Gabbo

I would argue with the garage they they should do it for free so that Skoda will earn the annual payments from the services you pay for. On my car it was only needed for them to do something on the computer and then the account was activated. It was the same with our last company car from Mercedes, you couldn't do anything yourself without the account being activated by the garage. It took them 2s and then the app & the connection to the car worked immediately.

Try here to find the electrician connector part number: https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/octavia-4/spare-parts/electrical-equipment/wiring-harness-terminals/terminals-744.html If you can find any Audi, VW, Seat, Skoda with the 2L engine I'd imagine the connectors will be the same...

This site is very useful for part numbers and diagrams... This looks like the same parts (but check its the correct engine as yours): https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/753/2/253/253064

Sorry, I'm jumping between forums too much 😕 I was confused between the Octavia MK4 & superb mk4 which had only been available 3 or 4 months. 4.5 years old is not long for a battery but it's feasible it could be the cause especially if you've had it tested...

If you are happy buying Bezos yachts, Amazon do a bulk pack of 10 from Varta/Energizer etc which usually have their shelf life printed on the packaging. I've been slowly going through these four my 5 Skoda keys

Actually for Columbus MIB1 its the same story but 4 years later.... In the comments from this thread its confirmed that the map files are no longer provided for MIB1 only for MIB2 and the downloads dont work. Shame.... 😞

I cant really tell where that is on the engine from the picture but the whole area looks very very sooty... Do you have a leak from the exhaust manifold that is passing hot sooty air into this area which could have caused the plastic parts to melt?

+1 for PetrolDaves comment.... As you have a Mk4 you'd be unlucky if the problem was a low/bad battery... Do you have something plugged into the 12V socket like a dashcam that could be draining it?

That thread seems to be for Amundsen & I have the Columbus MIB1. There were still official map updates last year for the Columbus & the last version I have is 2024 CW25 the same as the download link.... I will try to find an equivalent VW download as I've used those in the past when there were delays putting the same version on the Skoda download site.

The temperature dial is not linear or accurate, between 70-110 it will just stay at 90°. You can add Coolant Temperature in the maxidot display which will give you a more representative value. When you have the beginnings of the water pump problem, it will occur shortly after starting the engine after the when the temperature gauge reaches 90. You will suddenly see the temperature gauge moving towards the red & you will get a warning "coolant temperature high" in the maxi dot. In my case it was just a warning and before the temperature exceeded 130deg and entered the red, the water pump would pop open and the warning would disappear. Reading the DTCs will give you a water pump position control error. The water pump sleeve operates once in a engine cycle so as long as the engine stays hot, it won't open or stick again. For me it only happened when I started from cold, drove a few Kms & stopped at the nursery for 10 minutes to drop off the kids. When I returned to the car, drove into the highway then I would get sometimes the temperature warning. If I started from cold and drove directly on the highway I didn't have the problems. There was no coolant leaking or coolant loss it was purely a mechanical error with the sleeve. I drove my car like this for ~4 months because of part availablity and the error occurred once or twice a month but getting slightly more often the longer it went on. I've driven 150k km with the new part without any issues.

Passat/superb is a nice step up in terms of comfort compared with they Octy. I've recently upgraded to a Superb and it's very good. Aside from the lower power TDi (with smaller injectors that will limit what you'll get out of it) the other thing you might consider is the ride and handling of the Passat. The VRS Suspension is very firm on the Octy. If the Passat is similar to the Superb then it will be like driving in a bouncy castle over speed bumps in comparison. It's very comfortable when driving leisurely with the family but not really great if you take a speed hump faster than a crawl. Gabbo

It's around the right age & mileage (mine was 2014) and my water pump went around 100k km just over 3 years old Given your mileage it's unlikely the timing belt or water pump has been changed. Iirc it's 100k miles recommended interval (I'm sure someone else can confirm). There's a big thread here concerning this problem. Gabbo

Does anyone know if the MIB1 (columbus) map updates have been stopped? (End of life or just "problems" with the download at the moment?) Online the last I can find are ECE2024 from CW25... There should have been another update in November 2024 usually.

