26DIPP

I connected my old VCDS cable and there were lots of DTCs. after I deleted some I had another menu button in the main menu which allowed me to change the format. It is not like the manual describes it......

I sorted this problem. I did get the old laptop out again - which is also running Win11 now - and it was the same picture. The VCDS cable was not recognized although it was showing in the device manager and windows was reporting that there were no drivers. VCDS had installed itself as usual as in windows 10 and previous versions but win11 did seem to know about the drivers. So I had to manual tell win11 to install drivers from the C:\ drive where RossTech had created a directory..... Then it was recognized.

It is a HEX + CAN. It is a newer laptop than before running Win11 which I have not used with this VCDS before though.

I wanted to do some coding on our 2023 Superb with my trusted VCDS - for the first time. This lead has been working fine on the old SII. The cable was connected as normal to OBDII and the laptop USB and I got the message that VCDS could not detect the lead. Do I need a different VCDS cable or is it the laptop?

I did click through the settings function to the menu that you have shown, but the time menu does not show the format option.

Hello, I have gone from a SII to a 2023 SIII. Everything is new and almost more difficult to adjust. I did read through the manual and surely must have missed it. The car is displaying AM and PM. I want a 24 hour clock display. So far I have been unable to find any adjustment option. Can anyone help please.

Do you have any DTC stored in STG 01? Cruise control will not work when fault codes are present. Other than that the brake and clutch pedal will disable the CC.

I had a bit more luck with ECP when I bought Brembo pads and discs for my daughter's FII in 2019. The front brakes developed a real juddering when the brakes were applied. I went back to the shop in 2021 and they refunded the discs and pads and I went for a set of Pagids. Re. some people suggesting to change pads every 2 years, I must be dicing it badly as on my now nearly 10 year old SII I am still running the first set of discs and pads.

Are you looking at the cruise control switch on the left or the windscreen wiper switch on the right. The windscreen wiper has 3 settings for little, big and bigger drops. The cruise control on the left switches on and off - no 3 positions. At the end of the stork you can set the speed and increase and decrease.

You can fold them in .... manually. They collect grit underneath and with a bit of cleaning and maybe silicon grease you will get them to fold easily.

Very lean mixture? I.e. hot combustion.

I have been using Barum Bravuris as summer tyres. They are owned by Continental and work well and last.

Hi, Is your car right hand drive or left? Only asking because your location states Bangor and you are asking to go from Km/h to MPH. On the older SII you can only have a large speed display in one "currency". If you go abroad or for LHD with Km/h coming into Brexit UK you have to use the small additional speed display. If you find a way to change the large digital speed display between Hm/h and MPH I would be very interested in that.

Not sure about rust problems. My SII is now coming up to 10 years and I do not have rust - a few bolts underneath have superficial rust. we have the same 2l TDI and I would suggest to not to stick to the long life oil change recommendation. I change engine oil every 12000miles and will change DSG and Haldex very regularly.

We had a similar problem. I opened up the door lock to the PCB. I then unsoldered the 2 microswitches and swapped them as the pins seem to be used differently. This gave the door lock another 2 years of life. The fault came back and I changed the complete lock. Our lock has a different PN but is essentially the same.

Your ride will be so hard. 225/35 would be better. Your speedo would be out by less.

I eventually decided to replace the locking actuator. I have a 2014 SII estate. My filler cap started to get stuck and did not open with the C/L last summer. Some pressure onto the flap helped though. I then opened the mechanism to regrease as the actuator usually worked with pressure onto the flap. Last month I noticed that the flap was actually not locking anymore when the C/L was engaged. So I opened the mechanism again and strange enough it worked when I tested it and put some extra WD40 onto moving parts. The next day the flap was stuck in the closed position and would not open at all. I searched several forums for a solution and on a german Skoda forum one guy suggested to prise the flap open simply by pulling at the top of the flap with your fingers and working the C/L. The flap has enough play to get a finger in gently and the force seemed enough to the release it. I then cut one of the wires and ordered a new actuator. I bought a cheap one on Ebay rather than going through the dealer. The part worked fine and I soldered it onto the cut wires rather than taking my boot liner off, although in another forum I read that one owner had cut the boot liner in the storage pocket to get a hand in and then unclipped the connector which sits at the bottom of the wheel arch.

Hi, I am looking at Kodiaqs. The L&K in particular. Unfortunately it only comes with 7 seats and I will probably sell it with the 2 extra seats unused again. Other markets seem to have a choice even at the L&K level. However.... I am coming from a Superb estate. For those who have gone the same route, how does the Kodiaq boot compare to the Superb estate? We use our Superb for family holidays and often have the boot full.

Hello, I am looking for a PDF version of the owner's manual. I found all the repair manuals and Skoda's own online version, which I am unable to download. Does anyone have a link to a downloadable PDF?

The instrument cluster - CTRL 17 - holds the information for your immobiliser. This needs to be decoded too.

Once you have removed the rubber bellows in the door space you can unclip the connector. I have soldered mine a couple of times and access is o.k., but not great. I have soldered an extra bit of wire in all the broken wires.

Normally the PDC / parking aid is supplied from fuse 9 - 5A. The fuel pump under the rear seat is the closest user in the back I can think of. But if the PDC ever created a fault and blew the fuse troubleshooting would be a nightmare.

Even though my Columbus has installed a POI.DB3 file I cannot click onto the POIs to select any and they are not displayed in the map either. Otherwise the HU is working fine. Does anyone have a solution for this problem?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354630002572?hash=item529198678c:g:ySkAAOSwe1VkBanJ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAN%2Fkhn4a2H2rMkJh5g7ugj%2FKii4%2BhobmBDAOx4bfvyBW5Mhs9oqtZbQtd6gBXWkX4aWmoPVTknkd38r22JAwUctspKggEQdVTQXsNHsbbiE6KKXN9UCX9IdaOOi06uIhGCvRhxHrMSy2CHswjZrx3FanM5IXzDEYfUH4%2FzoSetw%2FwnP5hU8XR0ZuS3UYx7IKub2hUezIwTgW1V9tbebzrT6xqP96dX9e4jaRoK99J8VhJJjFUhz5m8jPvUjlpFnQkFO3EkujKgHgODgWV9KDDSq4n6swJZsBCiCH3ZcZoc1TWG5U0NyvQVPivKiEp5Rb1LzZHcgh9C%2BZqVEihqDNmTo%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5i62dmBYw These are the bulbs I have used and think they are better than H7 halogen. They are not like LED headlights but provide better output and more even distribution. The light is bright white.