D.FYLAKTOS

A similar topic, another guy with the same problem. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/259952-fuel-pressure-regulator/

I tried and found the 2 relative videos, i had them posted plus the measurements from my car in a topic but this was deleted to ''the other guy'' fault which caused nothing more than problems. Nevertheless it's very easy to take measures in a repair-shop, won't take long. Pay attention to the hose clamps after you finish the job, tighten them and watch for a possible leak, i faced this in the past.

I will find it today, i worked with it in the past. Maybe the ECU took control as security measure.

You can check it with a manometer to see if there is a pressure drop.

Cutting work glueing the ''decoration'' rings and fitting while working in the road and as always not an easy task.

Continuously? The numbers are not dropping?

The grilles are removed, take a look how those projectors are mounted on the bumper, can adjusted a bit up-down or left-right. After years of use some rust signs are visible on the bracket but this is not an issue.

Champion is the original. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/047905104-ignition-module-mpi-champion-27541.html Till this morning was available https://www.autodoc.gr/champion/8221399

Code: 047905104 NGK 79 euro in GR market. Champion 82 euro in Autodoc.

Done. __________________________________ I bought a pair of new bumper grilles and gave an order for 3D printing a pair of rings from ABS plastic. and i ready to make a round cut in the mesh and glue them on it.

In my fog lights i have halogen bulbs. My electrician suggested me to do not install led bulbs on them because they will blur the other drivers. Those auxiliary lights that i have now have a low beam yellow 3000K but i don't use it.

Even having my thumb ''inside'' the steering wheel (more grip) i can reach easily with my index finger the lever for the turn signal or the windscreen wipers so in the future i am thinking to install a few mm thicker spacer.

After few years i bought another pair, 12W with 6000K White light which had a bit stronger beam. I didn't want something very strong, they had a low beam in 3000K yellow colour but i was not interested so much. The fitting was not a big issue, my electrician did the whole job with the On-Off switch inside the cabin (actually is on the ashtray's panel) and i cut the bumper grille but the whole ''picture'' was not good looking, i had to do something more beautiful to look sort of ''factory made''. For sure i couldn't do something like this but i thought i had to try to make something better than this which was something temporary and in a hurry.

These photos are from 2017-17 era. I kept them for some years and then i decise to add a pair of fog lights more powerful so i had to do a modification in the fog light bumper grille. Stay tuned...

I bought my Felicia with factory set of fog lights, i changed after a while the yellowish bulb with an after market 6100K (if i remember correct) and kept this combination for many years. One night i decide that i need an extra set of lights (because in the city the factory could be annoying for the other drivers) to light the sides of the road (more \ / shape than the factory) plus i could light them on early in the morning when there is not enough natural light or in a cloudy day. Someone suggested me to have them as DRL but i don't find that idea as good. I bought and installed this pair, 15W and 6500 K. Was not something ''great'' but was something and add some light on the road.

An imulator into stock ECU won't work?

(double post)

An ECU programmer can match the new ECU to old immobilizer or the the new immobilizer to the old ECU. I have done it to my car twice and kept the old keys. You can but it's not wise, it's an anti-theft measure.

Not necessary, a good locksmith specialized in cars could create new ones with the stock immobilizer. He can also cut new matched with he second immobilizer. If you don't want any of these you can install a start button which has it's own immobilizer.

I have 4 of them for my electric windows but the problem is that their dimension does not fit to the existing hole that's why i am trying to find a bigger one (with light on it). I refuse to give up the fight, i will find a solution.

Update: Today my electrician tried to install a new window switch with green led on it as Lock-Unlock switch. He tried based on this diagram but failed so he tried to improvise but failed too, the led light refused to open in steady mode. 😧 I won't give up the fight, i will find a way to have a switch with green light to match the whole console.

Yeah, only supecars have something similar. Also was an A' class desing like this:

What? 😲 The gad petal design must be the worst in the history of car manufacturing, even 70-80's car have much better than this. It's ugly, ridiculous, non-precision, slacken and every single time you press-release it produces a ''clangy'' noise like a tin, especially in Mountain roads it's a torture and makes me maddened by nerves. It's the WORST part in the whole Felicia, every time i hear that repeated ''clang-clang'' noise i heavily slander and curse not only for the useless who design it but for that incompetent manager who allow it to go to production. The first must lose his degree, get fired, disqualified working in Automotive industry and to be condemned to design sledgehammers, the second must lose his degree, get fired, disqualified working in Automotive industry and hired to work in a stone quarry using the tools that the first moron designed. The first Felicia recall must be for replacement of that dumpiest mechanism in acceleration pedal although the vertical design in the rubber paddles https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/vocAAOSwhlddjgrS/s-l960.png is wrong, must be horizontal.

There is no need to move my foot whole any more, the new car floor mats are a bit ''snaggy" so all i need to do is a V style movement from one pedal to the other. After i install these pedals i noticed that the clutch pedal isn't in an convenient position when i am wearing boots. In the end of the pedal-travelling was a gap between it's surface and the (hard) sole of the boot and that wasn't good for the health of the gear box, i can not draw it put the pedal in the end let's say was | and the sole was \ So i made a panted, placed a small piece of plastic beneath the after market pedal and this cause a small change of it's angle, now it's parallel to the sole of the boot when it's pressed all the way (imagine something like \\ style) so the gear changes are as they should be even with service or cowboy boots. The combination of the after market pedals, the 4th pedal and the clutch pedal modification works fine all these years.