That rubber adaptor will ''seal'' properly the expansion tank

 

 

 

and the fumes from the coolant will rise up and mixed with the blue liquid?

I wonder why we can mix coolant with few drops from Bromothymol Blue to see the reaction?

20 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I have no ''suspicius'' symptoms for gasket failure (for those which i read in relative articles) but i bought the Bromothymol Blue test, it will arrive in 2 days.

I hope I'm wrong this time because you are really dependant on your vehicle

It depends on the size of the rubber adapter how well if fits and seals, if it's not big enough you could wrap it with something like Gorilla/gaffa/duck tape it's just important to get the seal so the fumes go through the hole in the centre and up to the fluid.

 

I've no idea about chemistry but I'd guess the kit wants the fumes.

 

On 22/01/2025 at 12:29, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I wonder why we can mix coolant with few drops from Bromothymol Blue to see the reaction?

it will just react to the ph of the coolant nothing to see, much better using a ph strip

 

On 22/01/2025 at 12:29, D.FYLAKTOS said:

That rubber adaptor will ''seal'' properly the expansion tank

good enough maybe it will need some forcing on your part

 

On 22/01/2025 at 12:29, D.FYLAKTOS said:

and the fumes from the coolant will rise up and mixed with the blue liquid?

No if there are exhaust gasses present ie CO2 it will react forming carbonic acid, a very week acid just enough to drop the ph of the solution to 4 - 5 or so to turn it green and then yellow, its just a visual index, the same test can be performed by using water and a ph strip instead of the BTB solution.
Tip you can turn it back to blue by adding a base. Use sodium hydroxide, aka tuboflo just dissolve a few grains in distilled water and add it drop by drop back in the yellow solution it will turn blue and you can return it to its bottle 

 

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

you could wrap it with something like Gorilla/gaffa/duck tape

 

I have in my trunk, i will apply if needed.

 

29 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Use sodium hydroxide, aka tuboflo just dissolve a few grains in distilled water and add it drop by drop back in the yellow solution it will turn blue and you can return it to its bottle 

 

No,no...i have bitter experience from ''chemisty experiementals'' in the past in my coolant and not only.

Just the test as the directions say to be sure that i have no head gasket problem although i have no indications.

The kit arrived today, if the weather is good i will give it a try at Saturday noon.

30 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

No,no...i have bitter experience from ''chemisty experiementals'' in the past in my coolant and not only.

Not an experiment haha, just so as not to lose the liquid!

 

31 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Just the test as the directions say to be sure that i have no head gasket problem although i have no indications.

I hope so because, but deep down I have a bad feeling recall my (late in terms of failure progression) videos. Everything was very clean...
https://youtu.be/jCi5UuB-G6E

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I have in my trunk, i will apply if needed.

You might not need to depends on the size of the adapter, you have a new plastic tank so more pliable for the rubber adapter, you could also warm the adapter just before fitting to make that more pliable, and yes I do know what it's like farting about outside with cars in cold winter weather.

 

There's usually enough in the kit for three or four uses or you can buy a good size bottle of the fluid for not too much, more than you would ever want to use, just seen and been reminded we used to refer to it as block tester, I have no idea if the "sniff tester" name came later or used elsewhere at the same time or the term was used before block tester.  The name or term doesn't matter and as we know things change with time.  To often go in a circle and return to how things were before but new to a different generation.  The wheel turns you just have to ensure it doesn't run you over. 😆

 

 

2 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

the directions say to be sure that i have no head gasket problem although i have no indications.

That's good, that's the false negative, which can also arise if things aren't done correctly, though with this simple test it's difficult to do much wrong.

 

Good luck.

 

Translated from a customer's review:

 

Quote

The only drawback is that the black funnel must seal well in the opening of the radiator cap (in open cooling systems) to prevent exhaust gases from escaping, either by cutting a little from below or

by putting a small bag on the outside and with caution because the thermostat must be open for correct measurement and with a little gas! and there is a risk of burns.

At some point the coolant will rise and then the color of the liquid on the indicator should not be taken into account, but before this happens.

 

Our system is ''closed'' so i have to run the car till the thermostat full opens, open the (expansion's tank) cap slowly, maybe an amount of air will come out or maybe not, apply the rubber cone-funnel, throw the blue liquor and?

Must i rev the car by hand for how long? Should i let it idle it self and for how long?

The coolant will rise shortly since there is no pressure.

https://amio.pl/en/head-gasket-tester/3-129-6742

 

Instructions for performing the test:

1.Fill the instrument with reaction fluid to the level between the chambers (approximately 2ml).

2.Connect the tester to the opening of the expansion tank or radiator.

3.Start the engine, put it into high revs to obtain higher combustion pressure.

4.Leave the engine at slightly increased rpm and observe the reaction fluid behaviour

5.A change in the colour of the reaction fluid to yellow or green within a few minutes of the test indicates a defective head gasket or damage to the head itself.

6.Carefully dismantle the instrument after testing is complete.

 

Test results:

1.Change in colour from blue to green in a diesel engine - indicates damage to the head gasket or the head itself.

2.Change of colour from blue to yellow in a petrol/LPG engine - indicates damage to the head gasket or to the head itself.

3.Reaction fluid colour blue - No CO2 detected in the system.

 

Safety information:

• During the test on the radiator reservoir it is mandatory to take extra care when unscrewing the cap on a warm engine and during the test itself - risk of burns!
• Do not allow coolant to mix with reaction fluid during the test - the test may be invalid!
• Keep out of reach of children, wash hands thoroughly after the test!

