Hi All,

 

I recently purchased the Match 5.4 DSP to try and bring some more life into the stock speakers also to add a subwoofer.

 

Has anyone here installed any Match dsp into their car and if you have what settings did you use for the dsp?

How did you get on with this? I’m considering exactly the same Match DSP + a sub, with standard Octavia speakers, just wondering if you found a worthwhile difference? 

I left all the settings within the DSP stock and didn’t choose the more advanced DSP setting. I am really impressed with how much it has changed the system. The highs are clear now and don't sound muddy. The bass is tighter even without the sub and the volume has also increased a decent amount. A few things to note, the system now sounds very balanced even with the subwoofer it’s not overwhelming. If you’re installing this on a RHD car, space to fit the DSP is an issue so it doesn’t interfere with the glovebox and all the videos are demonstrated on LHD. If you want help I’m more than happy to show you how I have mounted it.

Yeah I’ll be interested to see how you have mounted it, mine is also a RHD (UK VRS hatch).

 

Which sub did you go for also? I’m looking at something like an aftermarket in-spare wheel sub, to sit neatly out of the way. (Thought I’ve recently seen people recommending the B&O Q5 2021+ in wheel sub as a decent option too). 

I’m interested in this also, was disappointed to find the VRS came without a sub but generally, it sounds fine for everyday driving but would be nice to find some kind of upgrade like you describe, can you also link where you bought from 

I have been looking at that thread as well but it seems like they have the Canton system so the Q5 sub can be dropped in but from what I can tell the 8 speaker system doesn’t come with any wiring or amp from the factory so it won’t work.

 

I’ve installed the Match PP 8E-Q just because I found it cheap. The issue is this sub is rated for 3 ohms and the Match 5.4 provides either 90 watts at 4 ohm or 160 watts at 2 ohm but it still does support my sub. It doesn’t give me a rating for 3 but let’s say it’s in the middle of the two so around 125watts. I believe for better compatibility and slightly more power I should have bought the PP 7S-D which is rated at 2 ohms.

 

Regarding the placement when the glovebox is off you will see space that can be accessed by removed the trim as show in the photos below. I wrapped the amp in some double sided stick tape so it doesn’t rub against the cars metal frame then zip tied it in to avoid it moving. If you even need to change the amp setting you can easily remove the side trim and plug in the usb cable.

 

 

Looks great.

 

Did you use the “medium” power with the standard wiring or run a +12v for high power?

 

Im wanting to run the higher power for mine, but don't really want to run to the battery terminal if i can help it. 
I’d much sooner add a new fuse holder and 30A fuse to an existing fuse box space, and run it from there (ideally where the original fuse for a canton amplifier would be for a canton specced car) - just to keep it neat. 

Anyone got the file?

 

I'm receiving it this week, for my Superb, would be a good start.

Hi all.

Just Resurrecting this thread as I'm about to pull the trigger on a used Match 5.4 Mk1 Minus the looms.

Apart from the Loom which comes with the kit, could any of you advise which loom you purchased in order to plug n play with the Skoda/VAG?

 

Any pics which you might have taken during your install will be gratefully received.

 

Thanks in advance. 

Only got a few minutes, but my experience so far:

 

The sub makes the difference, giving the door speakers room to breathe for low-mid range.

 

Things i did:
- Used my Audyssey microphone that comes with many cinema receivers and laptop (disabling al input processing) to tune the EQ with TuneEQ   -> and for Timing

- Got a lot of improvement when i dit the input equalizer, MIB unit messes with the EQ itself a lot.

- Mayor improvement setting the MIB unit to front speakers and routing the Front Inputs to the rear speakers,  the MIB unit does something strange with the rear speakers signal which cannot be compensated for. (Found this on a skoda forum, tried it and was really happy with it

- Use the WAV files that come with the software to tune the right things.

 

Right Order:

-> Timing
-> Input EQ  (Disable outputs in software for a quite time )

-> Route front signal to rears (Virtual chanel processing)

-> Output TuneEQ

 

Was quite happy but still the tweeter was killing me. Could not damp it enough in the match to my liking.

So i had some spare crossovers which have -3db setting on the tweeter, installed this and redid TuneEQ and was much more satisfied.

Have now bought som Gladen CL-ONE crossovers because the ones i had are to big to fit, still have to mount these and test.

 

-> Bought an Remote to controle SUB and switch between 2 profiles

 

images:

INputs signal readback before filtering (can be done without microphone)

 

All range -> without -3db crossover

 

left filtered -> test crossover on left tweeter.

Edited 30 April, 20242 yr by Luccie_007

Does anyone have any information as to which loom to use? Also has anyone routed a power cable for high power mode?

I have bought this loom for my superb 2023.

But seems to be for all Vag group.

 

PP-MQS 1.4 Match Adapter für Mercedes, Volkswagen 1 Meter

Bought from ars24

 

Biggest improvement next to match amplifier and subwoofer was using a new filter for the tweeter and woofer.

I bought this set and cut both wires to get -3db on tweeter range.

GLADEN HG-CR-ONE

 

Also fittedy sub in the PHEV hybrid bin.

Just a small cut and it fits perfectly

 

I am wiring the high power mode wire. But i have the mode enabled now for 3 months and no issues seen. On the videos of Ars he does say it is not needed due to thick cables being used by vag.

So ses unnecessary, also I can't measure a real voltage drop on big bass tunes.

 

Edited 25 June, 20241 yr by Luccie_007

Has anyone used parametric EQ with the stock speakers? I play music from my phone with the USB Audio Pro app and am using these standard EQ settings at the moment but wonder if anyone has come up with some better, more detailed improvements. I put a dip at 4kHz as I feel the speakers are a bit peaky there. And boosted the bass as it seems too subdued.

