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Yes, it works, but I want to leave it like new since it could affect other things in the long run.

Does the car run like that??

I mean that the pump doesn't stop after 2 or 3 seconds, it stays on all the time, and that's because the previous owner left it permanently on.

Suggest reposting with a meaningful title and a description of what the thing is! Thread locked

@Joco776 Thank you, I am new to the forum and not able to send you DM😄

Thank you!

What do u mean directly?? if the engine dosnt flood with gas, my guess wuld be fuel pressure regulator just returning the gas in the gastank

Yeah. Adjust my settings a bit re car security, theft risk. Happy if these aren’t such a target. I’ve clearly become paranoid twitchy after 7 years with an R. Happy to have a simpler life and plenty other things to spend my £ on instead of locks, immobilisers, trackers and subscriptions.

These cars are generally EFB or EFB+. AGM batteries are often only in more expensive, or larger cars (with larger engines that need to be turned over). The SOS unit won’t be a paralytic draw. I suspect the battery is knackered - mine went after three years. I’m very kind to it now and regularly charge it. Get it drop tested at a local garage - don’t bother with Halfords, they’re most often a bunch of clowns, with increasingly fewer exceptions.

Or, as everyone around us (London) does, just install some bollards if the car is worth keeping. My car lives in the garage so theft isn’t really a concern for me. We have other cars on the driveway, etc, but if someone wants them, they’re welcome to them - that’s what insurance is for. One of them wears a steering lock, and the keys are put in faraday pouches. Aside from that, we’ve done all we can realistically do.

It’s also worth saying, regarding tyre rotation, that this isn’t always possible. My Octavia has standard geometry, but even then, the front camber (at least with the driving it sees) has a reasonably significant impact on tyre wear patterns. I wouldn’t put my fronts on the back. I’ll be getting two new rear soon, and those tyres will be going on the front. The front will be binned. There is a good 4-5mm on the outside shoulder, but I’m below 3mm on the inside shoulder. I’ll probably run them until autumn as the car doesn’t really go anywhere at the moment, and it’s nice and dry.

The problem I'm having is that the fuel pump is wired directly; I mean, when I turn the ignition switch on, the pump starts and doesn't turn off. I'd like to know the wiring diagram for this pump, how it's connected to the relay, and how I can fix this problem. Thank you very much.

You can also repair scuff marks with heat, but I would do some research before attempting this - it’s very easy to overdo!

Literally anything would be more useful than this. If we’re talking about the subframe bolts, note that these are stretch bolts and should really be changed.

We have the same in the UK market - it’s a non-cost option. My car has it ticked. I personally wouldn’t bother ticking it - one more thing to go wrong (as I’ve just found out) and the only time I use it is during slow traffic in heavy rain. I’m currently deciding whether to get a new motor or just delete it. Still not sure!

Small update. Spent today driving it and it’s certainly not 100% as it’s hunting on start up before settling down and there’s a bit of additional vibration in the cab at idle. (There always was a bit but it’s worse). There’s also a bit of a whistle noise which would certainly indicate a leak somewhere, possibly the intake manifold which may be causing the excessive suction in the crankcase. Here’s what it’s doing on start up

hello can i have the link?

@Richard80945 Maybe a title that gives a clue would be an idea. Or just post more what the job being done.

Thank you, will try tomorrow

Avoid AC like the plaque. Find an Automatic Gearbox Specialist then. Just not the one near Sherwood Garage (Car sales) Baillieston Rd. £375 should include the filter changed. I do not know these below. But there must be someone good someplace.

Rear tyres that have taken a shape can be hopeless moved to the front. Steering, braking, traction at the front is pretty damn essential. Try controlling back end or front end when the tyres are crap and should be scrapped. Real world, real rain, cold roads, Snow, FWD or RWD or 4x4 or part time AWD.

Yes, that's probably a good description of the driving feel.

Thanks for upload. Definitely gives an insight to my Issue :) The file can be opened in Excel. Here's what I put together after a quick look. Starting at timestamp 417.51. The first column is throttle valve angle, second is engine RPM, next is specified and actual boost. The actual boost value follows specified boost, except for engine speed under 2000RPM. Does it correlate with how the car feels?

If you've the time, and facilities, it's worth switching you tyres front to rear regularly (say every 6 - 7,000 miles). Tyre wear varies from wheel to wheel. This maximise the life of each tyre and ensure that the tyres wear uniformly. For uni-directional tyres, it's rears to fronts and fronts to rear - keeping the tyres on the same side. If you've got non-directional tyres you can cross the rears as you move them to the front (OR to NF, and NR to OF), but keep the fronts on the same side as you move them to the rear (OF to OR, NF to NR). As you say "Each to their own and live and let live etc", but you've got to 'live' to achieve that (as do your passengers, family members and other road users!). Tyres are arguable the most important safety equipment on any vehicle.

Try to reset the unit to factory settings.