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Can anyone help me? I have a Mk1 Octavia with a 1.8T AUM engine. I’ve been having a ‘P0172 System Too Rich Bank 1’ code pop up. i delete it and it only comes back months apart. thought nothing of it at first but popped up a few times recently. I’ve been down a rabbit hole on Google AI which has diagnosed my Air Mass sensor as needing replacement. It has come to this conclusion from me sharing the freeze frame data of the codes plus some live data that i got from the code reader at acceleration, 70mph and deceleration. I am aware to not fully trust what AI has told me so I thought i’d come on here to see if anyone has any ideas. Just gonna chuck in a few pics that show the data screen that has rpms, speed, long term fuel trim and MAF IMG_8168.heic IMG_8407.heic IMG_8404.heic IMG_8387.heic IMG_8397.heic

I had the misfortune of having to clean one of those, albeit a normal FIAT 500 last week. Absolute nightmare. They trap dirt and detritus everywhere. You flush and rinse and flush again and more crap keeps coming out from parts you cleaned five minutes ago. Never known a car to be so good at retaining crud.

I will give it a go. Thank you!

3m x 15mm / 22mm copper pipework and plastic waste pipes. That tablet stuck in the middle of the dashboard will prevent me feeding the pipes down the middle and resting them on a cloth on top of the dash. You made me think about that!

My previous Mk3 hatch had the fold-flat front passenger seat. Staff at my local builder's merchants were always astonished when the car easily swallowed 3m long planks of wood. I'm going to miss that now.

Don't worry @Arianne, kickdown does indeed override the limiter. It works intuitively when you naturally fully depress the loud pedal and it stays deactivated until the speed falls back below the set limit. Try it on a quiet road by setting the limiter artificially low and then flooring it. That will give you the confidence in the functionality for when you do need it. Alternatively, if you have time to think about it while preparing for an overtake, just flick off the limiter with the stalk and then re-engage it afterwards. That will let you accelerate past the limit point more gently if you need to.

Changed the oil and oil filter for the 6th time, since buying my Greenline Estate in March 2025. In that time I've taken it from 152,000 to 190,000 miles. This change was 2,000 miles earlier than my usual 8,000 mile interval. I wanted to get it done before the cold weather set in for the winter, as I hate doing car mechanicing when it's freezing.

Has the roll out of 6.0.1 been halted? My app said 'update due soon' for ages but it now says my 6.0.0 software is up to date, no mention of pending update.

@Coral-C Interesting. Like you, I think having the smart dial with the sport setting right beside the individual mode is excellent. I had something similar on our Velar until.....an over the air software update reassigned this function to the touchscreen. A sad day! Next time we are travelling over the hills of North Northumberland and the Scottish Borders, I will try the more extreme sports settings. I suspect this end of the DCC+ spectrum may prove self-defeating because the tyres may struggle for solid contact on the broken tarmac but it's worth the experiment. The speed limiter is an interesting subject. I can understand how you deploy it and why. I have considered this too as a countermeasure to getting snapped by a mobile camera etc. But I worry that I will forget it is active and then, just when I want a burst of speed for an overtaking manoeuvre, it stutters in a potentially dangerous situation. Or does it yield if you apply what we used to call kickdown? Best wishes.

...and the skis 😅

Hello everyone, I am having a strange problem with the electric windows in my Skoda Fabia Mk1 (specifically the 2006 model with 4 electric windows) and would appreciate some advice. Here is what happens when using the switches on the driver's door: When I open the front passenger's window, both rear windows close simultaneously. When I close the front passenger's window, both rear windows open simultaneously. I can not control either of the two rear windows. The switches don't seem to have any effect. They also feel feather light without any weight to them. The front passenger's window switch works perfectly, it opens and closes the window normally. As for the rear switches, their individual door switches can open the windows but they can not close them. I have already tried replacing the front driver's window motor twice, as a mechanic told me he was about 90% sure that it was the culprit. However, after replacing it, something even stranger happened: I could only open and close the front passenger's window using the driver's window switch. None of the other windows responded to the driver's switch at all. I haven't checked the wiring yet and, so I'm wondering whether damaged or crossed wires could be responsible. Another thing that might be worth mentioning is that the driver's window switch isn't genuine. I believe the other switches may be aftermarket as well but I also tried a genuine driver's switch and the problem remained the same. Has anyone experienced or come across anything similar? Could this be a wiring issue, a problem with the comfort control module, incorrect switch wiring, or something else entirely? I'm running out of ideas, so any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Searched a lot of topics over the past week or so A fair few comments say that superskoda don’t ship to the UK anymore Is this true as there a few things I need to buy off there

