Please can someone tell me how I bleed this nipple and what size spanner thankyou.

20240408_193200.heic

Your attachment doesn't open.

 

In the following video the size appear to be 11mm he says some are 10mm, the guy 'HatBoyHarvey' seems to make good videos on the mk1 Fabia, he shows two methods, a version of two-person and container (jar) this can also be adapted to done by one-person, ask if you want details, and one person pressure system which many favour (but nnot me).  

 

Or you can ask on the Mk1 Fabia forum on this site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/26-skoda-fabia-mk-i-1999-2007/

 

HTH.

 

SKODA FABIA Brake Bleeding and Fluid Change (MK1 99-07) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNg_0Fg_Hso

 

 

19 hours ago, Natalie1982 said:

 

20240408_193200.heic 1.63 MB · 5 downloads

 

6 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Your attachment doesn't open.

@Natalie1982 You posted a .heic format file, you need to convert to .mp3 before posting for most people to be able to see photos (I can see it at the moment because I'm currently on a MacBook which can open .heic files but very few Windows PCs can open them).

Here's the pic from Natalie's attachment:

 

 

Gaz

9 minutes ago, Gaz said:

Here's the pic from Natalie's attachment:

 

 

Gaz

Thankyou.

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Your attachment doesn't open.

 

In the following video the size appear to be 11mm he says some are 10mm, the guy 'HatBoyHarvey' seems to make good videos on the mk1 Fabia, he shows two methods, a version of two-person and container (jar) this can also be adapted to done by one-person, ask if you want details, and one person pressure system which many favour (but nnot me).  

 

Or you can ask on the Mk1 Fabia forum on this site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/26-skoda-fabia-mk-i-1999-2007/

 

HTH.

 

SKODA FABIA Brake Bleeding and Fluid Change (MK1 99-07) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNg_0Fg_Hso

 

 

I watched the videos it didn't appear to be the same as mine.

Edited 9 April, 20242 yr by Natalie1982

Your photo looks like it might be of a rear brake drum, in a very quick skim through the 'HatBoyHarvey' vid I think his brakes were all discs so that might be the difference and perhaps the bleed nipple on your brake drum is 10mm.

 

When you have the pipe on and bleed nipple(s) open before pushing the brake pedal (if you are going to push the pedal) or fixing up pressure thing, put some grease around the now exposed threads on the bleed nipple(s) and that will help not to draw air past the threads and into the system and fluid moving in the tube.   

My Yeti was 11mm.

But am I missing something here, what size spanner ?

Whatever size fits, I often make a look at guess, often close but I just grap the next size up or down as necessary.  Do that with spanners and sockets to use the one that fits.

I must be misunderstanding the question.

It's something very small, like 7 or 8mm Natalie, off the top of my head. Very easy to shear off, I know from experience..

I think it's the very thin metal,  plus the difficulty of avoiding putting any bending force onto it while working semi-blind round the back of the drum there.

 

Edited 9 April, 20242 yr by Breezy_Pete
More thoughts

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

It's something very small, like 7 or 8mm Natalie, off the top of my head. Very easy to shear off, I know from experience..

I think it's the very thin metal,  plus the difficulty of avoiding putting any bending force onto it while working semi-blind round the back of the drum there.

 

I tried a 6 it was still to big haven't got anything smaller at the minute 🙃 

3 hours ago, nta16 said:

Your photo looks like it might be of a rear brake drum, in a very quick skim through the 'HatBoyHarvey' vid I think his brakes were all discs so that might be the difference and perhaps the bleed nipple on your brake drum is 10mm.

 

When you have the pipe on and bleed nipple(s) open before pushing the brake pedal (if you are going to push the pedal) or fixing up pressure thing, put some grease around the now exposed threads on the bleed nipple(s) and that will help not to draw air past the threads and into the system and fluid moving in the tube.   

The front are different to the back they were 11ml but rounded very bad, back are less than a 6ml I have not been able to remove any so far 😀 

Edited 9 April, 20242 yr by Natalie1982

Thankyou for your replies I am a complete novice with cars plus I don't want to do anything and possibly make things worse or break anything so If my question seems a bit dumb or obvious I do apologise I'm just learning she's my first car thankyou for being patient and helping 😁

Edited 9 April, 20242 yr by Natalie1982

Looking at your photo again the nipple against the feed pipe the nipple is very small, but I'd have thought 7mm would be the smallest size but perhaps that bleed nipple isn't original to the car and brake drum.

