KenONeill

I find that hard to believe, if there are no changes other than the fan swap. If anything I'd expect removing a mechanical fan to raise the idle speed because the load on the engine is reduced. This, in turn, means that the alternator will be turning faster, which generates a higher voltage.

I'm not dead certain this is correct, but it is cheap, quick, and won't do any harm. Check for loose rocker cover bolts, and tighten if required.

Is your Suburb running the fans in this situation? I think it might be if they replace a fluid coupling fan.

Could be but use a real contact cleaner, not Water Dispersant 40! It could also be a fuse, but I don't know which of the many it would be. Just to confirm, the front screen washer is ok?

It definitely means that the starter motor is not spinning the gearbox input shaft. How much resistance this generates is probably mostly dependent on how much (if any) of the input gears are in the oil.

Knowing British Laylow fitting QI bulbs to replace the standard tungsten ones would be a major upgrade.

It may help if you tell us what the issue actually is.

That's the whole point of them. The heads break of, so they can't be readily undone. Oh and well done for sticking with a job like this at all. 🫂

You'd have to examine the cables with HB off and on for signs of the outers contracting with the HB on. This needs a level surface, and ideally a 4 wheel held lift.

That's still a reactive system, faster sure, but it's still reacting to throttle setting and steering angle.

You're most of the way there actually. Haldex is a reactive system with no centre diff, where Quattro system is a true permanent 4WD with a TORque SENsing (see what they did there?) centre diff, so you can get windup when Haldex is engaged.

The outer layer of Bowden cables. My handbrake still worked well enough, but the footbrake pedal travel increased.

Big hint! I've also had a car where the handbrake cables were also the adjusters for the rear drums, and the sheaths collapsed every 2 or 3 years causing long pedal travel.

Well, I'm suspecting the ABS block, and it needs a specific computerised bleeding procedure, but we're thinking on similar lines yes.

@rialobran is that pic of the cluster on first switch on? If so it says that the alternator control wires are OK because the battery light is on.

Exactly; there could (not is, could) be something getting frozen in the braking system. Even with a new car, I'd suggest checking the water content in the brake fluid with a hygrometer. Also, I don't know the details of "Scandinavian specification"; does the brake servo include an intake air drier?

What happens at 0C? (hint, it's a state change in a common compound)

Yes and no; it exists due to "traffic calming width restrictors" in a few major cities and some car parks.

Ok, you almost certainly have a problem with broken or disconnected alternator control wires. You need to get this fixed, and then the PAS issue may "go away" by itself.

are on. All this tells you is that you should have the fault codes read. The stealer should do this for free (Sale of Goods Acts).

Agreed; in fact the battery light should be the first check for any "electrical issue" on a 1994 or later VAG car (if only because it's my favourite speed (fast) and price (free to driver)).

I've just realised that you're Danish, so will have Danish wiring, and I don't know that.

This is a fairly well known failure of the window regulator. It affects manual windows as well as electric ones.

Well, it looks like mine which does the following:- Position 0 - All lights off. Side lights - 5w bulbs front and rear illuminate Headlights - Main or dip beam illuminate, depending on latching position of dip switch (operating stalk) in (2) or (3), pull switch once and front fog lights illuminate. in (2) or (3), pull switch twice and rear fog light also illuminates.

Not sure about that, but the main reason for disconnecting the battery is to prevent accidental discharge of the airbag.