Murdockman

Electric pumps are ok but not the best you have to get the oil at the right temp eg to hot the plastic tube collapses to cold will not pump it out, I used to use a vacum pump on my old Fabia TDI mk2 as the dipstick hole was a good size for the tube but have now found my newer MK3 1.0 TSI is so small the tube will not go to the sump bottom so have reverted back to the normal drain plug way, in pne sense it's about even as the drain plug way is more involved but using a pump is easier but then you hav to clen it all up before the next use so as they say swings and roundabouts

This can be a diy job but for a few things you do not need a ball joint splitter but if yu have one you can use it, the suspension arm can be levered down with a bar keep pressure on the bar then tap both sides of the ball joint casing and it will realese keep pressing down until joint is out of the arm to realease the ball joint but here comes the difficult bit some models have the ball joint riveted onto the arm others have bolts so you can remove the rivets but takes a bit of time with a grinder personally i found it easier to remove the whole arm and do it off the car (riveted ones) but no need to do this with the bolted on ones, some people have bought a new joint then took the rubber off the new one and fitted it to the joint in place but myself would not recommend this action ,the tracking will need checking after changing this joint

Before you take door cards off to re-seal the panel try looking at the bottom of the doors there are 2 slight bump like gaps that allow water out from the door, if these are blocked this can cause this problem, they usually block up with dirt rust etc and you can free them out with a small piece of stiff wire and then a squirt of wd strawspray into the holes/slit

Another Skoda service shedule "lets make some money boys" if your car is over 3 year old get it done yourself use genuine parts but don't pay Skoda prices, quoted for our 2 year old Fabia mk3 1.0 TSI £356.00 that was 4 litres Castrol fully synth oil, oil filter and a pollen filter, bought the oil for £45, filter was £13.75 , and a pollen filter carbon type £38 a new sump plug and washer non genuine but the same £4.95 as they wanted £18 for one, checked the car over no need for brake fluid after 2 years unless you have stupid miles on the clock , this is not done in the shedule but they try and scam you into a air con service £170 plus but you can get this done / checked a lot cheaper if needed eles where, the air does use the new type gas so it is more expensive but most seem to charge you if you need gas or not

Had this sort of issue with my pold MK2 estate, before going to the expense of renewing the sensors £92 each I thought I would give it the old WD40 squirt I used an old towel under each semsor and sprayed into the small circle at the edge of the sensor did this and left it for an hour or so used the car and first time the falshing /and sound went off so thought looks like a bumper off job then a few days later it started working ok again, every few weeks I gave the sensors a little squirt of WD and everything worked ok but we now have a MK3

Put a search in on the bay for replacement skoda fabia wheel locking key take the photo you have and send him the photo on contact seller he will match your picture with the correct key it costs around 25 pounds can't remember the site/seller but did this with my mk2 which was lost when i bought the car and he matched it up no problem

This is not a Bosch problem, all pads are now resin based pads and in doing so this will happenen, in fairness these pads should be changed every 3 years no matter what thickness they are due to the material breaking down over a period of time,this you can usually see when checking on a service, I always replace pads every 2 years no matter what thickness is left on them we usually do around 10,000 miles a year to me this is a small price to pay knowing that you can drive and brake safely, you will probably find that Bosch will say the pads are covered by a 12 month 12000 mile warranty they might send some new ones but don't count on it

To much difference drive shafts gearbox engine mounts exhaust ECU unit 4 cyclinder won't work a 3 cylinder fuel pump etc then to top it all you will have to tell the insurance and they might not insure the car due to the modification

You can get a used one off the bay around £80-£90, My 2008 Fabia actuator was faulty and I bought a new one from a company called turo vanes that was £159 but they might have gone up a bit as itwas about 3 years ago the unit has worked no problem but we changed the car last year but have seen it still driving around

If you have a second bulb fitted mostly it's the same a H7 they did fit H4 bulbs but these were on cars without the flap The second H7 bulb comes on with high beam and the dipped should also come on but a strange one never seen them used with the flap system but who knows

I take it that yu have rear drums on this car? if so you need to do a bit of work on these, the drums have to be removed firstly check that the linings are dry if they look a dark colour you might have a slight leak in the wheel cylinders easy to check just lift the rubber at the edge of the cylinder and if you get a small amount of brake fluid out they need replacing always change both sides when you do, another favourite is the handbrake lever on the brake shoe not being free and sticks this entails taking te shoes off and checking the lever and how free it moves on the shoe, sometimes a tap on a hammer head with the lever fully out frees the lever but a small spot of copper grease on the rivet where the lever is attached can help it keep free, the last thing to check is the handbrake cable as sometimes these get sticky and cause this issue again you need to remove the shoes to check this, if it's not fee the best option is to replace the whole cable you might fee it up but it will come back and stick again it's a bit of a pain to change as you need to get right under the car to get the old one out mine took a good hard pull to remove it watch out for the rear clips that hold the cable to the control arm they can break and hard to get hold of new ones, pattern cbles are fine as genuine ones are expensive, brake shoe kits if you use bosch bonded ones they are much cheahe than the riveted shoes, have a look around some dealers do a brake shoe kit set with new cylinders shoes and springs at a discount price

Had this once before and it turned out to be a bit of rust/dirt stuck in the drive shaft ABS cut outs a quick clean with small soft brush and some WD40 solved the issue for me hope this helps

Ha many people think this what you need is a frosted glass festoon bulb don't know the specific number but you could probably get them from a motor factors the newer version are the capless bulbs push in or led conversion don't be tempted with led bulbs that shape they are to bright and not suitable to use as a number plate light, other than that they are ok as long as you use the lower wattage not the interior fatter bulbs

