RicardoM

Don't worry about it. They are fine. They don't get decalibrated. Worst case scenario they get dirty with gunk from fuel. Clean them well. Use a magnifying glass if you think they are still dirty. Don't use steel wire to clean it. Nobody said you have to drill the ports that are blocked from factory. Just clean the carburetor with carburetor cleaner, disconnect the hoses that go to vacuum capsules, blow all channels with compressed air. Check it again carefully. Adjust according to the manual I've sent. In my experience I didn't have to adjust the cam from the center position. Most often it is the accelerator pump diaphragm that is faulty. Of course. you can't get full power if you can't get high rpm. Any particular reason I might not be knowledgeable enough?

It is vital to have the correct jet size. It affects the mixture thus the performance of the car. The size is written on the jets. That affects the top speed. One of the roles of the enrichment valve is to raise the level of fuel in the float chamber at higher opening of the throttle. You might be lucky and change that valve and everything goes perfect. Yet I still recommend cleaning the carburetor as some vacuum channels might be blocked. It is not vital for top speed. There should be a little gap.

The most correct and accurate repair of the carburetor involves the following steps: take out of the car, clean it thoroughly inside (all channels), replace old/faulty parts, then re-set it according to its factory manual.

You'll find at the link below the service manual for the carburetor. https://disk.yandex.com/i/eTm3c2PLBnWgag You'll have the answer to all your questions in there. It is a very good read. In case you still can't figure out how to solve the low power problem, let me know.

I said THERE is your problem, not THIS is your problem, meaning "Look! We found the cause of the low power problem." The easiest way to help you starts with an answer that you have missed from my previous message. Do you have the carburetor service manual?

Everything sounds normal. Temperature is normal. 90°C. It is a problem of fuel starvation on 2nd stage of the carburetor. 3.1 What do you mean by "it worked" ? 3.2 Not sure if you understand how 2nd stage works. The video is too blurry. 3.3 There is your problem. Do you have the carburetor service manual?

@R_Blue What country do you live in? I wonder why did you consider using so drastically different thermostat and radiator fan thermoswitch.

Sadly, you need a lot of background and experience in those areas. I appreciate your will to learn, but unless you did electronics as hobby for years or graduated at least an electronics high school, the learning curve is very long. At best you will be able to do exactly what you're told in here if you master simple things as working with a multimeter and soldering properly.

Don't worry. We will not let anyone down, even if that means stripping the car to the last bolt and putting it back in one piece So long as you are willing to do some elbow grease, there are DIY solutions for almost any mechanical issue.

@ThefeliciahackerOne of the first things we have to assess (often indirectly) is the knowledge level of those asking for help. What continues to amaze me is why people believe that electrical and electronics issues are as easy to tackle (as a DIYer) as let's say changing a flat tire...

Apparently with a dead battery. See below. I see that often.

I think he will have to sell a kidney to be able to buy it from a dealer/stealer.

Talking about positivity Bite the bullet and you'll do a proper job.

@R_Blue Congratulations for the photos and the details you gave along this topic. That is an example of how to share information to maximize the chances to get the best reply. I have two questions for you: What is that contraption where the mechanical fuel pump should be? Why did the guys from the machining workshop mention there will be overheating issues with the engine?

What are you talking about? What has the cylinder head rework to do with a leak from the intake manifold?

It is safe to buy a new ignition switch and replace the old one. The only inconvenience will be that you'll have 2 keys instead of one for all doors and ignition. The new ignition switch will come with its new key. As for the key chip for the immobilizer, I sadly inform you that Felicia with carburetor has no immobilizer.

You mean high-voltage ignition cables? If yes, Felicia with carburetor has them. Luckily no rodents in my area.

Typical chinese parts. It only looks good on the outside. The quality of the metal and especially everything rubber is horrible.

Actually there is no rear camera in that video. It is only the 5th actuator for central locking to open/close the trunk.

They didn't take into account the so called global warming.

Thanks. It is the only avatar resembling my figure. 1976 was the year I repaired for the first time a car supervised by my father.

On this forum we don't "send" copyrighted materials. Better ask for the torque values you are interested and somebody might have an answer.

On second thought, have a look at the area shown in the photo for broken wires. Luggage door.

What player model are you talking about?