Legend

And the fishing tackle

Temperature issue. Currently getting issues still with my 2018 skoda octavia vrs dsg 2.0 tsi. I have replaced thermostat water pump belt and temp sensors all with original dealer parts. My car doesnt have a dsg incline thermostat as symptoms all lead to that potentially being the cause but confirmed it hasnt. On idle start up the car temp after 5-10mins slowly climbs to 90. Upon turning blowers on they are hot but within minutes the gauge slowly drops. Once i drive mostly at higher speeds rather then round doors the gauge then goes nearly back down eventually to near on 0. Has anyone expierenced this. After a day or 2 the eml tends to come back on. Literally cannot think of anything else along with mechanic. I tried a aftermarket thermostat previously to a dealer part but no diffrence. Could it be electrical. Its as if a brand new thermostat doesnt want to work. Thanks in advance

Dq250 is used in the 190ps 2.0tdi with 400nm torque so I’m sure it will be fine!

If it needed a hole cut around the pad, I thought maybe cut the hole large then fix a piece of rubber sheet (Old inner tube or something) to the cover with a hole in the rubber that sits snugly around the pad. A bit of a faff but probably worth the effort as only needs doing once and will help keep the worst of elements out. If you can check the fit over the pad when you do your job that would be appreciated. And do you think the Powerflex pads are just as good as the OE VW items? At half the price, it's only the OE modified cover at the front that is making me pause!

I had a Mercedes E Class E350 Premium Plus Estate for 8 years before I changed to my current Superb estate. It was a very nice car, extremely comfortable, fast when you wanted or needed it to be and at around 40 mpg reasonably economic for a 3 litre car weighing about 2 tonnes. It was reliable and not unusually expensive to maintain. I had a Mercedes service contract for 3 years which proved good value, although customer service from my local Mercedes dealer wasn't great and after that I used a local independent garage. Being a much newer car, the Superb has a higher level of tech than my E Class - not entirely a good thing given the software niggles. The Superb is almost the same size as the E Class, but one thing that is worse in the Superb is the boot. Although it's much the same volume, there is a lip to lift luggage over, and the back seats aren't quite flat when folded down. The boot on the Mercedes was flat all the way in. Much easier for sliding the golf clubs in!

Just a big heavy car, needs a little more puff ideally

The only practical experience I have is with my Leon and a mate's A3. Both cars had the MQ250 box and 150ps, although mine was a 1.4 TSI and his a 2.0 TDI. Both cars were mapped, and his still runs to this day, albeit with a new clutch. Mine was sold before it became an issue, although I had no issues. His has more torque than a stock vRS, so it makes sense.

Not building it to race around Just a little more pull would be nice 👌

1.8V adapter helped. All works well now. Thank Your for the tutorial !!!!

The undertray design is different, IIRC. The two small covers on the Skoda are utter garbage. You need to undo a screw and slide it back and off. You'll figure it out. Getting it back on is a nightmare. I almost gave up - three slidey clip things, one screw, one locking tongue and a locating tongue. Only VW. Uhmmmmm... I think it'll be a tight fit with the covers on over the pad. I can try it for you in the next week or so if you do want to know, as I need to lift the car up. You can absolutely cut a hole in the cover, or just leave them off. I'd try and keep it covered during winter, but I don't think it'll die.

Apologies, I was thinking of the 1.0 Octavia with the MQ200. I don't often come into Superb land. The MQ250 will fare better, but again, just watch it. While the 'factory limit' for the box is 250nm, you should be able to put 300nm into the clutch without any immediate issues. Just drive it sensibly, and you'll be fine!

I can't say it looks any worse than the one that was on there before. At least the RL parts are interchangeable between EA888.3 and 4. Be a shame if something happened to them...