Could be a few issues here have seen the clips leaking the pump from the small hole thatr vents the pump or could be at the rear egr valve water pipes it's a pain but worth getting into it to check,have known the rad to weep as well but a friends car the head was porus and water was getting into the cylinders but at such a small rate you could not dectect it by looking even a pressure test came back ok but did get a chemical test which showed exhaust/combustion gases in the fluid and the head landed up having to be replaced, the pump hoses and radiator were all replaced before this was confirmed which as he said was a waste of money and should have gone for this first, just to add it only seemed to loose water after a good run not steady driving

Quitea common fault if you don't do anything it will get that you won't be able to open the door at all, really it needs a new door lock but on my MK2 rewar door I removed the rear panel got a car wash sponge and pushed it around the door lock ,I then more or less used a full can of WD40 and sprayed it from all angles waited a good hour then used a rag to geyt the soaked sponge out and mop up the WD40 that had run down the inside of the door, after putting the panel back on a few days later it started to work ok again, I just kept spraying inside the catch every few weeks and never had a problem again, it's worth a try failling that a new lock but it's a pain to change

Done it many times the esyst way unlike some say is to remove the battery on the nearside get a decent pair or the coated workgloves and you will find it a lot better, on the drivers side get a torx bit and remove the whole filter frame from the wing I mean und the bolts and remove them and push the frame to the side use a bit of string or zip tie and hold it out of the way untill you change the bulb ,a lot will say you don't need to do this but it is a lot easier

Vag recommend intervals of 4 years for a belt replacement or 90,000 miles, my old mk2 1.9 tdi was 10 year old and i decided to get it changed with 86,000 miles on the clock, I went the whole hog new timing belt kit new v belt and adjuster new water pump and genuine vw anti-freeze coolant a local garage did the job and charhged me £180 labour but I supplied the parts as i bought genuine parts from an online dealer, the Skoda dealer wanted nearly £500 so have a look to see if you have a bill for around £400 to £500 and that should help you out if it's been done the garage that did my work gave me the old water pump and adjusters back along with the old belts , the old timing belt I think would have lasted another 2- 3 years quite easy but it gave me peice of mind changing it any way car went on for another 3 years but was then wriiten off by an un-insurured idiot if I rember the parts came to around £180 for everything but dealers would not have changed the pump or v belt ot adjuster just the timing belt and those adjusters

Most of the newer TSI engines are the same will only rev to around 3000 rpm out of gear, it's linked with the ecu to stop engine damage, the engine will rev quite high when in gear and travelling on the road this is normal on these engines no problem

Is it electric or manual wind up, if electric most possable motor is shot , door panel needs to be removed and interior handle switch etc, then the plastic covering underr door panel needs to be removed try to keep this whole if possable as this stops the water leaking into the car if not you can use duct tape when finished, i purchased a used motor and wind up mech from a scappie £50 all in, the hardest part is getting the clamp part of the winder off the bottom of the window but before you do this make up a support stick to hold the window solid to stop it dropping and possable breaking, once mechanism is free from window the window has to be pushed right up and held in place to get the motor and winder out it will come out just needs a bit of a wiggle, same going back in , you might need to connect the motor and switch to get the motor to drop down the scissors part of the frame to get the rubber clamp part back on the bottom of the window, if it's wound right up it will not fit into the door and you won't get the clamp on it not to difficult but have a look on here theres a few pictures to help you can't rember where but it helped me do the job and saved my loads of money was quoted £250

First you need to check if you have power to the black push on connector as in the past have come across quote bulbs are ok when they have not been, sometimes there can be a broken earth connection so you need to chech both sides, if you have the three pin connector this has the earth on top but the 2 pin connector has the earth on one side if no power here the next might be the fuse then the stalk you will need a meter for this I have known the earth to the coloum be bad also

Sorry only just seem the earlier posts no worries we don't reply on the sat nav for all these limits just some times signs have been removed and not replaced even before the Dickford diaster date 17th sometimes it's used as a backup to check

Not all signs have changed yet in fact one road has a 30mph limiyt on the way up the hill and 20mph when you go down the hill, another road stats at 20 then changes to 30 then 50 back to 40 and then 30 then it has the national limit 60 talk about confusion

Hi all just trying to find out some information about our factory fitted sat nav MK3 2019 Fabia 1.0 TSI, today the Mark Dickford has forced a 20mph limit on us in Wales, not only that many other roads have been altered it's so confusing What I'm asking can you get an updated or can you update the sd card to reflect these new limits as most people in Wales due to this blanket change don't know what limit is what on what road , myself will never vote labour again this new law will kill Wales and they don't even realise it yet

Depends on what you mean by "front end has to come off", I did mine on my MK2 before it was written off by an uninsured driver, yes you have to take the front bumper off and under tray you have to remove the cooling fan, and a few connections but it is doable my AC gas was gone anyway so no need to de-gas system, the condenser/rad can be wiggled out from the front of the radiator and the top cross panel at an angle takes a minute or so but is possable ,new one cost me £120 plus when finished a re-gas £50, the newer models have different gas now and is more expensive but a decent AC garage should not charge the higher price for the older type gas, sorry if this is no help but sometimes you think some jobs are garage only but you can do them yourself if you take your time

Don't know what you have looked at but mu old Fabia MK2 had a spring type clip that holds the bulb in place and when you need to get the bulb out you remove the rubber cap unplug the black connection and then press each loop on the spring clip down and upwards on the top of the spring and down and downwards on the bottom loo of the spring part you then swing the clip out of the way of the bulb fitting, the bulb then wiggles out of the headlamp fitting , the newer mk3 bulbs twist out NOT the mk2 version try looking on u tube amd make sure you select a mk2 version to see how to remove the bulb good luck and best get a pair of mechanoics gloves as these will save your hands when doing this job