RicardoM

Start by checking the fuses. It would help to write in your control panel what MODEL of Skoda Felicia you have. See our info under personal avatar.

Buy a new alternator or refurbish the existing one if you're on a tight budget.

Are you asking about Felicia? Or about Fabia?

It is common knowledge that coolant additives are different from what is called anti-freeze. Nobody asks for antifreeze saying "I would like to buy 3 liters of coolant additive." The original poster was informed what is a coolant additive. I know what is a coolant additive. Everybody is happy. Except a couple of persons.

I have the installation guide in English and also step by step photos for installation.

The best so far. After MY red version, of course .

Wrong. @Agalalh has a Felicia 1.3 with carburetor. The correct coolant temperature sensor has a YELLOW collar.

@Agalalh Don't waste your money on coolant additives. It is all marketing. Have a new radiator, fresh mixed coolant (50-50%) and no thermostat if you can't find a 80°C one.

I do not work like that. [Removed] All I care is you don't misinform people about me or about solving technical matters. Any further comment about my past or present alleged behavior will be reported. Any angry or vengeful comment will be reported. [Removed]

If you can't handle critics, it is your problem. I can't accept any misinformation or blatant lie passing as truth. You have serious anger issues.

This is an English forum, read the rules. Political feuds and extremist nationalist views are forbidden too. English has its proper grammar, spelling, orthography, and syntax. You should thank me for showing you how to write proper English, but instead you still have flaming outbursts. I suggest a moderator point him a good anger management course because it was always been obvious he has anger issues "in purpose" "till his death".

Try first with the original one. It would help to borrow an infrared digital thermometer (gun type) to assess the temperature before and after the radiator.

Do you have proof that the welding tools and the welding procedure were identical to those used on @Thefeliciahacker car? Do you have proof that the metal housing of the cat had the same structure and coating to those used on @Thefeliciahacker car?

I wonder why Egypt doesn't import thermostats from Turkey. Turkey is a huge market for car parts.

So try without a thermostat. And remember my previous message. There is no magical solution for a cooling system that is not in perfect condition. I have already mentioned that a good radiator is mandatory. It is the only device that cools the coolant. Bad radiator => bad cooling.

This topic is all about the metal housing of the cat. The OP asked specifically about the exterior look. I have referred only to that. Not to mention the interior is mostly ceramic. I don't find to be a coincidence that the cat got a burnt look exactly close to the welding. The excessive heat from the welding modified the properties of the metal, especially in terms of exterior coating. Slowly the cat got a burnt look after the first long trip. Nothing mysterious.

@Agalalh You mentioned you don't want the radiator fun to run almost all the time. A lower temperature thermo-switch will keep the fan working often. It is not economical to use the radiator fan for lowering the coolant temperature. A lower temperature thermostat (that Skoda fitted to all cars exported to tropical countries from factory) will do a much better job. For tropical countries that can be a last solution. The drawbacks are the radiator fan will have to serve as the regulating factor for cooling and in case the engine will not reach a stable 90° C the consumption will be slightly higher..

Well, there's your problem. Heating it at both ends created irreversible damage to the metal of the cat. Next time use clamps and liquid gasket for high temperatures or special exhaust tape.

It is hard to say if the exterior color of the cat is OK or not OK. Nobody knows for sure what metal was used for the outer shell. Nobody knows what coating had the outer shell. Did you weld it in place?

The solution is to use a thermostat for tropical countries. Usually that means 10° C lower temperatures. I recommend a thermostat that starts to open at 80° C. IMPORTANT: The cooling system must be in top condition. That means: - good radiator (clean inside, not damaged) - fresh coolant (50% antifreeze + 50% distilled water) - NOT JUST WATER! - clean system (no rust, no debris, no obstructions)

VIKA chains last about 15,000 km. It is because the poor quality of the steel they are made of. Typical cheap Chinese stuff. Use whatever chain you can get your hands on (except VIKA) and don't forget about the two sprockets being level. It is very important if you want the chain to last about 70,000 km.

Let's see how it looks after removing it. Agree with the liquid gasket from Victor Reinz. Easy to make another one from cardboard for gaskets. Avoid silicon as 1) it might seal inner passages and 2) it doesn't hold on fuel. Mount it only dry.

If a vacuum leak, when you screw all the way in the mixture screw, the engine doesn't stall. Also if a vacuum leak the noise the air makes in the carburetor venturi area sounds like a gargling, coughing. If perfect vacuum, there is a constant hiss. The mixture setup is an art but you can go for maximum vacuum at idle.

How do you setup the perfect air/fuel mixture?