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Remap for my estate


Liam0602

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No idea if the 1.2 can handle having never owned one but I don't doubt it can. 

I had my MkI 1.9 TDi on a rolling round and for a PD100 it mad 125hp without any mods. A remap then saw it at 154bhp and that engine was fine. Much grinning from the driver in his car leaving a few others with red faces at the lights (all legally of course ;)

So, hopefully others will let you know if the engine can handle it and I'm saying it's totally worth it. 

 

Edited by @Lee
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1 minute ago, @Lee said:

No idea if the 1.2 can handle having never owned one but I don't doubt it can. 

I had my MkI 1.9 TDi on a rolling round and for a PD100 it mad 125hp without any mods. A remap then saw it at 154bhp and that engine was fine. Much grinning from the driver in his car leaving a few others with red faces at the lights (all legally of course ;)

So, hopefully others will let you know if the engine can handle it and I'm saying it's totally worth it. 

 

 You say doubt doubt? Do you mean you doubt it can handle it?

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Just now, @Lee said:

Typo. 'don't doubt'. Phone, phat fingers. Post edited 👍

Just worried that the parts after a year or two will be broke and cost me a lot because of it being too much for the engine and clutch 

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2 minutes ago, Liam0602 said:

Just worried that the parts after a year or two will be broke and cost me a lot because of it being too much for the engine and clutch 

You're going for what's known as a stage 1 remap. I've not known anyone break their car after a stage 1. Blocks, heads, pistons, turbos are all mass manufactured. Hell, even VAG use the same kit across various models with different maps to cater for different engine codes with different power levels. 

It's wise to do your research before remapping but I personally don't see you running into any problems other than failing to inform the insurance company. 

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Just now, @Lee said:

You're going for what's known as a stage 1 remap. I've not known anyone break their car after a stage 1. Blocks, heads, pistons, turbos are all mass manufactured. Hell, even VAG use the same kit across various models with different maps to cater for different engine codes with different power levels. 

It's wise to do your research before remapping but I personally don't see you running into any problems other than failing to inform the insurance company. 

Oh cool, I know a lot about cars but engines and remapping etc is not my forte, I’m young so expensed like breaking parts because of a remap are def something I want to avoid, but I’d really enjoy the extra power tbh

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10 minutes ago, Liam0602 said:

Oh cool, I know a lot about cars but engines and remapping etc is not my forte, I’m young so expensed like breaking parts because of a remap are def something I want to avoid, but I’d really enjoy the extra power tbh

Best advice is ring around a few reputable mappers and avoiding any fly boys on Facebook or wherever who say they can do you a decent Remap for a few quid. They can't and those are the ones to definitely avoid. I don't know who the current go to guys are now but it used to be Shark Performance, Celtic Tuning or Darkside Developments. 

A decent Remap is what you want and those guys could/ can do that so talk to them or email them for quotes/ advice.

A bad remap done badly by some idiot with a laptop for £50 is definitely not advisable. 

 

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Just now, @Lee said:

Best advice is ring around a few reputable mappers and avoiding any fly boys on Facebook or wherever who say they can do you a decent Remap for a few quid. They can't and those are the ones to definitely avoid. I don't know who the current go to guys are now but it used to be Shark Performance, Celtic Tuning or Darkside Developments. 

A decent Remap is what you want and those guys could/ can do that so talk to them or email them for quotes/ advice.

A bad remap done badly by some idiot with a laptop for £50 is definitely not advisable. 

 

It’s funny you mention them as Celtic Tuning in newquay is where I’m going ha

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4 minutes ago, Liam0602 said:

It’s funny you mention them as Celtic Tuning in newquay is where I’m going ha

They'll see you right. If you've any questions  they'll answer them. Good luck 👍

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1 minute ago, Liam0602 said:

I see some people saying they fake numbers and over power the engines though?

You get that with any mapper/ tuning service. There's always gonna be haters moaning. Celtic have a good track record from what I've seen in my almost 14 years on this site. Not that I've used them myself, they were too far away but they have a decent reputation.

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16 hours ago, Liam0602 said:

Hi I’ve just gotten a 1.2 TSI Fabia estate 16 plate,

In that case forget any expensive cosmetics and perhaps mapping for now instead check or carry out a full and proper service of the car and drive it to get used to what you like and don't like about it, I'd give it 6-12 months - plus you might need the money for other stuff on the car.  Think about improving parts and components as the existing tire or failure.  Not all improvements are improvements and some can make matters worse.

