26DIPP

You can set that in the MFD or with VCDS.

What is RAID?

My daughter had exactly the same fault on her FII from 2009, except that it was the passenger door as during corona lockdown 1 she was out testing and used her car - passenger seat - for her breaks. I removed the lock mechanism and then swapped two microswitches inside the lock, see thread:

90°C, I meant hot.

If 3 things - thermostat, expansion bottle and water pump - have been changed I would revise the thermostat. Take the new thermostat out and put it into hot water. It should open immediately. If not, it is broken and needs to be replaced.

Pull on the wires for the side light and the bulb will come out. No need to remove anything.

You can try and find someone with a VCDS or similar near you through the Briskoda site and get the car autoscaned.

Webasto is not very popular in the UK. Check the German Skoda forum. The map updates ended 2020.

Are you sure it is a controller module? All the controllers have more than one function and more than one electrical component connected. Try pulling fuses after the CAN bus has gone down and keep the driver door switch in closed position. This way you can narrow down users better.

I repaired the wires in my daughter's Fabia. It is easy to get into the door trim. Then you may have to drill the rivets for the speaker out. I replaced them with screws afterwards. The broken wires should be fairly obvious. You ma need to use a Voltmetre to check for continuity. I extended the wires and hopefully have enough slack in them now for the remaining life of the car, although my daughter is determined to have the car until it dies.

There is no official update since the 2020 V17 update for the old Columbus.

The LEDs are sold as CAN BUS proof these days, but you may have a problem with the beam pattern. I am not sure I would want to pay way over £100 for 2 bulbs though. The Philips would come with any adapter necessary.

If you brake on slippery ground with bad rears or do some escape type maneuvering the rear will overtake you easily. Simple physics.

It was the drains in there which were the problem. Just run some water down the windscreen either side and check if it runs down onto the road straight away. If not the drains are blocked.

You see reference to this in wiring diagrams. Clamp 30 is a permanent live / 12V, clamp 15 is a switched live / 12V after the ignition is switched on.

The discussion of good tyres to the back and worn ones to the front stems not from oversteer when cornering but from dynamic weight shift foreward, i.e. the rears becoming lighter, under braking. In adverse / wet and slippery conditions. You will loose control of the rear axle and the car will be in a spin. Nothing to do with over and understeer. This dynamic load shift occurs in every car regardless of the type of drive.

Start by pulling fuses and check whether the 800mA are reduced. Then go to relays.

But it then depends on how the light is projected onto the road. And the Fabia is not good at that.

The Fabia does have poor headlights, no matter whether you live in the countryside or town. I fitted LEDs to my daughter’s projector lights. A little better over Osram Nightbreakers, but still more like candles.

I have just replaced the BCM on my daughter’s FII. It is o.k. To access under the driver dash. Remove the trim, which is only propped in under the dash. When you look up towards the right you will see a 15 x 5 cm “box” upright. It is held in with 2 pegs at the bottom. Pull the bottom towards the front and then it will slide down a little. Not sure which BCM you have on a 2011 Fabia. You might either have 3 - I think - large connectors to remove or 2 rows of 8 or 9 smaller connectors. This is fiddly. Then it will slide out down. The connectors all have a tab that you have to press. But as said above save the coding.

I had done output tests and pressure tests and the actuator and hoses were intact, so the last bit part was sooted up turbo variable vanes. @J.R. Does the Lidl oven cleaner come with a flexi spray nozzle or take the WD40 one?

The only implication could be insurance, but this has been covered before and most are o.k. as long as road worthiness is provided. I have the 4x4 and change the front and backs round for more even wear.

