Can anyone help, my skoda octavia 2006 1.6 fsi keeps stalling, I've replaced the throttle body actuator, camshaft position sensor, vvt solenoid, map sensor, maf sensor, air filter, oil change and filter, fuel filter, o2 sensor. What else can it possible be

Have you checked the spark plugs?

19 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Have you checked the spark plugs?

Yeah I've replaced spark plugs and coils

Yeah spark plugs and coils were replaced aswell

Vacuum leak somewhere? Any check engine light?

1 hour ago, Robert@78 said:

Can anyone help, my skoda octavia 2006 1.6 fsi keeps stalling, I've replaced the high pressure fuel pump with cam follower, throttle body actuator, camshaft position sensor, vvt solenoid, map sensor, maf sensor, air filter, oil change and filter, fuel filter, o2 sensor, spark plugs and ignition coils What else can it possible be

17 minutes ago, VitesseEFI said:

Vacuum leak somewhere? Any check engine light?

I did have check engine light come on but since disabling the battery it has disappeared

19 minutes ago, VitesseEFI said:

Vacuum leak somewhere? Any check engine light?

Oh and I've had a look at the vacuum lines but don't see any signs of cracks/splits 😭

Stalls while idling or driving or both?

Crankcase "breather" valve faulty?

There might be plastic piping that sometimes crack and are almost invisible but these generally cause a fast idle. ( I think you've covered that, above)

Can you attach a vacuum gauge somewhere on the inlet manifold.?

Edited 13 January13 Jan by Johngerard

It does it when engine cold/hot idling and driving, but sometimes it drives fine for a few miles

On 14/01/2026 at 09:16, Robert@78 said:

It does it when engine cold/hot idling and driving, but sometimes it drives fine for a few miles

Can you describe how it cuts out.

Eg

Splutters

Looses power

Slowly dies off

How does the restart go?

Eg takes heaps to get going or starts instantly

Sounds electrical to me

I would get it scanned with vcds and see if there are any random codes stored. It does sound electrical but could be fuel related. Check the strip fuses near battery compartment. If there individual check for hair line cracks/corosion etc. It could also be a failing relay for fuel pump etc.

Alasdair

4 hours ago, BlueWagon said:

Can you describe how it cuts out.

Eg

Splutters

Looses power

Slowly dies off

How does the restart go?

Eg takes heaps to get going or starts instantly

Sounds electrical to me

4 hours ago, BlueWagon said:

Can you describe how it cuts out.

Eg

Splutters

Looses power

Slowly dies off

How does the restart go?

Eg takes heaps to get going or starts instantly

Sounds electrical to me

It goes like a rough revs then dies aslo it starts fine but takes afew attempts but then it dies again and this can happen 10+ times

2 hours ago, Alasdair1 said:

I would get it scanned with vcds and see if there are any random codes stored. It does sound electrical but could be fuel related. Check the strip fuses near battery compartment. If there individual check for hair line cracks/corosion etc. It could also be a failing relay for fuel pump etc.

Alasdair

I've just brought one of those cheap obdll scanners as money is tight at the moment, just waiting to see if any check engine lights appear again, I will have a look at the fuses and relays and check them with my multi meter

Another thought might be did you code/calibrate the throttle body after replacing actuator? Not sure but think you need to use VCDS to tell the ECU the position etc.

If its not coded then it may lead to rough idling and stalling.

Alasdair

1 minute ago, Alasdair1 said:

Another thought might be did you code/calibrate the throttle body after replacing actuator? Not sure but think you need to use VCDS to tell the ECU the position etc.

If its not coded then it may lead to rough idling and stalling.

Alasdair

I was told to disconnect the battery for 30mins and let the cables touch each other to discharge the code, and then I connected them back together turned the engine over and let it idle for 20mins so the ecu could calibrate the throttle body

Think it may need VCDS or OBD2 to do it but came accross this on a VW forum. Not sure if it will work on yours but cant see the harm in trying.

1. Turn the key to the "ON" position, BUT DO NOT START THE CAR!
2. Leave the key in the "ON" position for 3 minutes WITHOUT TOUCHING ANYTHING.
3. After 3 minutes, turn key to the "OFF" position, then start the car as normal.

May have to be done with bonnet fully open.

Alasdair

Meant add disconnect battery neg for 15-20mins then reattach before the above procedure.

Alasdair

2 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

Think it may need VCDS or OBD2 to do it but came accross this on a VW forum. Not sure if it will work on yours but cant see the harm in trying.

1. Turn the key to the "ON" position, BUT DO NOT START THE CAR!
2. Leave the key in the "ON" position for 3 minutes WITHOUT TOUCHING ANYTHING.
3. After 3 minutes, turn key to the "OFF" position, then start the car as normal.

May have to be done with bonnet fully open.

Alasdair

OK brilliant thanks I

1 minute ago, Alasdair1 said:

Meant add disconnect battery neg for 15-20mins then reattach before the above procedure.

Alasdair

OK brilliant thanks I will give it a try

Still stalling can't find any vacuum leaks but I've noticed that it's mainly stalling when the engine has warmed up

Maybe a compression test in order?, it may, (hopefully not), be a sticking inlet valve.

It may be the throttle body as previous. I would get it properly calibrated with vcds to rule it out. There may well be someone on here local to you with it that could give the car a proper scan and calibrate it for you. If not then you may have to source a VAG specialist garage or at lease one that knows how to and get them to scan it. It may pinpoint a prroblem that your scanner is missing.

Alasdair

Was it a good quality crankshaft position sensor?

Just now, Morph said:

Was it a good quality crankshaft position sensor

Yeah it was 👍

1 minute ago, Robert@78 said:

  2 minutes ago, Morph said:

Was it a good quality crankshaft position sensor

Don’t want to send you down a hole but I have heard of new ones being faulty. Unlikely if it’s good quality but not unknown.