thomasaspin

If you want a cheap and cheerful automatic why not go with something like a rover 25 or mg zr automatic ?

I retrofitted a dq250 into my fabia instead of the dq200 as they are just ticking time bombs in my opinion, the clutch system and wet clutch design in the dq250 is far superior in my opinion the only thing better about the dq200 is the gear ratios that make the acceleration feel super aggressive

Sounds like the hydraulic accumulator has a crack in it , it’s a relatively cheap fix if done by yourself

The coils not firing is a typical sign of a crank position sensor problem it’s literally in the fault code I can’t believe a mechanic would be so careless as to not replace it , the crank position sensor tells the ecu when to fire the coils and inject fuel so without that working correctly the ecu will do neither throwing the parts bin at it suggests to me a mechanic who doesn’t know there trade

I run a tony banks sports cat downpipe with a milltek cat back exhaust , a word of warning when you do up the power on these the sports cat does tend to fail relatively fast , making a sports cat pointless I would run a de cat downpipe myself RTMG do a 3 inch system which is quite cool

Sounds like the mechanic has thrown the kitchen sink at it , why didn’t he do the crank sensor like was agreed ?

A member on here has fitter bucket seats to a mk2 vrs his account was ANT-vrs it’s worth a look at his build thread it might give you some pointers I personally have never done it

The sensor is right at the bottom of the block near where the gearbox is if memory serves , it is possible to do with a deep socket I’m sure it screws into the block , it’s worth getting it on a ramp if possible or on two jacks and checking it out

I would be looking towards cam/crank position sensor rather than an immob issue a good way of figuring this out would be with vcds live data checking if fueling or not on while cranking

You need a cheap voltage/alternator reader and check how it’s behaving at idle

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145129224765?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=uBbwinh9RCO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=vB4oy_wsSh6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Try AUTODOC mate if your not in a rush I.e a week or two from Germany , if your in a mad rush get the part number off the helpful vw garage and get on euro car parts/ eBay garage

Word of caution if the engine has a belt driven water pump , the bearing failing inside the water pump can cause this , and the worse the sound the closer it’s getting to failure which can in turn take the timing belt out so do be cautious

Can be the tyre set up , it’s common on fabia’s , also they are a bugger for the tracking slipping out and needing adjusting

There’s no connection between the auto gearbox and the brake fluid , you need to do some more testing (braking while stationary hard) to see if any leaks appear

Sounds like a bearing or pulley to me on belt side of engine

Hi guys & girls small update I’ve been incorporating the dq250 gear shifter into the oem centre dash , as the PRDS lights and gator on a dq250 gearstick goes into a square plastic plate and the dq200 one goes into a circular dish plate it would never of fitted into the Skoda fabia centre console so I have taken the circular dish dq200 plastic centre console part apart and while I was at it I changed all the surface mount LEDs from boring green to UV purple, also while doing this I swapped the gear gator from the horrible black fake leather to some napa leather gator from Ali express and re upholstered it onto the Skoda fabia plastic (such rubbish quality plastic it virtually shattered instantly)

It’s swarf on the gear selector magnets , take off the inspection panel and clean off the gear selector folks

I would be getting the injectors tested as it’s been running nice and lean in there to get hot enough to burn a valve out

What’s the colour and spec of the fabia and location and price as is ?

If you picked mahle pistons for a tfsi/tsi it’s stupid practice when there are kolbenscmidt pistons which are far superior! below is a video of the typical failure of a mahle piston in a tsi engine and if you have replaced like for like then your asking for trouble in future

Drop another engine in it , they are fairly cheap on the old eBay, and being 3 cylinder the room to work on them is a dream

The oem mahle pistons are turd , hence why the ring lands go on them and VW had to revise the engine and change them for Kolbenschimt pistons which have an extra compression ring this is when the engine code went from Cave to CTHE

Probably stock pistons , I very much doubt a person would fit mahle pistons if they where forging the engine , are the conrods stock ?

You can get compression testers for less than 20 quid on eBay and Amazon