 

We've all been there, eager to go through the catalogue of improvements yo find some , or all, don't satisfy.

 

Unfortunately it's often easier to learn by our own mistakes than by the mistakes others tell us about but those could save us lots of time, trouble and money I went out of the thousands of pounds of improvements and "improvement" many years back.

 

Good luck.

 

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14 hours ago, @Lee said:

You get that with any mapper/ tuning service

Not all but rarer to find honest figures, most run ego gauges to get more work and give the customers what they crave, telling the truth upsets many customers and they go off to those that will tell them what they want to hear.

 

Most only want highest power figures rather than real world usable torque - and anyway  less power can be more rewarding but modern cars are so big and heavy and all the electronic assistance make the driver more remote from the drive.

 

But it's horses for courses (or as many horses as you can get).  😊 

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The 1.2lt 108bhp (81kW), is a 4 cylinder EA211 engine...basically a simpler version of my engine, with a shorter bore & stroke, smaller turbo, etc...

 

From the factory its designed to run mainly on 95RON unleaded, & can use 91RON in an emergency....(like my car & most VAG cars)...

 

A simple remap will do the following:-

Tell the electronic wastegate actuator for the turbo to remain closed for longer...thus increasing the "boost" on the cold air side into the engine.

 

A good remap will also:-

Alter the fuel pump duration as VAG strangle the fuel pumps at factory..

 

Optional with a good remap:-

Advance the firing of the spark plugs so that the car now runs mainly on 98RON, & can use 95RON in an emergency.

 

(All remaps should alter the fuel injection to suit the boost applied, and/or spark plug firing)

 

Remember that the clutch Nm (torque) rating & gearbox rating from the factory is for the car fully laden going up hill, i.e. the worst possible case.....if you mainly use the car empty & don't do standing race starts you'll be fine with more torque...

 

I ended up going with a Revo stage 1 map as its a good all round map...not focused on stupid high figures!!.......but the "B" version which alters the timing for 98RON as I always use super unleaded (Shell vpower) in my car...so I might as well have the car set up correctly for it!...

 

Edited by fabdavrav
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5 minutes ago, fabdavrav said:

The 1.2lt 108bhp (81kW), is a 4 cylinder EA211 engine...basically a simpler version of my engine, with a shorter bore & stroke, smaller turbo, etc...

 

From the factory its designed to run mainly on 95RON unleaded, & can use 91RON in an emergency....(like my car & most VAG cars)...

 

A simple remap will do the following:-

Tell the electronic wastegate actuator for the turbo to remain closed for longer...thus increasing the "boost" on the cold air side into the engine.

 

A good remap will also:-

Alter the fuel pump duration as VAG strangle the fuel pumps at factory..

 

Optional with a good remap:-

Advance the firing of the spark plugs so that the car now runs mainly on 98RON, & can use 95RON in an emergency.

 

(All remaps should alter the fuel injection to suit the boost applied, and/or spark plug firing)

 

Remember that the clutch Nm (torque) rating & gearbox rating from the factory is for the car fully laden going up hill, i.e. the worst possible case.....if you mainly use the car empty & don't do standing race starts you'll be fine with more torque...

 

I ended up going with a Revo stage 1 map as its a good all round map...not focused on stupid high figures!!.......but the "B" version which alters the timing for 98RON as I always use super unleaded (Shell vpower) in my car...so I might as well have the car set up correctly for it!...

 

So judging by that your saying it’ll be safe to do as my car is mainly empty with golf clubs in the back and maybe 1 other person, it was serviced and passed back in September so it’s a fairly new service too for the parts side of things

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16 minutes ago, Liam0602 said:

So judging by that your saying it’ll be safe to do as my car is mainly empty with golf clubs in the back and maybe 1 other person, it was serviced and passed back in September so it’s a fairly new service too for the parts side of things

 

As safe as any tuning.....if you get a good map it will make the car as it should/could have been from the factory....& much more enjoyable to drive...

 

Many people just get cheap stage 1 maps which just "turn the boost up" & do standing starts all the time, i.e. traffic light racing....or they go for stage 2 or 3.....& then when they hit problems they just get a stronger clutch....& then the next item that fails is the open differential in the gearbox....

 

Thats why I haven't gone for more power (than stage 1-B) as I'd fit a stronger clutch & also a Wavetrak LSD....& both items are £££££

 

 

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13 minutes ago, fabdavrav said:

 

As safe as any tuning.....if you get a good map it will make the car as it should/could have been from the factory....& much more enjoyable to drive...

