langers2k

Welcome! From the owners manual:

Your car is full of software and there will be bugs/issues within that code. Some of these might be rare and only occur under very specific circumstance so yes, it's entirely plausible that an update *could* fix your issue despite it being fine for four years... Just for example, I had a error on my power steering module at around three years old stating "Mechanical Failure" and yet this was fixed for free by a software update: That being said, it's nigh on impossible to guess what the issue is without fault codes. Once you have the fault codes, you can check the TPI/TSB for any that might be relevant

If there isn't a DSG stat, then it's probably the main thermostat... That's what I changed to fix cool running on my manual CR140:

Bilstein do both a B4 and B6 damptronic which I believe is a direct replacement for the stock DDC damper. Still not cheap though

Once a VIN is used, you can't remove it to add another VIN in it's place I'm afraid. The full FAQ is here: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/8869/ Personally, I'd suggest a HEX-V2 10-VIN edition, they should be around £299 and should cover your 3 cars along with a few extra. It's also only one upgrade ($169 ~£125) from being unlimited. Just for example: https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV210.html As for alternatives, many people use OBDeleven or Carista but I don't have any direct experience with either I'm afraid. edit: Seems some of this may have been answered whilst I typed

The latest is G12evo and is fully compatible with the G13 your car had from factory. Just for example: https://www.seatmotorparts.co.uk/seat-shop/genuine-seat-g12-evo-ready-mixed-coolant-5-litres/

I've no idea how they've done it or if it's in a VAG approved fashion It's also possible that it's a loophole which VAG might prevent in the future.

OBD11 can do retime SFD unlocking according to their blog: https://obdeleven.com/fr/latest-news/post/45_sfd-unlocked-with-obdeleven-.html?page_type=post VCDS can also unlock SFD modules, however, they aren't in a position to get the unlock code so you'd need a 3rd party source to find it. That being said, I believe TSR requires SWaP/FeC codes which I don't believe either can add

It should be on the label... Anywho, the ratios (screenwash : water) are: - Protection to -70°C, undiluted - Protection to -40°C, 2:1 - Protection to -35°C, 1:1 - Protection to -16°C, 1:2 - Summer use: 1:4 Taken from these images:

The 80g oil ash limit likely only applies to some EA288 engines and not the EA189 you have J.R. I believe the 80g figure comes from the VAG DPF app on Android as the screenshots typically suggest 80g as a max. Not sure where it's developer got the figure from. As to roll back stuff, I haven't got any suggestions I'm afraid. It'll depend if you're a simple or complex case - I'm sure we've spoken about it before, if there is a pre-fix update for your ECU then I believe roll-back is just flashing the older version. - If there is no such update, then it's harder as you'll need a tuner who has a backup of a pre-fix version.

It'll work without calibration although the lines will be more accurate after correct calibration

The camera in the first post is indeed a Chinese plug and play solution. This won't have the extra buttons/modes... If you look at the second post, it's where I fitted a OEM highline version from AuDU Auto, much like the one you linked: This does have the buttons/modes although installation is more involved

Exactly - it selects the drive (driving?) mode

Pretty sure that's just for drive mode selection. Given @BPL has no comfort mode or option to change DCC, I'd say they don't have DCC Some VW's get a button for DCC but I've never seen one in a Skoda:

I fitted a very similar camera on my '18 plate vRS with a factory fitted MIB2 and it works perfectly. You should check the boot handle dimensions though, earlier cars have a smaller cutout so the OEM camera may not fit without cutting the boot lid. You might want to see this thread, it covers both Chinese and OEM installation including a wiring diagram for a OEM highline camera:

I would definitely use an extension loom or similar to avoid cutting the original wires. Some amplifiers need a remote line to turn on. Others will turn on automatically when audio is detected on the input, this is auto-sense but may have other marketing names.

Pretty sure it's QNX from blackberry 👍

The factory amp uses CAN-bus to turn on/off and fibre optic (MOST) for audio. That's why there are no low level outputs or a remote wire 😉

Correct, there are no RCA plug or remote line on the factory headunit. You'll either need: - something to convert from high to low level input and create a remote line - just for example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Critical-Channel-Speaker-Output-Convertor/dp/B073D55T5L - an amplifier with high-level inputs and auto-sense technology to turn on/off It might be worth talking to a local car audio shop for some options

I think this thread is starting to get slightly lost. Any issues facing J.R.s 'fixed' EA189 and unlikely to be linked with the OP's EA288. You already know your problem J.R. - your 'fixed' EA189 likes to regen too often, the blanked EGR might not be helping with this. The next step is still to try and get the engine 'unfixed' to see if the older software helps. I doubt it uses that much more fuel and I'd argue a bricked shaped Yeti with 4x4 will never be the most fuel efficient choice. There is nothing wrong with interrupting a regen and you don't need to continue the drive. If the car needs help with the DPF, it'll put a warning light on! As for the OP, I can't see how a DPF issue will cause low oil temperatures. If anything, it's more likely a failed thermostat will cause low oil temperatures and may hinder DPF regens. If I were them, I'd get a suitable VAG specific tool (or local member with VCDS) to check for codes and post them here. I'd also go for a 30 minute drive while logging the water and oil temperature from the ECU rather than the instrument cluster. That'll give a better idea of what the problem might be rather than guessing.

Just leave it to do it's thing... If the calculated value is causing a few more regens, apart from a small amount of fuel usage, it shouldn't make much difference to anything else

The oil ash level is very high... That's the stuff that can't be burnt off so I think the DPF is at the end of its life. You probably need a new DPF or to have a specialist remove and clean the oil ash for you.

You might want to take a look at this post: Seems like at least some are failing due to a 0 ohm resistor overheating and burning out. If so, replacing the resistor or even just using a jump wire might fix it for you

Pretty sure it's a vent or just plastic... The rain/light sensor is the round thing above it. The lane assist, traffic sign assist and high beam assist is the triangular cut-out. The auto-dimming mirror sensors are on the actual mirror, one facing each way.

I wouldn't be surprised if the extra load increased under bonnet temps so it may not have been a interrupted regen causing the fan to run on. Running a pre-fix software may help reduce the number of regens. My pre-fix CFHC Octavia would regen every 300-350 miles so around a third as often. I've no idea how much fuel that would save but only a couple of litres per tank at a guess... TBH - I just left my car to do it's thing. As long it's not using oil and the oil ash volume is increasing consistently, it's probably fine.