap i will use it in the expansion tank (in the place of it's own cap) and as i heard the car must be warm.

yes after thermostat is open