Not in this case, it's a Mk3 Sprite (Mk2 Midget, so a "Spridget") the lift-off fibreglass front isn't standard (those were fixed steel panels). It's a used car (unusual in the old-fart world of MG "classics") so has a few modifications, it's lost its 1100 and on a NOS later tweaked 1275 A-series for much later BL model but never fitted sounds, non-standard exhaust, it sounds like a 2-litre coming down the road. Banded 5" wheels (from the standard 3.5"). Needle front wheel bearings too to save common hassle of modern parts quality. It drivers very well.

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

I superglued the German fantastic-plastic outlet back together and used two slim (worm drive) 'Jubilee' hose clips facing opposite ways

I had the thught to use an epoxh glue but:

I didn't knew anyone to have done such a thing, there was no ''insuranse'' that will last plus in case that the coolant hose was damaged and i had to replace it then i had top use heater-gun plus sandpaper to remove any glue remains.

Now i took the change and i replace the radiator, the poor-guy had suffered 25 years with so many addtives inside and for sure it's performance would be reduced.

Be interesting to see how much difference a clean (no debris and/or gloop inside) new radiator makes to cooling.

I have another ''issue'', in my mind was HEPU G12 as antifreeze and ordered 2 bottles (concentrated) and a plastic tank of distilled water, all arrived with delivery in the repair-shop the mechanic put them inside the system, made the necessary pressure tests plus a thermostat-opening test, few minutes driving around the block and telephone me ''everything OK, it's ready to take it".

Later my eye caught the empty bottles, were not G12 but G12 Plus ! The seller made a mistake, the mechanic didn't pay attention because the bottles are identical and the colour looked like same.

In the first seconds i was shocked, i didn't remember if G12 was mixable with G12 Plus because the last thing that i needed was a coolant flush and replacement !

I saw that are fully compatible and that was a reassuring thing for me because no matter what, some G12 was left inside the engine.

I know that @Thefeliciahacker will say to put G13 but i don't think so.

13 hours ago, nta16 said:

Be interesting to see how much difference a clean (no debris and/or gloop inside) new radiator makes to cooling.

Me too, so many additives in that old original radiator, some detridus from previous Sealants etc, for sure that poor-guy was abused and not clean inside.

A made a quick test at Saturday, everything is fine but today i will take some photos from the instrument cluster gauge to see the position of the needle (same route-same hour) if it's one click lower and pay attention to hear when the radiator fan will start spinning for first time.

On such an old design and build of engine and cooling system, even the mighty Germans and VW, I think you worry too much about the dictates of VW and their confused and altered coolant regime. Yes it's best to stick with same make and model and formula of coolant as much as possible but as long as they mix and tolerate each other and are both suitable for your use things should be fine.

Normally I would think the needle on the gauge might no tell you much but you have such previous testing and information if anyone can notice a difference from such it will be you. When the fan operates might be more of a (rough) indicator, the later the better.

40 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

the mechanic didn't pay attention because the bottles are identical and the colour looked like same.

Colour looked the same(?), I hope that mechanic doesn't do the electrical wiring on the car. 🙂

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

Colour looked the same(?), I hope that mechanic doesn't do the electrical wiring on the car. 🙂

Yes look the same but are not the same, bottles are identical and the only difference is the colour of the cap and low-left says P999-G12 and the other P999-G12plus.

The colour inside the expansion tank is

https://avivfashion.gr/images/mats_aviv/15680/3_650.jpg

versus this

https://avivfashion.gr/images/mats_aviv/16157/3_650.jpg

That G12 Plus is not intense like cap shows.

Edited 28 April28 Apr by D.FYLAKTOS

The violet is an insipid colour on the VW labelled 12evo coolant I've used, but certainly not red - not that you should ever just trust the coolant by it's colour as they do vary, old stuff used to be blue or green, same stuff but very different colour. The gloop that comes out from combinations of coolants and additives can be all sorts and marble effect, it instinctively doesn't look right or good, bit like those bright alcopops. 🙂

Compatibility

Concentrate G12, G12+ is fully miscible with other coolants and can be safely mixed with them.

For two days i haven't notice any discoloration, the coolant looks ''lighr red'' or some sort of ''rouge''.

The chart I put up was to confirm miscibility and provide viewers with reference to all these (additional) German / VW colours and numbers to coolants, it seems to me like possibly at some point at least the VW engineers had to ask for the coolant to be changed to cover for mistake and/or compromises in the VW engines and/or systems.

The fact that you haven't noticed any colour change (depending on the strengths of the two separate dyes) shows how much residue of existing coolant was left and still in your car's cooling and heating system from the leak and changing the radiator.

