langers2k

A 3-vin HEX-v2 on it's own is almost that price! I'd send it back and get a refund

As above, if rosstech say it's a fake, then it will be. They make them and have numerous ways to check. Unfortunately there are loads of fakes around. A genuine hex-v2 with unlimited vins is probably worth around £400 but I don't think they sell it with unlimited vins. Instead, a 10-vin is around £300 and a 3-vin is around £225. Either are upgradable to unlimited vins 👍

Welcome @Ronal Can you add an autoscan from VCDS and ideally an adaption map from 5F? Without knowing what modules your car has, it's hard to offer advice

A MK2 FL Octavia, MK2 FL Superb and FL Yeti are very similar electronically. The steering wheel from either the MK2 FL Superb or FL Yeti should be fine in a MK2 FL Octavia. No idea about the diameter, it didn't feel noticeably larger or smaller to me.

You can get the owners manual from here: https://manual.skoda-auto.com/210/en-GB/models For a mid 2017 model, try this: https://manual.skoda-auto.com/210/en-GB/Detail?model=Superb_3V&edition=05-2017&market=&manualLang=en

Got any pictures? The rear view mirror mount is normally attached to the windscreen by the manufacturer so it really shouldn't drop off the glass. If the rear view mirror has dropped off the mount, you might be able to reattach it.

On a Sept 2015 car you probably have a MIB style Amundsen which looks like this: If so, @pab567 might have some ideas about repairing it. You can buy a used one but it'll need a dealer to sort out component protection (anti-theft) and a few other bits after fitting it. The other option is a 'hacked' unit which has component protection disabled and can be fitted without a dealer although it might need coding afterwards

As above, my vRS came with factory fitted 19" wheels so they definitely fit There are called the xtreme and have the following spec: - 7,5J x 19" - ET51 - 5x112 PCD - 57.1 centre bore Which are normally fitted with a 225/35 R19 tyre if I remember correctly

Try here: Fitting location (only for right-hand drive vehicles): A - Control unit for cornering light and headlight range control -J745- B - 20-pin connector, at wiring harness - T20f

@Hutton93 I think you have a MK3 Octavia not a MK2 Octavia/Superb? The AFS module will have probably moved, not sure where it lives on the MQB platform.

I'd try switching the two LED drivers over to see if the problem stays with the headlight or the driver You'll be able to check the part number at the same time if you need a replacement

Skoda Rapid is PQ26 if I remember correctly. The only two PQ35 cars which got this style of wheel were the MK2 FL Superb and the FL Yeti FL means facelift. - The MK2 Superb was made from 2008-2015 but in 2013 it had a 'facelift' with new styling. The Yeti was made from 2009-2017 and also had a 'facelift' in 2013. It's not hard to use a MQB wheel but you will need to buy replacement buttons (and loom?) to get it working. I'm sure someone makes a convertor but I don't know much about it...

It's not a RS wheel, it's from a MK2 FL Superb or a FL Yeti if I remember correctly. In short, you'll need: - a steering wheel - an airbag - the wiring loom inside the steering wheel for the airbag The only tricky part is the MFSW buttons. They need to be from a PQ35 based car such as the MK2 FL Superb or FL Yeti. You can take the wheel from a MK3 Octavia/Superb, including the flat bottom versions but you'll need to replace the buttons as MQB buttons will not work in a MK2 Octavia. If you have a pre-FL MK2 Octavia, you might need a specific steering controller version but I'm not 100% sure. It was plug and play, you might need to clear the airbag light and the distance may have changed slightly but I can't say I noticed much.

