Hi all hope you can help recently bought a fabia estate mk3 monte carlo had a safety inspection done and was told the purge valve had a broken hose but that it wouldn't be a major issue and would be fine to use until repaired. Since then upon start it idles between 1500-2000 for about 30 secs then drops to 800-1000 and today the emission light came on I opened the bonnet to see what I could and discovered this I've tried to identify the part but can't don't think it's the purge valve, looks like it should be a straight replacement but not sure where or what part I need to order.

Any help

Hello, welcome to the forum.

I'll take a look at SWMBOs Fabia tomorrow - is this a 95 or 110PS, what year?

Hi its a 2019 fabia estate monte carlo 95ps.

Cheers

Unfortunately, no help from our 2018 110PS - for confirmation, assuming yours is a RHD vehicle - is this component in the vicinity of the offside engine mount?

You are making a couple of assumptions, that your EPC light has come on because of an earlier reported broken hose on a purge valve and that the hose you have identified is said item.

The latter is probably correct, the former in doubt, the first thing you should do is have the fault codes read.

Thanks for the help took it back to showroom they replaced purge valve cleared fault and no more faults showing, but still idles high for 30 secs.

High idle for short period after start is normal - appears to be much more noticeable on the 1.0TSI than on my 1.4.

Hi, I'm having codes P0441 and P04f0 on my 1.0TSI which I've been told could be the purge valve. How much was the replacement? I'm having trouble finding the part online so may have to take to it to the dealer.

Hi, welcome.

If you are just asking for purge valve costs for ideas only that's fine but do not replace the part just on the error codes (sorry I've no idea of costs but others might/will).

Ross Tech 16825/P0441/001089 - https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16825/P0441/001089

Be careful with error codes as they are not always full or final diagnostics and need checking, cross referencing to confirm anyway, it may end up with you replacing that part but it needs checking first.

I'm not saying these have been taken and given incorrectly but the code reader / scan tool does need to be VW appropriate and its program correct for your model and age of car and that program up to date before any readings taken (many users are too lazy or pushed for time to do this), and the car's 12v battery and if appropriate tool battery need to be in a reasonable state of charge otherwise spurious readings can be given.

Easy things to do are check the fuel filler cap is tightly secured and seal(s) look good and that the area and drain hole aren't full of dirt debris.

Have you overfilled the fuel tank recently or fairly recently?

Were the error codes cleared and then returned?

HTH.

Hi nta16, thanks for your reply.

Yes it was more just an idea of how much it would cost to replace the purge valve.

I usually fill til the first click but don't overfill.

I have wondered about the fuel cap as it only takes a half turn before it clicks. All previous cars have taken a couple of turns to lock into place. Not sure if this is just usual on this model? I have cleaned it previously and the error codes took longer to come back but may have been coincidence.

The codes first appeared a day after filling up and sometimes clear themselves or are cleared with a code reader then return after a few drive cycles.

Usually the codes appear separately but on a couple of occasions together.

First click and no further is a good idea.

The cap if it clicks and continues to click as you turn it more but felt firmly on at first click (of cap) then that's how the cap might be. You could try cleaning and lubricating the inside of the cap to see if that makes any odds as fantastic-plastic to metal parts do sometimes age and stiffen up. The oil filler cap on my wife's Fabia is now stiff, (metal) oil filler caps would last decades/life of engine on all the other (non-German) cars we've ever had.

Cleaning the fuel filler cap shouldn't make any odds but if you repeat the process and get the same result it might be significant.

There could be more than one cause contributing to one or both error codes and warnings.

Is there more information, scan tool report, error codes, freeze frames, live data, service history, parts fitted or work done on the car (before these codes).

All pipes, hoses, trunking, connectors need to be securely held and connected, without cracks.

Time for tea /dinner . . .

Oil filler caps going stiff, yes, typical, usually the sealing washer has gone hard - possibly can't buy new sealing washers by themselves nowadays.