 

You don't want to round the nipples off like the idiot did to the front,

 

To get the nipple open you need to

1. clean around the base of the nipple and threads and the spanner/socket flats on the nipple to get the large bits of muck off perhaps with a pick or small flat-bladed (slotted) screwdriver
2. then finer cleaning with white spirit/petrol/brake-cleaner and perhaps an old toothbrush or similar and rag
3. allow to dry or dry off
4. perhaps use a small wire brush to get any remaining stuff/rust off
5. then apply (soak) a *penetrating/releasing agent* to the base of threads and leave to soak in overnight, or more (the secret is time and patience)
6. this gives you plenty of time to find a spanner or tool to fit
7. next day with correct tool you can see if the nipple loosens off, if not redo 4, 5, and 7.

It may be than any spanner or tool that small may not have enough give you enough length for sufficient leverage but be very careful about extending the leverage length too much and loosing the feel and breaking the nipple. 

 

*penetrating/releasing agent* - this could be GT85, PlusGas or if you have it my least favourite WD-40 (not such a long lasting lubricant)

https://www.plusgas.co.uk/en-gb

 

https://gt85.co.uk/

 

Be very careful not to break the nipple off, you must look, see and feel if the nipple and it's thread are actually moving, if so you can apply a little more penetrating/releasing fluid (GT85 is good as it's also a lubricant fluid.  Once you know you can loosen and tighten back up again the nipple you can then think about bleeding (better still changing the brake fluid, flush and  and bleed.

 

If the front nipple has been rounded then perhaps its best to replace the nipple with a new nipple.

 

As put sometimes different spanners of the same size (or different size) can be a better fit.  I bought a 7mm spanner especially for a bleed nipple and it wasn't as good a fit as I hoped but it done the job, if yours is less than 7mm you could try another 6mm (or 1'4" if you know anyone that has very old British cars) I can't see it being 5mm/3/16".

 

Try the clean, soak & leave and let us know how you get on.

 

Edited 9 April, 20242 yr by nta16
size

Original rear bleed valves show as requiring a 7 mm spanner - as quoted earlier.

 

Original is definitely 7mm.

12 hours ago, nta16 said:

Looking at your photo again the nipple against the feed pipe the nipple is very small, but I'd have thought 7mm would be the smallest size but perhaps that bleed nipple isn't original to the car and brake drum.

 

You don't want to round the nipples off like the idiot did to the front,

 

To get the nipple open you need to

1. clean around the base of the nipple and threads and the spanner/socket flats on the nipple to get the large bits of muck off perhaps with a pick or small flat-bladed (slotted) screwdriver
2. then finer cleaning with white spirit/petrol/brake-cleaner and perhaps an old toothbrush or similar and rag
3. allow to dry or dry off
4. perhaps use a small wire brush to get any remaining stuff/rust off
5. then apply (soak) a *penetrating/releasing agent* to the base of threads and leave to soak in overnight, or more (the secret is time and patience)
6. this gives you plenty of time to find a spanner or tool to fit
7. next day with correct tool you can see if the nipple loosens off, if not redo 4, 5, and 7.

It may be than any spanner or tool that small may not have enough give you enough length for sufficient leverage but be very careful about extending the leverage length too much and loosing the feel and breaking the nipple. 

 

*penetrating/releasing agent* - this could be GT85, PlusGas or if you have it my least favourite WD-40 (not such a long lasting lubricant)

https://www.plusgas.co.uk/en-gb

 

https://gt85.co.uk/

 

Be very careful not to break the nipple off, you must look, see and feel if the nipple and it's thread are actually moving, if so you can apply a little more penetrating/releasing fluid (GT85 is good as it's also a lubricant fluid.  Once you know you can loosen and tighten back up again the nipple you can then think about bleeding (better still changing the brake fluid, flush and  and bleed.

 

If the front nipple has been rounded then perhaps its best to replace the nipple with a new nipple.

 

As put sometimes different spanners of the same size (or different size) can be a better fit.  I bought a 7mm spanner especially for a bleed nipple and it wasn't as good a fit as I hoped but it done the job, if yours is less than 7mm you could try another 6mm (or 1'4" if you know anyone that has very old British cars) I can't see it being 5mm/3/16".

 

Try the clean, soak & leave and let us know how you get on.

 

Thankyou I will try over the next few days. I was thinking maybe having them all replaced if I get the car back up and running will make life easier in the long run. Thanks again.

12 hours ago, nta16 said:

Original rear bleed valves show as requiring a 7 mm spanner - as quoted earlier.

 

 

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Original is definitely 7mm.

I tried a 6m on both back it didn't catch I think they have been changed by somone previously  I could be wrong but they're definitely not a 7m or a 6m annoyingly I didn't have anything smaller 🙃. 