 

Many people just get cheap stage 1 maps which just "turn the boost up" & do standing starts all the time, i.e. traffic light racing....or they go for stage 2 or 3.....& then when they hit problems they just get a stronger clutch....& then the next item that fails is the open differential in the gearbox....

 

Thats why I haven't gone for more power (than stage 1-B) as I'd fit a stronger clutch & also a Wavetrak LSD....& both items are £££££

 

 

I’m going with Celtic tuning, I’ve seen a lot say there highly reputable and I’m only going for stage 1 then will be upgrading parts but am leaving it at stage 1, is that a good idea?

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1 hour ago, Liam0602 said:

I’m going with Celtic tuning, I’ve seen a lot say there highly reputable and I’m only going for stage 1 then will be upgrading parts but am leaving it at stage 1, is that a good idea?

 

I've heard of Celtic tuning.....I have no opinion of them..so can't say if they are good or bad...as don't know enough about them....

 

Their map states:-

130BHP & 155lbft

 

Stock for your engine is 108BHP & 129lbft (175Nm)

 

I have had a look at their website & it does not state if the remap requires 98RON...so it looks like a 95RON map...you'd have to ask them...

 

Revo on the other hand offer 3 different maps....95RON, 97RON, & 98RON....

95RON is 125BHP & 179lbft (243Nm)

98RON is 133BHP & 189lbft (256Nm)

 

REVO Stage 1 Software for a SKODA Fabia MK3 (2015 >) 1.2 TSI | Only REVO

 

Basically with the Revo stage 1 (95RON), you get less BHP than the Celtic tuning, but way more torque....

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19 hours ago, @Lee said:

VAG use the same kit across various models with different maps to cater for different engine codes with different power levels. 

 

Spot on, its only on the highest outputs that things like turbos, injectors etc may get changed, the lower ones are simply to align with the emissions or fiscal horsepower ratings in various countries.

18 hours ago, Liam0602 said:

I see some people saying they fake numbers and over power the engines though?

 

I am a very satisfied customer, I went for the highest stage of tune for my 108hp engine, I dont care if it is or isn't 186hp it pulls like a train has a great torque spread and still retains great fuel economy when driven sensibly, I don't know what you mean by "overpower the engine" but mine is not peaky, has far more low down torque and a more useable rev range than before and has not broken anything.

 

OK the DMF made disturbing  noises at max revs but it was already like that, the engine could not reach anywhere near the same revs on the old map, replacing the DMF made a world of difference.

 

Any power increase will always show up any other weaknesses.

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18 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

Spot on, its only on the highest outputs that things like turbos, injectors etc may get changed, the lower ones are simply to align with the emissions or fiscal horsepower ratings in various countries.

 

I am a very satisfied customer, I went for the highest stage of tune for my 108hp engine, I dont care if it is or isn't 186hp it pulls like a train has a great torque spread and still retains great fuel economy when driven sensibly, I don't know what you mean by "overpower the engine" but mine is not peaky, has far more low down torque and a more useable rev range than before and has not broken anything.

 

OK the DMF made disturbing  noises at max revs but it was already like that, the engine could not reach anywhere near the same revs on the old map, replacing the DMF made a world of difference.

 

Any power increase will always show up any other weaknesses.

Basically just don’t want my parts to blow up or break haha

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If you drive with mechanical sympathy and listen to the vehicle and not a blaring stereo then you maximise your chances of reliability.

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5 minutes ago, Liam0602 said:

Basically just don’t want my parts to blow up or break haha

 

You have a 7yr old car...it will/may do this just sitting on the driveway!....🤷‍♂️.....😂

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3 hours ago, Liam0602 said:

it was serviced and passed back in September so it’s a fairly new service too for the parts side of things

There's full and proper servicing of the whole car and there's Dealership engine oil & filter change and "free visual health check", have you got a full past servicing history to see what's been done and when and what might have tardy and/or missed.

 

Usually better to get any tuning done after the car is fully sorted as it is, first make sure the brakes, steering, suspension (all include tyres) are good and any driving or safety electrics.

 

Other way to increase power to weight is to lighten the car - so throw those golf clubs out. 😄  (I imagined you as being younger than 50. 😄)

 

You'll do as you think but you've had a lot of good advice in your threads.  Good luck.

 

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