Dip sticks also can be a part that get stiff too quickly, the 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra that my older daughter has owned from new - when I changed the oil last year, one of the 2 clips/grips on the dip stick broke off and escaped so that is that.

On her early 2002 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 8V, it was the orange dip stick tube that deformed with age - went from round to oval, so that needed changing to make removing the dip stick an easyish task. I never had that issue with my wife's 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V which looked slightly similar in that area - maybe SEAT sourced local (Spain) parts that were not quite good enough, though I don't know which marque controlled the engine plant for that old engine in Ibiza, possibly VW in Germany but that is just a guess.

11 hours ago, rum4mo said:

Oil filler caps going stiff, yes, typical, usually the sealing washer has gone hard - possibly can't buy new sealing washers by themselves nowadays.

It seems more to be the mechanism but I've got a feeling you can get the sealing washer so may try that.

A couple of years ago I got a new Febi oil filler cap to replace the Merc marked one on my neighbour's 33 year old Merc, I don't know if the previous cap was factory fitted or not but it took pliers to get it off, I wasn't over impressed with the Febi replacement. Febi probably just put their name to it and it made by another elsewhere.

Hi all,

It is nice to have a topic like this, I am looking for it for a long time. Right now, my skoda fabia 3 combi has nearly the same issue.

The Check Engine Light comes up, and then we checked it, it is a P0441 error. But we dont clear it. After running for some days, the light disappear. Then a few weeks, it come back again.

Should I care about it? Or just let it like that?

So I took my car to a VAG specialist on 17th June and they diagnosed and replaced the AKF with pipework at a cost of £210. Filled the car up yesterday, drove to work today and the engine light is back on with the same 2 codes.

I rang the garage back up and they have said that usually the AKF pipework is changed then the charcoal canister if the fault persists. This wasn't communicated at the time of agreeing to the original work and is going to cost another £180.

Not sure if its related but my sons fabia pinged up similar codes with eml on a few days ago. I assumed it was the valve that returns to canister. I cleared codes in meantime to check it wasnt a one of and ordered new valve but also noticed the brake servo hose was split. Repaired it and car now idles perfectly. Previuosly it was a up and down and so far no return of codes or eml. His is a late MK1 and the rigid hose from servo to manifold are prone to splitting over time.

Alasdair

18 hours ago, donuts83 said:

This wasn't communicated at the time of agreeing to the original work and is going to cost another £180.

If that's the case and they're a decent garage then they should charge for the charcoal canister and take any now additional installation time and cost as their mistake for poor communication.

On 21/05/2025 at 22:13, Khanh said:

Hi all,

It is nice to have a topic like this, I am looking for it for a long time. Right now, my skoda fabia 3 combi has nearly the same issue.

Hi Khanh, welcome, sorry your post got missed.

If your problem is still there then no don't ignore it as it might lead on to more. Have a look at the following for some more info perhaps. - https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16825/P0441/001089

HTH.

Been back along to the garage tonight so they could run diagnostics again. They said they usually just repair the AKF pipework on 1.0l models, as per the main dealer guidance they receive, and that resolves the fault. The main dealer guidance for the 1.5l model is to replace both parts together so they reckon this will solve the issue with mine but said its unusual on 1.0l models, apparently. They are still charging for labour but after checking the cost it will be £140 in total for the charcoal canister replacement and they said they will take it on a longer test drive afterwards and run diagnostics again to check its resolved the issue.

I have booked it in for next Friday so will update as to whether this has resolved the issue.

Out of interest I got a quote from the main dealer and the cost to replace both parts is £428.16, not including diagnostics. So far the VAG specialist is £350 including diagnostics.

Thanks for all the help and advice since its been replaced and serviced runs great, just after some ideas for mods now if anybody knows of any sites for after market parts.

Thanks

4 hours ago, moggsy said:

just after some ideas for mods now if anybody knows of any sites for after market parts.

Try these Briskoda forums -

'Fabia Projects' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/

'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/

HTH.