 

 

On 30/04/2024 at 20:07, Luccie_007 said:

Only got a few minutes, but my experience so far:

 

The sub makes the difference, giving the door speakers room to breathe for low-mid range.

 

Things i did:
- Used my Audyssey microphone that comes with many cinema receivers and laptop (disabling al input processing) to tune the EQ with TuneEQ   -> and for Timing

- Got a lot of improvement when i dit the input equalizer, MIB unit messes with the EQ itself a lot.

- Mayor improvement setting the MIB unit to front speakers and routing the Front Inputs to the rear speakers,  the MIB unit does something strange with the rear speakers signal which cannot be compensated for. (Found this on a skoda forum, tried it and was really happy with it

- Use the WAV files that come with the software to tune the right things.

 

Right Order:

-> Timing
-> Input EQ  (Disable outputs in software for a quite time )

-> Route front signal to rears (Virtual chanel processing)

-> Output TuneEQ

 

Was quite happy but still the tweeter was killing me. Could not damp it enough in the match to my liking.

So i had some spare crossovers which have -3db setting on the tweeter, installed this and redid TuneEQ and was much more satisfied.

Have now bought som Gladen CL-ONE crossovers because the ones i had are to big to fit, still have to mount these and test.

 

-> Bought an Remote to controle SUB and switch between 2 profiles

 

images:

INputs signal readback before filtering (can be done without microphone)

 

 

 

 

 

Can you explain this graph for people like me who have never used programs like TuneEQ? What does it show? I can see the frequency on the x-axis but don't understand the blue and orange lines.

 

I bought a measurement microphone to use with my phone to perform a frequency sweep of the car speakers but I havent got round to using it yet and I'm not even sure of the best way to do it.

Edited 26 June, 20241 yr by mccririck

Not sure if you’ve got an iOS device to hand, but HouseCurve is a really easy way of doing the frequency sweep measurements, as the mics in the phones are supposedly very flat / of known compensation. I believe it can use an external mic too with the right adapter (although I don’t know how the response is handled here)

26 minutes ago, bdavbdav said:

Not sure if you’ve got an iOS device to hand, but HouseCurve is a really easy way of doing the frequency sweep measurements, as the mics in the phones are supposedly very flat / of known compensation. I believe it can use an external mic too with the right adapter (although I don’t know how the response is handled here)

I do have an iPhone work phone but if rather use the measurement microphone plugged into my android device.

I note the 5.4 only has 4ch + sub - do you loose the centre or does the stock HU drive this (do you have to bridge anything on the loom?)

The center is not connected in my skoda, there is no speaker there

It’s there on my VRS (UK 2023 car). 
 

Not sure where it’s fed from (I suspect the SOS unit), as it’s not one of the outputs of the infotainment unit in the speaker output section. 
 

Anyway, it plays very quietly as can be sometimes heard for half a second when starting the car before the DSP kicks in with the other speakers. After that it’s not noticeable. But you’re right the 5.4DSP does each door (tweeter and mid) and the sub output.

 

The guy who did my DSP tuning said it didn’t really cause any dramas with tuning the sound, which is lucky I guess. 

I think I may need to find someone to do the DSP tuning. I keep fuzzing with it (bought the proper UMIK-1, got an audio interface to do the AISA on the match properly, and get it to the stage I’m alright-ish with it on the driveway, but the moment I’m out and about it just feels tinny to me. 

@Luccie_007 or @Baeblade, would you be able to share the saved amp profile for the M5.4 if at all possible? Chasing my tail on EQ’ing this thing properly, and not sure if its just me or an unpredictable EQ output on the MIB

Wll i noticed you should also do the input EQ,  as the MIB ****s that up.

So set your settings to Front Audio focus in MIB,

 

These were my files during holiday, meaning NO SUB, as it had to be removed due to space problems

 

But i do have this -6dB filter installed on the tweeter, so i wonder of that works for you. GLADEN HG-CR-ONE

These are made with an UMIK1  as i bought a second hand one, its sounds more clear than my Auddyssey microphone i used before from my Denon receiver.

 

5 sub FR RE.afpx 5 no sub FR RE.afpx 5 no sub.afpx

Edited 10 October, 20241 yr by Luccie_007

Thanks so much for posting these!

 

I was going to buy a UMIK - I think it’s probably a good investment (and I can use it at home too). 
 

I had real trouble with the input EQ. The auto tune was hopeless, and I’m struggling not to get it “peaky”. I guess the output EQ also sorts out a lot of the issues not fixed in input EQ

Interesting @Luccie_007- your output EQ looks a lot less peaky than mine (originally done with a borrowed UMIK). To my ear, my setup sounds like it’s missing huge chunks. Going to try your tune (and buy my own UMIK!)

Hi All,

Sorry for replying an old post, but I found this tread via Google when I was looking for a setup to Match 5.4 DSP amp. I have Octavia 4 sedan 2022 with a OEM basic (columbus?) sound system, stock speakers. I installed a Match 5.4DSP and Match PPQ8 subwoofer plus URC3. 12V directly from the battery so using High power mode.

I got the sound, all is working well but to be honest, I have no idea how to set all the things like they should be… Music doesn’t sound terrible, but still thinking is there something I’m missing.

So the question. Does anyone have an .afpx-file to share for good/nice settings to the Octavia 4  for the same Match + Sub configuration? I will try some tricks told in this tread but learning will take forever...

Thanks for the help.

-T