KenONeill

Cancel the fault code? Maybe continuity test the wiring to the sensor.

Well, there are 2 adjustments I know of on these distributors:- Points gap. This is set by measurement, using feeler gauges. A typical value (no promises this is right for Favorit/Forman would be 40 thousandths of an inch. This may well require a different set of gauges to that used for the tappets. Timing angle. This can be set statically by swinging the distributor body until the points close at the value in the manual. However, this is only good for getting the engine to run well enough to be able to get it hot. It's better to time the engine using a timing light which connects in the number 1 cylinder HT lead, or, if confident, by swinging the distributor body slowly until you achieve the fastest idle speed, then adjust the idle screw to slow it back down.

I'd be more certain if you'd written in English or French, or even Flemish! The mileage to next service count can normally be reset by switching on, and holding the reset button on the underside of the rh stalk for 5 seconds.

I don't know, but you're back to a 1" (say 25mm) increase in sidewall height, and the best riding car I've ever travelled in was a Skoda Superb on 17".

Aside from the tax fraud aspect, you have no paper trail and no comeback if you have a problem.

Agreed, but my calculations were done on the OP's stated tyre sizes.

Well, I make it that the 19" wheels have a tyre wall height of only 56.25mm, and the 18s 82mm, which says that your tyre walls are going to be 1.45 times higher. I'd expect that to make a difference, yes.

My best suggestion is to search for detailed specifications on the Skoda 110R and 130RS models. Incidentally, is the car a Lancia Stratos replica, a Lotus Esprit replica or not actually in the picture?

Hint - A broken spring is shorter than a complete one

Not that I'm aware of. I personally support the RNLI, Help for Heroes and some local charities.

The Engl British Broadcasting Corporation were talking about "2 Britons driving for a German team"; so "German" they're based in Brackley, and their title sponsor is a Malaysian company!

Yes, but they are at least Tv broadcast quality; the guy who's videos I linked in "Racing and Advanced Driving" uses 2 (front and rear), so judge for yourself.

It's probably that my ISP blocks your photo host for some spurious reason or other. If the drain's blocked, water backs up it to an escape, which need not be the roof cassette if your suspicion of bodgery is correct.

I can't see your pictures, but my first thought was of a blocked rear drain (down the bottom end, access inside the rear wheel arch). Never mind any possible bodgery, that'll need sorting regardless if I'm right.

A wired GoPro; accept no substitutes.

How does that make Singapore and/or Istanbul Park one of my favourite circuits?

Edit inline, strikethrough.

Clue - where there's a hydraulic master cylinder, there's also a slave...

That could explain it, but you don't need to spend out on premium tyres; medium price ones like, say, Toyos will still have way more grip than YingTong Ditchfinders.

If they offered me the money, I could use the exercise.

No. But you can buy Hammerite smooth in vRS green and Brembo red (or close matches). It's pretty heat proof, and won't give you the same issues with brake fade that your fashion victim special mod will.

I can't see any obvious reason for this, although it's quite normal for ESP (or ASR) to flash if you accelerate hard in a tight turn or on a split mu surface.

Have they asked it?

It's been done.

Yeah, there are indeed wires for devices not fitted to your car; main beam auxiliary headlights and front fog lights for sure, possibly a multi-speed ventilation fan and a heated rear window. You get the idea. Compare your car with an LSE and expect wires for any devices it has and your's doesn't.