Our SII from 2014 has only done 55000 M. A couple of years ago - during corona - the car went into limp mode with P00AF -9126 and 9127 - and it did not return for another year. Admittedly I had not done that many miles. A call to Skoda was sobering - £1600 please. This would have been for a completely new turbo. The CFGB turbo is made by Garrett and would be complete with actuator and manifold. It is a pain to get to apparently. Some others are easier to service and even have parts replaced. As the DTC did not return I decided to leave things as they are. The limp mode did return a week before we wanted to take the car to France. This engine without turbo in the mountains would be a right pain. I decided to try the MR. MUSCLE treatment I had read about on the internet. There was no time for a Skoda repair. The MR. MUSCLE treatment was on a 1.9L TDI and access was not the easiest. They detached the exhaust and used MR. MUSCLE into the exhaust end of the turbo. My access was even worse plus there is a DPF / pre cat in the way. but this was also the plus point. The DPF has a pre filter temperature sensor which allows access into the turbo. I removed the heat shield - red circles on the left - which is held in place with 3x 10mm nuts. Then I removed the heat shield for some wires just at the bulk head and loosened them from a bracket - green arrow. The temp sensor wire needs some wriggle room. Then I removed the temp sensor on the DPF. I sprayed MR. MUSCLE into the turbo red arrow in the centre - a few times and blew it out switching the engine on. It is a bit of a palaver as I fitted and removed the sensor and allowed parts to cool down again. I had removed the connection to the turbo actuator, which is not really necessary. You have to change the original MR. MUSCLE nozzle for one on a WD40 large bottle - I have spare WD40 can with a MR.MUSCLE nozzle now. The car / fix has lasted well. No coil warning and no limp mode. This fix cost me an afternoon and £3.99 for MR. MUSCLE and £3.50 for WD40 with a club card from Tescos. This was the VCDS readout: Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-018-CFF.clb Control Module Part Number: 03L 906 018 RS HW: 03L 906 018 MH Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC H28 5357 Software Coding: 001D0032042701080000 Work Shop Code: WSC 33361 790 00999 ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TDI01103L906018RS 003003 (SK46) ROD: EV_ECM20TDI011_SK46.rod VCID: 0C17C779A71A1EEFA3-8058 3 Faults Found: 5172 - Boost Pressure Regulation P0234 00 [096] - Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition) Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 91232 km Date: 2097.14.12 Time: 14:40:44 Engine RPM: 2195.50 /min Normed load value: 62.7 % Vehicle speed: 111 km/h Coolant temperature: 92 °C Intake air temperature: 28 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.620 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Charge air pressure: specified value: 1829 hPa Charge air pressure: actual value: 2216 hPa Air mass: actual value (mg/stroke): 698.5 mg/stroke EGR Solen.val.: actual value: 99.90 % Throttle valve adapter: actual value: 24.95 % Charge air pressure actuator: acknowledgment: 61.78 % Mean injection quantity: 27.68 mg/stroke 9126 - Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1 P00AF 00 [101] - Stuck Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 2 Mileage: 91232 km Date: 2097.14.12 Time: 14:40:47 Engine RPM: 2240.50 /min Normed load value: 56.1 % Vehicle speed: 113 km/h Coolant temperature: 92 °C Intake air temperature: 24 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 13.380 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Charge Pressure Actuator: activation: 5.13 % Charge air pressure actuator: acknowledgment: 48.52 % Turbocharger boost control: offset closed: 0.23 % High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 55 High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 0 High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 0 High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 8 High press turbocharger actuator: actual uncond volt value: 2389.8 mV Accelerator pedal travel: 0.00 % 9127 - Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1 P00AF 00 [101] - Stuck Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 2 Mileage: 91261 km Date: 2097.14.12 Time: 14:57:33 Engine RPM: 1347.50 /min Normed load value: 0.0 % Vehicle speed: 29 km/h Coolant temperature: 88 °C Intake air temperature: 18 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.820 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Charge Pressure Actuator: activation: 10.00 % Charge air pressure actuator: acknowledgment: 17.00 % Turbocharger boost control: offset closed: 0.23 % High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 63 High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 0 High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 0 High press turbocharger actuator: status-Bits 0-7: 40 High press turbocharger actuator: actual uncond volt value: 3398.6 mV Accelerator pedal travel: 0.00 %

This is what I have used as a safety backup when I updated my software. Columbus swl_fix.zip

My daughter has the BXW engine and when she had the same coolant loss I searched with the engine code. Quite a few people in forums said that the BXW is prone to just this manifold preheater braking. Our local independent had seen a few.