Ecomatt

How long have you owned the car? It might be a DPF regeneration as that can smell hot.

Not that I am aware of. More to the point would you want to, as it would just eventually block up totally.

The ECU will trigger an active regen based on the following The soot load of the particulate filter is calculated by two pre-programmed load models in the ECM. One load model is determined from the user driving style and values from the exhaust gas temperature sensor and lambda probe signals. Another soot load model is the flow resistance of the particulate filter. It is calculated using data from the G450 Exhaust Pressure Sensor 1, the exhaust gas temperature sensors, and the calculated exhaust mass flow from the ECM. We will never know the actual values predetermined by VW as they will be kept out of the public domain. From what I have read and understand I dont think there is a service upper limit based on oil load alone. From what I gather it is all based on flow. You can mathematically work out the weight of the oil volume. But first you need to know how much the oil residue would weigh per Litre to gram. Far beyond my skill set as I am not a scientist with the correct equipment to be able to measure

Europe and their stupid Euro emissions! You could always get the DPF cleaned as a prevetative measure. Something that if I plan to keep my current car for another 2 years I will get done.

As I understand it the service limit is not determined by volume but is by the grams value. If it reaches 45grams or above in load value then VW recommend it to be replaced. If you have any doubts it might be an idea to run some dpf cleaner through it. They do actually work as the fuel is injected after the burn cycle into the combustion chamber and evaporates, being heated again and chemically altered by the cat and then into the dpf. Helping the soot to be burned off.

Quite normal on VAG applications. If you google VW pad knock there are multiple sites with posts relating to it. Minr do this very slightly and they are TRW pads. It affects the larger 340mm brakes more than the 312mm variant. From what I can tell it is because the TRW caliper carrier does not have a spring clip on the top or bottom of the pad to reduce the play. It should reduce as brake duat builds up around it over time.

It all depends if you get it fully removed or ones that clean it whislt it is fitted. The off the car job can be expensive as they may have to drop the sub frame to get the dpf off. You would be looking at around the £350 £400 mark from what I have seen. The in car clean which will clean the majority of ash out can be around £200.

Sounds like the dpf will need to be either taken off and cleaned properly or replaced. I would personally go with having it cleaned and the dpf level reset. You could start driving in lower gears and using the engine a bit harder to help it clear out a bit.

Mine is a CUNA and a MY16 build. It uses oil slightly above spec but it doesn't cause me any worries.

Most service kits have 6l of oil. I just add 5 litres then the last bit I pour in 100ml at a time and check the dipstick till I am near the top of the max.

Bridgestone are well known for this to happen. My wife's car has Bridgestone Turanza fitted and they are all cracking. Her car has only done 17000 miles in 2 years from new.

Glad it is all sorted for you 👍

By the time you have done all that and if you source the parts from Autodoc etc. You will be looking at around £1000ish for the parts and labour of you don't fit them yourself. However if you are going off road and down tracks I would get a car with increased ride height as standard and made for that purpose. Once you start altering your car from base you will lose value in the resale. Plus if the car is on pcp/hp/cs then you have to get permission from the finance company to modify it. I know normally they don't but they can ask to inspect the vehicle. Personally having been on your position I just changed my car to one more suited.

And after all that discussion the best way is to buy another vehicle with raised clearance as standard.

I would look at a different car that is higher as standard.

Personally I would just get another car. The second hand market will most likely stay high this year until the chips start making their way back in manufacturer plants. Then used car prices will drop massively and people will be stuck paying high monthly payments for a car that is not worth it and mozt likely into negative equity for a couple of years. If you buy now be prepared to keep it for at least a few years.

If it was me I would just fit oe bulbs. No point fitting brighter bulbs if they don't last anywhere near as long and especially as they aren't cheap.

If you car is start and stop then it will need coding.

Worth every penny. I have one and prefer it over vcds as you can keep it in the glovebox incase you need it whilst out.

I wouldn't bother with the Audi coding mod. You can code the throttle to change it from incremental to direct. That gives you the sports mode throttle in all profiles if you have the profile button. If not it just changes it to sports throttle.

As Rootoot says you will get different answers from different sources. My own personal thoughts are it doesn't hurt to change fluids. Just make sure they use the correct spec and grade of oil if you do.

With the DPF being cleaned recently I would not overly worry. I know it won't harm the DPF adding a cleaner. Most people do not recommend adding oil cleaner when servicing. But I did on my last one and the engine is much quieter, the oil pump is not as loud as it was when cold. I have fewer long starts as that is an issue with the the vvt getting clogged up with dirty oil. (I will at some point fit the revised part.) I do a mix of short and long runs and so far have not had any issues in 83000 miles (owned since 59000).

They can work but I would just use better quality fuel if doing shorter runs.

Glad you got it sorted. If only I could get the numbers on Euromillions right 🤣