Ecomatt

Ideally to get a good comparison you need to record atmospheric pressure and air temp as that can make a difference. The cooler air will be more dense and as such the car will supply more fuel to match. So it will reduce mpgs slightly.

You cannot alter it on vcds or obdeleven. You need a dsg remap to alter the shift points. If going uphill or a ramp etc. I tend to either put it in manual or sport, as it holds onto first gear longer and stops the 2nd gear slip. That bring said the gearbox is designed to do that and won't cause any damage to the clutch as it is wet. Also consider deactivating starting vibration reduction. It stops the throttle from limiting the power and torque to the wheels. I have it deactivated and it makes the car more positive to drive.

The adaption of the double clutch just starts and stops which is normal.

Make sure the gearbox temp is warm and above 30c. Access the transmission control unit and go to basic settings. Keep your foot on the brake pedal at all times and don't touch the accelerator. Then click on the following options marked with red and wait for each one to go from active to not active after you have started. Then once done turn the engine off.

I have found you cannot rush the gearbox as it happens in mine if I am too quick. A new gearbox adaption wouldn't hurt and is easily done with either vcds or obdeleven. I have obdeleven and it works brilliantly for what I need; plus I can keep it in the glovebox incase I need it when out driving.

It all depends how hard you use your brakes. If you brake hard a lot and then hold the brake pedal down whikst waiting rather than apply the handbrake, then warping can occur. I would jack your car up and see if you can hear any brake rub. There will naturally be more drag with the dsg so the wheel will not spin like a manual. Also check to see if the brake disc is blueing can be a sign of pads sticking. Then check to see if the slide pins need greasing or changing as they can make the caliper stick.

Term of phrase but you are correct 👍

I would speak to them again as it might be a faulty screen. That would be a new head unit.

Did you get it from a main dealer and when did you get the car?

You won't get a lot of difference swapping to 18s. I am not being funny when I say this but is the VRS the correct model Octavia if the ride is too harsh for you? Perhaps a model with softer suspension might be better? Any car with sports suspension will be firm but I don't find mine too bad over bumps with the 19s and Goodyears Asy 5 fitted. Hopefully you will find a solution that meets your needs 👍

It would not bother me. If it has been fixed using genuine parts then there won't be any worry. Think about if it was your own car needed fixing and you had the repair work done. Would it bother you? A timing belt can snap on the most serviced cars at anytime so that wouldn't be detriment to the last owners use and maintenance. If warranty is a worry then you might be better off buying a new car that. comes with warranty. Remember in the UK every car has 6 months warranty under the Consumer Rights Act of 2015 despite what dealers say. It is law end of.

Did you get any warranty from the garage? If you did I would take it back.

Don't forget a VW Golf R Estate 300bhp or VW Passat 4motion Estate as an option. I have looked at them and are rapid with 272bhp and AWD. I wouldnt concentrate too much on 0 to 60 times as they are pub talk figures. I always look at in gear acceleration as that is a true reflection of a cars performance. I have a diesel VRS hatch and love it. It is a fantastic car and is very comfy on long journeys, especially with the DSG. Although it isn't a true auto box and has a few quirks which you get to know and drive around. Many topics on the Internet regarding it. The Audi is a very nice car equally but what I would do in your position is to take a look at each car and drive them. Cars can tick all the boxes on paper but when driven can not be what was expected. This is my third Octavia, owned it nearly 2 years and one I plan on keeping for while longer. Running costs vary from car to car but you will pay extra mpgs and servicing with the Audi haldex system. With DSG make sure it has been serviced every 40,000 miles. You don't really need to remap these cars as they are fast enough as standard. One of the reasons I mentioned the Golf and Passat, as they are already fast and wouldnt need any modifying.

If the beam was too high then it would have been picked up on the mot headlight alignment test. The issue with LED is that they are brighter than xenon. What I would look at is the self levelling system to see if an arm has broken, so it cannot lower the lights when loaded.

Just checked my intake to pcv pipe and it was bone dry.

If it has passed the mot and everything is okay. I would leave them alone.

Thank you. I have just had a look at the cover. I take it the cover for the diaphragm just unclips?

Have you the part number for the valve please?

Did you have to replace the whole cylinder head cover or just the valve itself?

I use Goodyear and they tend to have stiffer tyre walls and less prone to damage. Had mine 2 years now with no issues and we have third world roads round here in places.

I only really get bad wind boom if I only open one window. I find that if I have a window down in the back. I open one of the front windows slightly to equalise the pressure and vice versa. Wind deflectors don't really work all that well. But it is something that all cars suffer to an extent.

The EA288 motor has various stages of DPF regeneration : • Passive regeneration ( when the engine is up to temp and the car is used mostly on a motorway at a steady speed - the user will not normally notice this regeneration) • Heat-up phase - ( when the engine is cold - the ECU goes in to a pre programmed heat up phase to bring the DPF up to temp quickly - identified by the higher idle after startup ) • Active regeneration ( The ECU measures the back pressure or soot loading of the DPF and goes in to active DPF regeneration mode - normally identified by a raised idle speed even when the engine is at full temperature ) • Regeneration trip by customer ( Customer must go for a drive to force the regeneration to complete if the DPF light comes on in the dashboard ) • Service regeneration ( Forced DPF regeneration by connecting the dealers diagnostic computer when normal regeneration is not possible ) • Mileage regeneration ( as a safety backup - the ecu will perform an active regeneration every 465 miles regardless of the soot loading of the DPF if it has not registered a COMPLETE regeneration cycle in the last 465 miles )

If it jis uddering then clearly something is not right with the software. Unless it is clutch judder.

Needs the map tweaking slightly.

I use renapur balsam. Works a treat on leather.