A 20+ year old car could have a lot of non-originals bits on it and possibly convenience or force fit parts.

 

Once cleaned up a socket and hand/t-bar over the fitting can be the way to go as you can then feel better what is happening, you may need a deep socket to get over the nipple head on a size that small. Always remember when doing a job for yourself there are no prizes (other than ego boasting that many seem to like) for how quick you can do a job so always allow at least treble the time you may think it might take you to do the job and that way if you complete it sooner then that's good but if you take a lot longer, so wot.  Always try do a good job, many professionals only do a quick job.  If possible allow for having to walk away from the job, or be held up by something, for a while, anyway there are many better things to be doing than farting-about with cars.

 

20 hours ago, nta16 said:

Original rear bleed valves show as requiring a 7 mm spanner - as quoted earlier.

 

 

10 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Original is definitely 7mm.

 

@Natalie1982 As these guys say, you need a 7mm spanner for OEM bleed nipples. I would recommend trying to find a single hexagon (6 points only) ring spanner for this job because it's unlikely to slip and round off the head.

On 10/04/2024 at 19:23, Paws4Thot said:

 

@Natalie1982 As these guys say, you need a 7mm spanner for OEM bleed nipples. I would recommend trying to find a single hexagon (6 points only) ring spanner for this job because it's unlikely to slip and round off the head.

I will do thanks going to bleed tomorrow.

11 minutes ago, Natalie1982 said:

I will do thanks going to bleed tomorrow.

Actually, further thought occurs. If you contact a competent tool factor or motor factor (so not Halfrauds) and tell them you want a "brake bleed spanner" they will probably offer a 6mm/7mm single hexagon ring spanner.

2 hours ago, Paws4Thot said:

Actually, further thought occurs. If you contact a competent tool factor or motor factor (so not Halfrauds) and tell them you want a "brake bleed spanner" they will probably offer a 6mm/7mm single hexagon ring spanner.

I will do that then thanks 🙂

I've been happy with the Halfords Advanced stuff I've had.

 

6mm and 7mm Halfords Advanced Combination Spanner with Surface Drive Plus ("An average of 28% more torque before rounding on the open end") - £3.29  - https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/spanners-and-wrenches/halfords-advanced-combination-spanner-with-surface-drive-plus-712414.html

 

They don't do 6 or 7mm but do 11mm - Halfords Advanced Flare Spanner - 9mm/11mm - £5.29 - https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/spanners-and-wrenches/halfords-professional-flare-spanner-228251.html

 

Good luck.

 

Edited 11 April, 20242 yr by nta16
ETA: prices

Just now, nta16 said:

I've been happy with the Halfords Advanced stuff I've had.

 

6mm and 7mm  Halfords Advanced Combination Spanner with Surface Drive Plus ("An average of 28% more torque before rounding on the open end")

  - https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/spanners-and-wrenches/halfords-advanced-combination-spanner-with-surface-drive-plus-712414.html

 

They don't do 6 or 7mm but do 11mm - Halfords Advanced Flare Spanner - 9mm/11mm -https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/spanners-and-wrenches/halfords-professional-flare-spanner-228251.html

 

Good luck.

 

Thankyou. I put my old abs pump back on tonight it was not fun trying not to cross thread those bolts there were a few swears being thrown at it 😆 I'm hoping the breaks don't break me when I try to bleed tomorrow 🙃

Well done.

 

As I used to try to explain to my wife some things on a car just won't fit unless you swear at them.  She tells everyone that when I do this I only use four swear words but I use them in rapid repeats, which is true.  All my neighbours know not to approach me if I'm working on one of our cars but I will happily stop and talk if I'm doing (small, easy) jobs on my neighbour's car - and I've never like VWs (except Golf GTi Mk1).

 

You posses some fabulous delicate precision instruments known as your hands and fingers, use those where you can before using other tools, and use manual tools in preference to power tools where you can.

 

For work and diagnosis also use your touch, eyes, ears, nose (even taste sometimes but beware) often these can tell you stuff the computers can't - but also use your own computer, your brain, especially to confirm anything a computer tells you.

 

Brakes are a very dirty business but you want to keep things clean whilst working on them.  Once you've opened a bottle of brake fluid don't keep any remaining too long, once you know for sure you don't need any for top up from this job dispose of the unused fluid along with the drained/spilt fluid.  I only put tonight that this is the 21st century yet we have to put up with this nasty stuff for brake fluid mainly because it's so cheap for the car manufacturers and car trade to use, ancient technology in the same way as the internal combustion engine.    

Edited 12 April, 20242 yr by nta16
spelling