Assuming its not "new" new as you've posted in the Mk3 forum. What mileage is it at & when was it built? This issue sounds exactly like the common TDi water pump problem. When the problem first begins, the temperature will increase towards the red (but not reach red & does not trigger any limphome). If you continue for 30s-1minute the temperature will decrease again. The problem is during warmup, the water pump has a electronically controlled sleave to warmup the engine quickly & then open to allow water from the radiator/tank to flow through the system once its at temperature. The sleeve is "sticky" on the old parts (due to different temperature/expansion properties of the materials) & can take time to "pop" open once the temperature of the materials matches. I used to "dip" the clutch and wait a few seconds until the temperature needle started to decrease again. It will do it once per driving cycle & will be fine for the rest of the journey. I would call the garage immediately to inform them & ask when/if the water pump (and timing belt) was changed. In the past Skoda/VAG was offering 50-60% of the cost of this because it was a common problem. As your car is new it should come with at least a 1 year warranty so I would be insisting that the water pump (and timing belt) are replaced free of charge. The timing belt is not normally part of the water pump change, however, it must be removed to change the pump so you might as well change it at the same time. If the garage says no, I would offer to pay for a new part as it will save you several hundred pounds in the future to change it when its due.

Can you revert the changes you've made back to how they were delivered from the factory? "Units" must be available on all European cars & especially a car sold in the UK.. On my car is in the same place Leolite: Home->Vehicle->Settings->Units

Yes its normal, even when the ignition is "off" many electronic modules are still powered & removing the battery will trigger faults relating to the "power supply".... If you just ignition-off afterwards & let the car shutdown on its own they should all become "historic/passive" codes at the next ignition cycle (or you can clear them with your OBD reader). After something like 40 driving cycles pending codes are automatically cleared so they would normally disappear on their own anyway.

If the car is unlocked before you open the engine bay & you disconnect the battery there should be no alarm.

Just change the battery no need to do anything special... 🤪

Some more digging & there seems a completely new part number for the post Q1 2023 wiper arm. Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts So it would seem 5JJ955707A would be the part to go for which would take the Bosch A403H (also ties in with the dates for the blade part number change posted by ApertureS)

Would the car pass an MOT in the UK if the DPF has been removed/bypassed? A missing DPF could contribute/cause that kind of air path/exhaust fault. Do you know how they've bypassed it? just removed the brick from DPF can or replaced the can with a straight pipe? Is there any kind of orifice to give a similar backpressure to the original DPF?

There are many cheaper & more modern options to VCDS. OBD11 being the main contender but also Carista provides similar features.. They do however have annual subscription costs which make them more expensive in the long run but you don't need to continue paying once an issue is solved. I took a Carista Bluetooth adapter (without subscription) for €15 and use an app called Car Scanner (free) which will read and clear fault codes, show live data & everything I've needed recently. I'm not really sure what "special codes" vcds can read over an OBD2 device? I would continue to monitor the situation now the battery has been changed. If it occurs again, find someone with a code reader or look at the map of friendly vcds users in your area to try to scan for fault codes. It's the only way to help pin point the cause of problem area. As many users have pointed out there are lots of different reasons the glow plug light or check engine light can be illuminated.

Its strange that there still isnt an aftermarket part for this. The same arm seems to be used on the Superb Mk3 >2023, Superb Mk4, Octavia Mk4 & some other newer models? Skoda-Parts reference the rear wiper arm as: 5JJ 955 707 A or 5JJ 955 707 but you cannot choose which one. I assume the A in part number will be for the "new blade" mounting & the one without the suffix will be the old part. Wiper Arm Škoda 5JJ955707A I've emailed them to ask if its possible to have the pre-2023 part, will see what they say. @Millster its a while since you posted but do you have any pictures of the new fixing versus the A403H ? Is it something that can be disassembled from the blade to fix to another? Usually aftermarket blades come with several clips in the box to attached them to different models/manufacturers. Gabbo

+1 for the above posts. We had Mercedes GLE hybrid & also charged it only from the 3pin plug. What I will say is that the drivability of the car when the battery was at 0% was quite poor compared to when it was charged. Pull aways and gear changes were jerky etc. Probably not something you'll notice if the car was only petrol but once you get used to the smoothness of the hybrid/petrol combination you noticed it when it wasn't available.

I have this clicking also I'm my 2024 superb. It's having it's 30k service in a few weeks so will ask the dealer but if it needs anything taking apart to fix it, I think I'll live with it

I'm thinking maybe a problem with the clutch position sensor/switch? If you sit at idle with clutch fully depressed & slowly release the clutch pedal, the clutch switch should trigger the ECU to increase the idle speed/revs slightly to prepare the Engine for a pull away. Does your car do this? It should happen before the bite point of the clutch. A modern diesel (without the caravan) should happily pull away without any accelerator pedal input just by gently feeding the clutch even on a slope as the idle controller maintains the minimum engine speed.