Passing an MOT does not make a car 'road-legal' I agree that the MOT is currently only targeting conversions on headlights as they tend to be the brightest and most likely to cause glare. That does not mean that converting other lamps is perfectly OK. Currently, the UK regulations don't allow any LED/xenon lighting. The ECE regulations supplement/supersede these which is why LED/xenon can be used. If I remember correctly, the regulations stipulate that the bulbs must be ECE approved and match those used when the lamp was tested to get it's approval. Given there are no ECE approved LED bulbs, it basically means that fitting LEDs to any lamp designed for halogens effectively nullifies the lamps approval (regardless of use) making them no longer suitable for road use until the correct bulb is refitted. Philips freely admit this on their packaging: https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-x-tremeultinon-led-gen2-p21w-6000k-twin You can see the ECE R27 and road symbols have crosses by them on the box and the powerbulbs website states: Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to tell you what you should do, only to explain why this kind of modification isn't road-legal despite being able to get through an MOT From that you can make your own informed decision and understand what the repercussions might be.

There are a few different styles for the steering controller and slip ring. The version you've posted is probably for a pre-FL MK2 Octavia... My old Octavia (MY12 but registered late 2011) had the following module (supports MFSW and CC): Address 16: Steering wheel (J527) Labels: 5K0-953-569.clb Part No SW: 5K0 953 521 BN HW: 5K0 953 569 E Component: LENKS.MODUL 014 0140 At a guess, I'd expect your car to have a similar module but at this age, I think it could be either a 5K0 953 549 XX or 5K0 953 569 XX module so you should scan the car or physically check for a part number as they aren't compatible. You'll need VCDS or similar to read the existing code and recode the new module

MK3 Style?

From https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do You can access all the factory info for a small fee. Those are some I'd saved previously when I helped someone with a retrofit

As Phil-E mentioned, with a Swing and BT module, the mic will likely go directly to the BT module. At a guess: - BT module: pin 11 mic + - BT module: pin 12 mic - The only exception would be when a RNS-510 Columbus with voice control is fitted. The mic would connect to the headunit then there is an extra pair of wires between the headunit and BT module

Pretty sure trabolgan will have a MK60EC1 fitted in a 2011 car whereas that thread is about the older MK60 ABS module Have you checked the battery is in good condition? Failing batteries can cause lots of strange issues. Load testing a wire is pretty simple, there are a few videos on youtube. Looking at my notes when I retrofitted a MK60EC1: - pin 1 goes to fuse 25 E-box (40A) - pin 8 goes A38 (Positive connection -2- (15a), in dash panel wiring harness which is probably cabin fuse 2 mentioned by Wino) - pin 32 goes to fuse 4 E-box (20A) - pin 47 goes to earth

Reading the existing coding is a five minute job with VCDS. Assuming there is a briskoda member with VCDS near you, they'd probably do it for the price of a beer Coding the replacement and running through the various basic settings is probably about 20-30 minutes? I expect a garage would change an hour's labour. Looking at those faults: - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01276 - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01130 As a starting point, I'd be checking the fuses and load testing both power feeds and the ground for the ABS pump. I only mention this as the MK60EC1 pumps are generally quite reliable. Once you're satisfied the wiring is in good condition, a used ABS module should be fine. Just make sure you buy a compatible module as there are quite a few versions. Assuming you do the scan to backup the coding to start with, it should also show what module you currently have

You should definitely backup the existing coding and adaptions before removing the ABS module. It'll make coding the new one much easier. It'll also give you chance to check what fault codes are present to confirm if the module actually needs replacing. VCDS would be my choice but OBDeleven and other tools designed for VAG vehicles should be able to show the existing coding. You'd need the tool to recode the replacement ABS module and perform basic settings once fitted. Info about the various basic settings that'll need performing: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_(1K)_Brake_Electronics_(MK60EC1)

You can also try gendan: http://www.gendan.co.uk/faq/409_win7.php#1 They are an official VCDS distributor so should be trust worthy. There is also something here: https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/usb/virtual-com-port.php But I've no idea if that'll work with a 409.

You can find or tap into B503 directly from fuse 10 as shown above or you can follow the [46] or [29] to see which other connectors it goes via and tap into it there It's not shown in your image but there should be some numbers along the bottom to help. Couple of examples: - 6 and 7 are linked (same diagram) - 4 and 72 are linked (different diagrams in the same set)

There appear to be some here: http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/support/Knowledgebase/Article/View/23/0/how-to-install-vag-com-4091-kkl-cable-on-windows No idea how safe/good they are as it's just a hit from google