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Hopefully final update on this issue. I purchased a brand new alternator and once fitted the car is now running fine and battery is charging at the correct 14.5 volts. Thanks for all your help Breezy Pete.

As above.. For less than a fiver you could buy a "Hella Kleenaplug" (see eBay listing and probably available from other outlets), a small tool that will clean out both male and female pins/sockets; in my caravanning days there was one permanently parked in the car glove box in case of dodgy connections.

Switch and contact cleaner followed by a smear of vaseline works for me!! I live by the sea so lots of salt / rain etc blowing about!!

Matters arising:- I really wish I could remember who it was on here who claimed that "petrol engines don't need fuel filters". I'd agree the missing HT spark is coil, cap or rotor arm, unless you've misconnected the new points?

After having issues with my remote fobs and reading on here that they're prone to stop working if you've put certain batteries in them I swapped from Duracell to Panasonic and problem solved so thought I'd cough up a tenner by way of saying thanks and supporting the site. It's been a while so hopefully the site is still a good place to be.

Update time: Had this thing idling away in the garage and it just died on me and wouldn't restart. No spark. Day after that I got my big load of parts so saw to putting them on. New HT Leads Points Did take the distributor off to fit them because the screws holding the Points in were ready to strip. Marked it so timing should be relatively close to before. Checked the fuel filter I put in a few weeks ago, definitely doing its job, have yet another one I'll replace it with soon. Still no spark, however I have it narrowed down to the coil. Traced the positive wire to the coil and put the timing light to it. Lead up to that white box. Just to be sure I did the same to the wire coming from the other side of the box that goes onto the positive of the coil. So It's getting power to the coil, but no power comes from the big lead that goes to the distributor. Have a coil ordered, should be here Tuesday. Also still to come are: -New Cap -Rotor -Carb Rebuild kit Other things I got in that care package that I haven't mentioned are: -Timing belt -Accessory Belt -Valve Cover Gasket -Spare Plugs. One more thing to mention. Said before the backbox was solid but just the tailpipe looked crumbly I was very much wrong there. It's leaking from the gasket and on the weld where the exhaust goes into the backbox. No wonder it sounded so angry. To fit the backbox I got I'll need to have the mid section redone as it goes from 2" at the manifold down to 1.5" to the rest of the system. My backbox is a 2" one. It's a more or less straight piece of pipe from the manifold to the backbox so shouldn't be *too* expensive. Should sound quite nice and maybe even give a bit more pep when it's done.

Also gave the SE a clean and ceramic coating today…

First time i’ve ever used ceramic coating…

Err, you need to measure the voltage between the plug and a ground on the body somewhere, not the pump itself, if you simply remove the pump you can test it off the car by connecting it directly to the battery and seeing if it runs, I suspect the pump is duff but it's easy to test.

Astrophotography mode (Pixel 6a) - 4 minute exposure

The answer is YES, it's just the question of your "must have" features and budget.

Before seeing your message, I removed the 13-pin socket from the Yeti checked that no obvious loose wires (particularly Brown on 3) and just inserted and reinserted the light bar plug. On testing all good; no error messages on the maxidot. Same result on our horse trailer - Result. I have cancelled the specialist. Thanks for all your suggestions, it appears it was probably mild corrosion as the tow bar has not been used for at least 6 months

added P313 ROW

Have you tried driving it a hundred meters? Those faults usually come up after a battery change etc and clear after a short drive. Also I’m going to merge threads as you can’t keep posting the same thing in multiple threads. Please keep it to one.

Heres my project in the making, just purchased these 2 to make a Fabia 4x4 will post pics as i go not going to be a quick project but the plan is a stripped out Fabia with TT running gear. Already stripped the Skoda Audi next and then the cutting begins

Quite like those lights, actually. They do seem quite fitting, as you say.

What Knob said that? Most of that is probably coming from it being run with low fuel (and old fuel) for a bit. Should be about 20l of fresh fuel in it now. Have been chucking Redex down it too to try clear things out. Points are connected as the old ones were, did take photos to help remember what wire goes where. That filter is literally weeks old but considering how cheap they are I think I'll just keep changing them until that ****e is cleared out of the tank. One more thing, forgot to include pictures of the new lights in a previous post. Initial plan was to hide them behind the covers when I didn't need them, but these are far too big for that. My bad for taking a chance on ones on marketplace. Probably still going to use them however. I think they do look correct on this sort of car. I am a sucker for yellow lamps on any car however. Anyone have any opinions on these lights?

My old Milltek downpipe/exhaust has now made its way onto the SE.

Doing that does not assist if the earth terminal wire has a break or massive resistance between the terminal and it final earth point which will be why Sep suggested earthing the meters earth to a totally different earth.