On 21/01/2025 at 20:00, nta16 said:

As I put HGF signs are more obvious with hindsight, particularly if you've been doing working on the engine, ignition, cooling, etc. and think it might be something to do with recent work and not thinking of HGF. 

 

Not seen this before but DrHeadGasket™ (and it's not one of my trademarks) at least backs me up with caution of results. - https://www.drheadgasket.co.uk/COMBUSTION-LEAK-TESTER-HEAD-GASKET-TESTER-BLOC-SNIFF-TESTER-COMBUSTION-LEAK-DETECTOR-DR-HEADGASKET-UK

 

Instructions for use of the basic generally available DIY kits (not from DrHeadGasket™). -

 

"Directions for use:

Fill the instrument with reaction fluid (approx. 2 ml) to the level between the chambers.
Connect the tester to the opening of the expansion tank or cooler.
Start the engine (preferably when it is warm), increase the speed to obtain a higher combustion pressure.
Allow the engine to run slightly at elevated speed and observe the behavior of the reaction fluid.
A change in the color of the reaction fluid to yellow or green within a few minutes of the test indicates a damaged head gasket or damage to the head itself.
After completing the tests, carefully disassemble the instrument.

Attention. When testing on the radiator filler, use extra caution when unscrewing the cap and during the test itself – risk of burns.

When testing, do not allow the coolant to mix with the reaction fluid. If the liquids are mixed, the test result may not be correct."

 

And I was totally wrong 10 euros is not higher price inflation has raced passed me.

 

 

So pre-warm the engine to about halfway between cold and normal and then follow the instructions above.  I've put the hyperlink for further info or checking.  I've just noticed the American spelling in that as they have been highlighted as misspelt for UK English.

 

ETA: I posted without seeing your last post.

 

Note - 

18 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

3.Reaction fluid colour blue - No CO2 detected in the system.

"No C02 detected in the system" is not the same as there isn't any, just as it says not detected or that there are no issues with head, block, engine - but there might not be any issues anyway you are just ding one test at one point in time.

 

That's the amount of blue liquor that i must use?

 

 

 

 

36 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

That's the amount of blue liquor that i must use?

this is how much i used its fine

Let the vehicle idle until it gets to 75-80C to then place it on the expansion tank and let it idle until the thermostat opens, then maybe 1200 rpms for a minute or so is perfect for validating... 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

That's the amount of blue liquor that i must use?

Yes.  In that tube device (no doubt there's a name for it but I don't know or forget) if it's the same size as other available there's 2ml of fluid. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123735248113

 

Ok, that Syphon tube must be filled with the blue liquor.

I will post photos of the test.

I'm really worried about your results tomorrow

 

Full details of the test soon.

 

Was it done for at least a minute in elevated revs right? If so that slight color change can be considered normal.

I drove the car for few minutes in low-middle rpm,the temperature rise and the fan start spinning.

I parked the car in an alley, installed the kit drop some blue liquor and rev it by hand, the fan started again and this happened another 2 times.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The whole liquor was moving left and right depending the rpm (idle- higher) but the colour didn't changed.

I decide to insist more to be 100% sure that's why i made a (sloppy) tape work to ''seal'' it more and insist in higher rpm revving by hand.

 

 

Rev by hand, after a while the fan start spinning, took a photo then let it come to normal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This happened another 5 times at least, totally 7 times the fan start working and i think after so many minutes was more than enough for the test, if there would be a colour change it will occur already.

So after this ''torture'' i took a photo from the coolant temperature factory gauge, here is the highest point (as already knew it from the last trip) for my Trusty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I disassemble and clean the kit and returned home declaring a Victory !

 

 

 

I think you can say you have done more than enough to confirm that test at that point of time!  Bit wasteful over filling the tube-thingy though. 😆

 

Now you could perhaps try letting the coolant drop in the tank until it seems to have stopped dropping then mark the coolant level at that level and see if it drops further and if so by how much and over how long.  A very small coolant leak is hardly noticeable on the tank over a good period of time/use.

 

On the Midget the heater tap (tap not valve as such) leaked a little and I've had thermostat housing  / gaskets leak a little, both are on the top face of the cylinder head and you couldn't tell a drop of level in the tank (solid metal tank so no marking and measuring by dipstick method would be a waste of effort for tiny amount lost).  Thermostat housing / gasket would seal by using Hylomar Hylotyte Red 100 but tap was internal leak which was very annoying as it was only 10 years old and didn't come apart for repair like previous versions - such is progress. 

 

Edited 25 January, 20251 yr by nta16
spelling

Your head gasket is 100% healthy I like to admit my suspicions were wrong and unfounded.

Keep enjoying your car free of worries

6 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Now you could perhaps try letting the coolant drop in the tank until it seems to have stopped dropping then mark the coolant level at that level and see if it drops further and if so by how much and over how long.  A very small coolant leak is hardly noticeable on the tank over a good period of time/use.

 

That small lose it's not visible, i checked the hoses-connections,the thermostat housing no leak at all, everything is dry.

The expansion tank is VIKA (not the cap) so maybe there is tiny loss of 100ml per year because the fitting isn't perfect , also i think i haven't check 3 hoses but 2 so i missed one

https://ecanis.shop/media/image/product/84894/lg/motorkuehlung-110006516-mahle_cr-405-000s.webp

and i wonder if there is a tiny leak from the radiator itself but i don't want to put any chemical ''sealant'' on it.