As for the total cost:

Radiator 66 €

2 bottles of G12 Plus 20€

Distilled water 2 €

Coolant main hose 6 €

Mechanic 80 €

and Taxi (go to work-back home) 15 €

Mechanic and taxi seem lower rates than in UK, the radiator depends on whether it's from China or not.

On 28/04/2025 at 12:31, D.FYLAKTOS said:

will say to put G13 but i don't think so.

G13 has led to cleanest cooling system that car has seen in years

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

G13 has led to cleanest cooling system that car has seen in years

I could well be wrong as I often am many times each day but I'd have thought the cleanliness wouldn't just be down to the G13 specification (whatever that is) but also, or, other actors to do with the change of coolant and how this was done. But if a particular (make, type of) G13 coolant does a good overall job then obviously it's worth sticking with, what works well in application is worth sticking with unless things change.

22 hours ago, nta16 said:

the radiator depends on whether it's from China or not.

It's Nissens,

https://nissens.com/radiator

a company that bought the AVA (all or a part of it)

https://ava-cooling.com/

i didn't want to buy a VIKA.

22 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

G13 has led to cleanest cooling system that car has seen in years

G11: Old school antifreeze/coolant. Contains silicates, borates, and nitrates.
G12: OAT antifreeze/coolant. No silicates, nitrate and borate free.
G12++: HOAT antifreeze/coolant. Contains some silicates. No nitrates or borates.
G13: HOAT antifreeze/coolant. Contains some silicates and glycerin made from renewable sources as a substitute to some of the ethylene glycol. No nitrates or borates

You are missing G12+ and G12evo.

" . . . you put your left leg in, left leg out . . . you do the German coolant cokey . . . that's what it's all about . . . "

Silicate additives for use in radiators with aluminium.

G13 contains some silicate additives for that additional healing aluminium protection. This is contrary to some earlier specifications that use OAT-technology (Organic Acid Technology). Silicate additives make G13 ideal for long-term use in all modern radiators, especially those constructed from aluminium, cast iron and magnesium alloys.

On the other hand, G13 is not the best choice for older cooling systems with copper/brass radiators and heater cores. It doesn’t work well with the lead solder. Use antifreeze with G11 or G12 specification instead.

The @tedvegas has already from 2012 coolant G12 or G12 plus.

His impressions would help a lot.

Here is as it looked after the installation.

I will check the screws on the clamp in the end and back in the thermostat after few days (contraction-dilation circles).

I also took some pictures from the cluster gauge to make a comparison with the previous situation but for sure now with the new radiator things are better.

I noticed also a small delay on the first spinning of the radiator fan.

Sounds like you have a slight improvement in cooling which may be more noticeable on a hot summer's day in traffic or gunning it up mountain roads. I really dislike the self sealing hose clamps VW use a PITA to me, I bought a remote pistol clamp pliers and still could get it on two clamps on my wife's car and had to use slip joint / water pump pliers at odd angles, I would have changed them to 'jubilee' clamps but Sod's Law I hadn't a good size for application in stock.

In the end the main coolant hose has that clamp

https://www.aldenpoolsandplay.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/hose-clamp-2.jpg

althopugh i don't know if was betetr with these clamps

https://www.wurthusa.com/medias/sys_master/images/images/hf3/h7e/8809920430110/15470013.jpg

Here ia a great Clamps test

Constant pressure(?) German type clamps are fine if you have the correct tool at hand, good for garages as they're quick to use and better perhaps for use on VW fantastic-plastic parts and fittings if you've got professional or slap-dash DIY fixing - but my personal experience is that they can be a right PITA, other may find differently. Personally I dismiss the first video as not enough info is given.

The worm drive type clip needs fitting correctly and perhaps checking at some point but if you buy decent quality examples they're fine for decades of use.

Personally I have found Norma and Jubilee clips to be fine, for the high-pressure clamps (the Akihisa in the Project Farm vid) I preferred the Norma with folded rather than the very popular over here Mikalor spot-weld joining (these types used for clamping exhaust joints. Project Farm video would have been better for me had all the clips/clamps been the same size or size range, it did highlight the differences with the worm drive clips and quality from China.

If the clip/clamp is easy to get at and you have suitable tool(s) then the constant-pressure ones are fine, especially if you don't have t buy it but worm drive correctly fitted are also fine as usual each to their own and buy and use to appropriate application.

With the factory radiator

and with the new Aftermarket.

The new is tested for few days an only in City driving.

Allowing for camera angles and other possible variation I would say needle is the same which makes sense.

Here are some other photos, arrived at work with outside temperature 26 'C, parked and waited till the radiator fan stops, took a photo (the indication is one tiny click lower that the previous situation).

In purpose i let the car idling for more till the radiator fan start spinning again, i let it for more time (no incoming air to the radiator) to push it to see the maximum that the needle will reach

and stayed there, that was the end of the test.