Alien Magic Car Care.

Condition of the bellows is immaterial, did you check the state of the wires contained within?

Yes, there should be 40mm bungs in those holes. Part number 1K0 899 185

The check light could be the result of cheap LED lamps being used. They’re not OEM being that colour. As for the turn signals. Check the coding for them. Looks like the previous owner has set them as US side markers, as well as changing the blinking phase. Good examples of, just because you can, doesn’t mean you should.

Just bought a used Skoda Fabia 2011 found this great site.

That looks like the most basic system (swing?) with the head unit in the dash. Can you confirm you don't have a unit in the glovebox? If you don't then it will probably be a better route to go aftermarket if you want carplay etc. If you have a unit in the glovebox then you should have a better route. Give @pab567 a shout. He is the guru with this stuff.

GREAT IDEA! I stay 2 miles from Thistles! If ya ever want to meet up or summat!

My pal has a 13 pin socket which gets lots of use, he had a problem with it when we picked up his new tractor from Belgium during the lockdown, we had stopped over at my place before he did the final 800km back to his home. It had been a recurrent problem and was one of the pins not making contact properly in the socket, the solution was same as what I have done on 7 pin sockets, to spread the pin using a fine flat blade screwdriver in the slots and to ream out the female pins by hand with a drill bit. For some reason I can't recall it was apparent that the 13 pin sockets were more vulnerable to this failure.

UPDATE I have now had the towbar fitted so I can confirm exactly what Towbar Prep gives you on the Octavia 4. Firstly it guarantees you will get the MAX Train Weight stamped on the VIN plate so you can legally get a towbar fitted. You get a full wiring loom that is pre-wired into the fuse box and the CAN bus. The loom terminates behind the trim panel on the left hand side of the boot and has multi plugs that you plug your dedicated wiring kit straight into. It is the full wiring so includes the cables for caravan battery charging and fridge. So there is no need to do any cableing in the front of the car, its all done for you. The only thing you need specialist equipment for is the coding that needs to be done once the wiring kit is plugged in to integrate the new towing control box with the rest of the car systems. Another thing to note is that if your car is deisel you'll have to remove the add blue tank to get to the bolts to tighten up the tow bar. Not an issue with petrol cars.

That will get you through the drivers door but will not start the vehicle, the immobiliser chip in the key needs to be programmed. The correct and very expensive way is through VAG but which will also bring the security that if the lost key found its way into criminal hands they would not be able to start the vehicle. The cheaper but still very expensive compared to cutting a key is to have the immobiliser chip in the new key cloned to your remaining key.

Thank you so much! It worked a treat! Im so pleased. Thanks for your good deed!

Check battery, alternator and fault codes. Also check PAS fluid if the car has electro-hydraulic steering.

Man here in Egypt it is ****ed up, things are very expensive and salaries are not going up, here in Egypt if you ride a Skoda Felicia you are considered a Middle class and if you ride a Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Audi or Skoda Octavia whether they are new or old 80s - 90s models you considered Upper class Rich, But i like to take care of my car, it is my Father's car he buy it brand new in 1996, so we are the original owners and my father still use it, but me personally i like to drive only for Joyride purpose, i don't like to use my car in heavy traffic in the afternoon and **** up my driving experience and Joy, and here in Egypt traffic are always heavy everyday from the afternoon till 9:00 pm at night, so i don't like to use my car in my daily transportation i get bored from heavy traffic, only my father use it once and sometimes twice a week for transportation.

Just done some research, the car had receipts to a company Kindertons Ltd, they are an accident repair group and lease over 700 taxis Ahh well, it seemed good but back to the search

For a 12-volt system, using a voltmeter, battery voltage should be around 10 volts DC when engine is cranking - voltage should not drop below 9 volts. This is for a fully charged battery. Voltage should recover to more than 12 volts immediately engine stops cranking. Depending on type, a battery test meter will often give pass, charge battery or replace rating, with possibly a percentage reading. For a healthy battery, voltage should be not less than12 volts (12.2 VDC or greater) after battery has been sitting for a day.

One of the biggest issues with rear drums on Fabias is that the arm that the handbrake cable connects to has a pivot on the shoe which can seize, When this happens, the shoes remain in constant contact with the drum and cause drag with the resulting heat, and can give unbalanced wear and in-efficient hand brake action. The issue with the build up of rust at the disc periphery at the edge of the pads is this can cause judder as any high spot will intermittently contact the pad during the disc rotation. For this reason I always try to remove this, whether by tapping the rust with a chisel blade or hammer, grinding, of filing, All these issues are "been there, done that".

