Baxlin

I don’t keep full detailed records, but I do mentally note my mpg. So on this basis, the last 3 cars, in order of least frugal to best mpg, are Lexus LS300h self-regen hybrid petrol - usually mid 30s mpg per tank. Volvo D3 2ltr manual diesel, low 40s Current Octavia, 1.4 Tsi DSG, late 40s. The Lexus did more longer trips, as i had it up until I retired. The other two are post-retirement. The Lexus VED of course was much lower than either of the others, to balance it a little, but I wouldn’t buy a self-regen hybrid for the mpg.

Isn’t there a plug and play version from AliExpress for the MkIV, like has been successfully fitted to many MkIII cars (including mine)?

2002 Rover 75 Connoisseur SE, with the BMW M47 Diesel engine. Possibly the most underrated and needlessly maligned car ever built (just because it was a Rover!). Beautiful beige leather interior, it was the first car I had that I couldn’t resist looking back at after parking it... I bought it ex-lease at 3 years plus forecourt time with 87,000 miles, kept it for 5 years, sold it at 154,000 miles to my son-in-law, who ran it for 10years, selling it with 268,000 miles under its belt to another owners’ club member. One new clutch, original exhaust.

I like it - but then I’ve had a lime yellow Saab convertible, and a ‘Passion Red’ Volvo convertible, so what do I know about taste... (current car is brown mk3 Octavia with beige interior, just to add to the mix.)

I’d try spraying the connections with electrical contact cleaner (NOT WD40!).

This ^^. Any reason you can share why you don’t trust them?

Seeing this reminded me of transporting my drum kit on and in my Frogeye Sprite in the 60s - floor tomtom on the passenger seat, hanging tomtom and snare behind the seats in the ‘boot’ area with the accessories. Bass drum was strapped onto the outside of the boot. Wish I still had both! 🙁

Powered tailgate? There’s a thread on the Yeti forum about powering the tailgate opening/closing, and a reply referred to aftermarket kits. Has anyone fitted such a kit to an Octavia 3 hatchback? If so, any link to the kit used? Thanks

I would use a piggyback fuse on an ignition controlled fuse, (check whether standard or mini fuse needed!) and run this to a trailing female 12v socket (like the pic, but ditch the crocodile clips). This could be hidden behind the dash/glove box. There could well be room even to hide the phone as well. However, if you wanted it more accessible, use a fixed 12v socket attached wherever convenient. You could also search on here for “Octavia Mk3 rear USB install” for an excellent how-to for adding OE-style USB sockets to the rear of the centre console, but you would need to power them from an ignition controlled fuse as above.

Well done. Obviously you took a brave pill! 👍 Is it appropriate to ask why you needed to remove it? (Just being nosey)

Mmm. Just been out to my car to have a look, it is rather solidly fixed, isn’t it. I have no ideas, other than commenting on my experience when fitting a reversing camera; it took a lot more force than I anticipated to release the metal clips holding the hard plastic tailgate trim. Hope you get it sorted.

Sorry you haven’t solved this, but if nobody is able to help, what could they do? For instance, my car is a 2018 reg, with Amundsen unit, and a plug and play rear view/reverse camera, ie I have no experience of the problem you are having. That’s why I for one haven’t offered help. And judging by the amount of help I have received from members on this forum about other matters (including my reverse camera!!) I think it’s just a case of literally that nobody knows the answer. Would you have preferred it if everyone had replied with “sorry, I don’t know the answer, but hope you get it sorted”? If so, I’ll say it. “sorry, I don’t know the answer, but hope you get it sorted”

Thanks! I’d not seen the Velcro on the bottom edge. Looks like I’ll have to turn the boot liner over...

+1 for 3M VHB, I’ve used the clear version to hold my dashcam to the screen.

As title, really, the main bit is to give a separate storage cubby, but what does the bit I’ve removed do? (Car is 18 reg hatch, and doesn’t seem to have variable loading floor) Thanks

Mmm. Not that frustrating, though! 🙂

Which I find frustrating, as I would have liked a ‘total ownership’ record, sad, maybe.

I would have thought that if you have to remove the glovebox to access fuses, that it would be in the handbook/manual. It definitely is for the Octy III.

Maybe a slight tangent, but hopefully germane, renewing online at/for age 70 means you will lose groups C1, ie vans/camper/towing more than 3500 Kgs MAM, and also D1, minibuses with >8 seats. To keep these you must apply by post, with medical evidence.

I agree, use the camera along with the mirrors, but my (AliExpress) aftermarket jobbie has distance and direction markings. I spent a few minutes checking after I’d first installed it, which means that I can judge distance very accurately.

I’m a recent convert to Eco, and now tend to use it most of the time. Having to reset to get it to coast, even though it stays in Eco after a restart is a pain, though.

Many thanks, that explains it! (I’ve also found that by pressing the Mode button 5 times it scrolls back to Eco, so I don’t have to select Eco from the screen. A good short cut imo)

I’ve recently noticed that my 1.4 tsi only allows coasting if I have selected Eco since starting the engine. If the car’s been left in Eco mode and restarted, it won’t ‘coast’ just shows consumption as a line of - - - when I lift off, as if it’s in normal mode.

Stop/Start system. I was aware that the engine could be restarted by turning the steering wheel, but today I noticed that when sitting in stationary traffic, if/when the car in front moved off, my motor restarted.

Search for Weyland’s excellent thread on adding a reversing camera to a mk3 Octavia. Camera from AliExpress. My 18-reg SE L has Amundsen screen etc, and it works fine. 3-4 hours work, some fiddly, but basically straightforward. No re-coding needed.