Dean

Well I finally got it open, it appears the black plastic part that hold the handle at tension is quite worn so the plastic lugs came out of the groove. So I need a new inside handle part which I’ll source tomorrow. I’ll update this topic later and move it into my build thread and make a small repair guide. However it doesn’t explain why the inner handle wouldn’t work either as the arm was moving which pushed down the metal pin within the lock to release that latch. So I swapped the lock over and it does the same.

This is my issue currently... 😒 FullSizeRender.mov

So the door handle decided to break today, also the inside door handle wire broke. Managed to get the door card off but I cannot open the door at all. I can pull the wire, door locks and unlock fine but pulling the wire or pushing the metal arm is not allowing the door latch to open. Any ideas how I can get the door open?

It’s a lazy starter motor as far I can remember, it continues to spin even after the car is started and that’s why it does that noise. I just live with mine but I would think that a new starter motor would be in order.

As above, quite common. All my VRS’s have done this.

Hussair’s one? If so that’s going to feel very quick indeed!

A very warm welcome!

All the best.

Indeed, or you can private message him.

Currently the fb market places has loads for sale, and I’m sure even more within the groups. I try to direct a lot of people to our classifieds but it’s worth looking around.

If I was you I’d probably go and spend my money at Darkside Developments.

Thank you Colin.

Many thanks, I’ve still got to work my way through the pages. 😎👍🏻

All updated as of 21:51 tonight, thanks all! Over 50 new owners added to the list. Get in!

A very warm welcome!

Just to say I've taken this over and updating it when I can with a few changes to the original post.

This is something I’m going to tackle on my estate. I’m sure for me that it’s the front passenger side door seal letting water in. So the weekend will be a bucket of water with a stripped out carpet to see/find the leak. Most annoying!

My apologies, I saw hatch and proceeded to say estate. My mistake!

Keep a look out on here for people breaking Estates or selling the dog guards as they do come up. They also pop up from time to time on eBay. The MK2 and up are completely different fitment so stick to the MK1 style/year 99-04.

As above, you’d need the module to be there and connect to just like the MK1. You can buy the kit from Skoda or even remove it from another model and retrofit it like I have done. I had a benefit of a crashed VRS so I carefully removed the whole loom and rewired it just as the factory would in my other VRS. It works as OEM and shows on VagCom. While there are a lot of differences between the MK1/MK2 you get the idea of how it’s installed. But it maybe of some interest to you.

No they'll require additional wiring, levelling motors, level sensors on the front and rear of the car to adjust the beam, front bumper with headlight washers with the tubing and the bigger washer bottle, which I think is the 5L version. The lights/washers need to work and be there in order to pass an MOT. Some have stated that they've just bought an adapted wiring harness and have them adjusted manually. But as far as I'm aware it was a legal requirement to have xenons installed with headlight washers and for them to work.

If you're looking at one that is remapped, I would certainly want proof of it and not have some back alley Dave do the job which will eventually blow the turbo.

Hi Tatey, You can join our FREEDOM membership and advertise on here too: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/subscriptions/ Classifieds area: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/classifieds/

Hi Marcus, and welcome to the community. I hope I can help, however my experience is on the MK1 Octavia's. But I found adding grease to the bars where the wires/plastic sliders helped a lot. Basically, any part that moved I greased it. Also make sure the plastic slider is seated correctly on the bar for it to move freely.