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Martin, welcome, don't feel bad if you have made a mistake, just have a laugh about it, by coincidence I just made a mistake and the circumstances of my mistake have jollied me up, if you have made a mistake go the same way, no one got hurt and it can be seen as funny, if you want. As well as here a good source of information about this car new to you is the 'Owner's Manual', reading it, and referring to it will give you a great deal of useful information about your car. If you don't have the paper printed copy for any reason, or even if you have but also want an electronic copy, then you can get a pdf copy from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Also just for info, you were correct in looking at the car from the rear of it facing forward and saying the right, or right hand side (rhs) as with the steering wheel (for UK) being on the right hence right hand drive (RHD). This side is also sometimes referred to (in the UK) as offside, easiest way to remember this is that the passenger side is the nearside (N/S), the side nearest the kerb. HTH.

normal there is a button FM on the left at the bottom. And there I could select DAB. This menu is complete gone, so no FM is showing because its the only thing that is active. I think I will need to check the FEC/SWAP codes if its enabled. I will do this tomorrow.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you are doing that you might as well at least give them a cleaning and depending on how much of a PITA the job is, or is appropriate at this time, dissemble and lubricate and/or adjust. This is often one of those very dirty jobs on a car that you do not know the history of and can sometimes take a lot longer than you expect or it should if the brakes are the type with springs or fitting that fight against you for no good reason.

When cars are not on fixed / annual servicing that is how it can be. In the UK they have never really thought out the changing from Fixed or Minor & Major servicing to variable / flexible. The first MOT is at 3 years, the manufacturers warranty expires at 3 years. Brake Fluid first change shows as at 3 years, so does Haldex at 3 years or 30,000 miles, The VAQ diff would as well if they every remember to remind anyone including dealership staff. The other thing is with a 1.4 TSI iV PHEV they have the oil & filter changes as @ 9,400 miles / 12 months so cars are going to be in every year or sooner.

A gravel stone between disk and inner shield caused once a similar noise

Refurbed 312’s and 256’s by BiggRed in Worcester.

Update from last year, set of Turini’s came up for sale with winter tyres on and i couldn’t turn it down.

Latest photo, taken down Cheddar Gorge on Sunday, showing aftermarket front fogs. Much prefer them over the originals. 😎

Please don't fall for this expensive con trick, belts these days are vastly superior to those of 20 years ago and are generally good for at least 100k miles. No other car maker is "advising" folk to change the belts at five years - you can check it out yourself if you don't beleive me. Mine is now 8 years old and showing no signs of deterioration. My v. knowledgeable mobile mech did some checking for me and discovered that this "advice" is absent in other countries where Fabias are sold.

I was curious about this as my car also only has a 16GB card and it it was just ~100MB more space needed so after a bit of poking around I managed to get it to fit on my 16GB card by deleting a few other files (in addition to the usual language files): In the folder "maps\00\cfg\mapcfg\" delete the highlighted files/folders (basically anything VW or Seat specific): SEAT (whole folder) VW (whole folder) se_default.cfg vw_default.cfg You should be left with just the SKODA folder, sk_default.cfg and vw_man.cfg. I didn't delete the file vw_man.cfg as it was the only file what that name format. It should then (only just) fit on to a 16GB SD card (14.8GB formatted). Plugged it in to the car and after checking the files it didn't report any issues and seems to work fine, but YMMV...

Got a cosworth intercooler sorted good old eBay slowly moving forward

Hello all, I've read all the posts in this topic and found some wrong information. I'll try to explain how the system works in short, if anyone has some questions, I will kindly answer them. To start with, the 12V battery is charged ONLY with the high voltage system, by the power electronics that also drives the motor (the big metal block with the 6 orange wires connected to it next to the ICE) to be more precise. There is no alternator on the ICE, so if you drive in E-mode or hybrid, it doesn't make a difference in charging the 12V battery. This means the high voltage system must be active to charge the 12V battery, so only when driving or charging the HV battery. The reason why there is only 13.1 or .2V is because the 12V battery is monitored by the gateway, it knows the charging state, so if it is above 80%, ther is no need to charge it, purely wasted energy to keep the system at 14V all the time. This is why the converter only supplies 13.2V to the system to just prevent the battery from discharging. When driving and using the regen while braking, the system will be at 14V, all the modern cars do this, not only the hybrids. Actually most of them only have 12 - 12,5V while accelerating, when coasting or braking the alternator will start to charge the battery. Why Sir_Ron_Norris' battery died, I haven't got a clue, but it isn't related to driving in E-mode or hybrid. Could be an driver error (leaving a light on, something plugged into the 12V socket,...), bad ground connection or just a faulty battery. I hope with the new battery the problem has been solved.

It was a 1.4 mpi engine only done 55k miles from new couldn’t give it away so scrap man took it. here’s a pic I took today full TT running gear