KenONeill

It has been claimed that this is drifting down a camber or a built in geometric safety effect carrying an unsteered car away from oncoming traffic.

You got it; those.

Correct, but there's no need to pay main stealer prices for an A/C service which will consist of draining the old refrigerant, leak testing the system if needed, and refilling with a known mass of refrigerant and oil.

Not a Scooby about the rev counter, but if you use the ellipsis top right you do get an option to report a post, and "wrong forum" is a reason for doing so. BTW this thread is now in the CityGo forum.

It's probably in software, so you'll need something like Carista, OBD11 or VCDS.

It may do, since they're both transverse engines.

Declarable mod Increased load on wheel bearings Increase in bump steer Changed suspension geometry...

That's the pump overfill cutoff being oversensitive. My best guess would be that you need to only use half flow, and since we're talking about a diesel, use the half flow trigger lock if it's fitted to the pump. Yes it takes longer, but I've been known to get back in the car and wait on very wet days, or pop into the shop and buy new wiper blades!

AIUI a Haldex should only cut in in low traction situations. You tell us if, for example, you habitually do full throttle full lock takeoffs. BTW I'm not familiar with a Subaru that has a Haldex; they're normally FWD or full time 4WD. I'd agree with @Austin 7 above. Again agreed. So putting 2 and 3 together and making 5 check the outside temperature sensor (mode in trip computer, or value on Climatronic fascia (If you're in the UK, expect 10 to 20 degrees this time of year). (BTW this is why we ask you to fill in location and car details; they are actually relevant to fault diagnoses and legal advice).

Warn car to "sober up and drive serious"!

OK, the last time I encountered this issue, it was with a replacement unventilated tank cap. You might well fix it by drilling a 1/16" hole in the cap. There is nothing in this issue that will actually throw a fault code until you get a situation where the tank is actually imploding causing fuel starvation.

Not if it's done right, since the only way to detect it is to dismantle the exhaust system.

Which goes in the fuel tank yes? So how does it get to the DPF in the exhaust system? (other than slowly and burnt)

There's probably someone at your work who knows a garage that can perform a DPFectomy for about 1/8 the cost of a new part.

That's a vacuum. There is supposed to be a mechanism to relieve the tank so that it doesn't go into vacuum if you drive a distance before opening the tank. I have heard of a few cases where this effect has distorted the fuel tank. Do you have the standard tank cap or a replacement?

In Cumbria I'd guess somewhere between 0 and 20C on a cold start almost any day.

Just one of the reasons why I don't actually like him. I'm trying to keep my comments factual rather than say stuff that will need censored.

Cheers; I still have no idea what one sounds like, never having seen or played with one.

They use semi-automatic boxes, so you have to explicitly do something to put the car into neutral.

I have no clue what a "fidget spinner" is. Could you post the original Portuguese?

Max said himself "I hit the sausage kerb, and that threw me into Lewis", which sounds rather like getting off lightly when he's confessed his guilt.

Well, the last time I needed a new battery I went to the cafe just round the corner and had a coffee.

This takes maybe an hour, including an initial charge; just how far do you live from a local garage or fast fit place?

The drum forms the outer race of a 4 part assembly, with the roller bearings themselves and the stub axle. I think you also need a specialised bearing press to fit the new rollers.

The only time I've had a tyre out of round it droned, getting more frequent as vehicle speed increased.