26DIPP

Hi, Pete pointed me to the relays after I had removed and tested the wiper motor and got stuck for options. I got a second hand one.

Hi, We had the windscreen wiper fault. I tried soldering first and then changed the BCM. You will not find a fault code on read out for this as it is a relays fault

I have changed one side and never had a leak on the other side. The pressure in the system does not change just because it is now "more" contained. There is nothing to amplify the pressure. The second leak would have been bad luck.

Hi, If you want to "upgrade" the spec level you will probably have to change the BCM (body control module). I have rewired the light switch with a relay to make fog lights work as DRLs on a 2009 FII and I have fitted heated washer jets. This all required pulling wires in the car.

Would this also have to be applied to 2023 SIII. I have just changed to a 2023 one and the driver seat is not storing any position on any number.

Does this head unit NEED a permanent power supply? Can you not just try to run it on a switched supply?

I noticed that with every controller the autoscan stated "incompatible controller" and long coding and adaptation are greyed out. I definitely want to make some changes to the configuration. I looked a little at what other people seem to be using now. When I bought my SII VCP and VCDS were the main devices and some people used ODIS. I still have my VCP and VCDS but they might be up for sale soon. I have seen some people use OBDEleven and then there are various VCDS leads. Is there a general recommendation for either of these?

I connected my old VCDS cable and there were lots of DTCs. after I deleted some I had another menu button in the main menu which allowed me to change the format. It is not like the manual describes it......

I sorted this problem. I did get the old laptop out again - which is also running Win11 now - and it was the same picture. The VCDS cable was not recognized although it was showing in the device manager and windows was reporting that there were no drivers. VCDS had installed itself as usual as in windows 10 and previous versions but win11 did seem to know about the drivers. So I had to manual tell win11 to install drivers from the C:\ drive where RossTech had created a directory..... Then it was recognized.

It is a HEX + CAN. It is a newer laptop than before running Win11 which I have not used with this VCDS before though.

I wanted to do some coding on our 2023 Superb with my trusted VCDS - for the first time. This lead has been working fine on the old SII. The cable was connected as normal to OBDII and the laptop USB and I got the message that VCDS could not detect the lead. Do I need a different VCDS cable or is it the laptop?

I did click through the settings function to the menu that you have shown, but the time menu does not show the format option.

Hello, I have gone from a SII to a 2023 SIII. Everything is new and almost more difficult to adjust. I did read through the manual and surely must have missed it. The car is displaying AM and PM. I want a 24 hour clock display. So far I have been unable to find any adjustment option. Can anyone help please.

Do you have any DTC stored in STG 01? Cruise control will not work when fault codes are present. Other than that the brake and clutch pedal will disable the CC.

I had a bit more luck with ECP when I bought Brembo pads and discs for my daughter's FII in 2019. The front brakes developed a real juddering when the brakes were applied. I went back to the shop in 2021 and they refunded the discs and pads and I went for a set of Pagids. Re. some people suggesting to change pads every 2 years, I must be dicing it badly as on my now nearly 10 year old SII I am still running the first set of discs and pads.

Are you looking at the cruise control switch on the left or the windscreen wiper switch on the right. The windscreen wiper has 3 settings for little, big and bigger drops. The cruise control on the left switches on and off - no 3 positions. At the end of the stork you can set the speed and increase and decrease.

You can fold them in .... manually. They collect grit underneath and with a bit of cleaning and maybe silicon grease you will get them to fold easily.

Very lean mixture? I.e. hot combustion.

I have been using Barum Bravuris as summer tyres. They are owned by Continental and work well and last.

Hi, Is your car right hand drive or left? Only asking because your location states Bangor and you are asking to go from Km/h to MPH. On the older SII you can only have a large speed display in one "currency". If you go abroad or for LHD with Km/h coming into Brexit UK you have to use the small additional speed display. If you find a way to change the large digital speed display between Hm/h and MPH I would be very interested in that.

Not sure about rust problems. My SII is now coming up to 10 years and I do not have rust - a few bolts underneath have superficial rust. we have the same 2l TDI and I would suggest to not to stick to the long life oil change recommendation. I change engine oil every 12000miles and will change DSG and Haldex very regularly.

We had a similar problem. I opened up the door lock to the PCB. I then unsoldered the 2 microswitches and swapped them as the pins seem to be used differently. This gave the door lock another 2 years of life. The fault came back and I changed the complete lock. Our lock has a different PN but is essentially the same.

Your ride will be so hard. 225/35 would be better. Your speedo would be out by less.

I eventually decided to replace the locking actuator. I have a 2014 SII estate. My filler cap started to get stuck and did not open with the C/L last summer. Some pressure onto the flap helped though. I then opened the mechanism to regrease as the actuator usually worked with pressure onto the flap. Last month I noticed that the flap was actually not locking anymore when the C/L was engaged. So I opened the mechanism again and strange enough it worked when I tested it and put some extra WD40 onto moving parts. The next day the flap was stuck in the closed position and would not open at all. I searched several forums for a solution and on a german Skoda forum one guy suggested to prise the flap open simply by pulling at the top of the flap with your fingers and working the C/L. The flap has enough play to get a finger in gently and the force seemed enough to the release it. I then cut one of the wires and ordered a new actuator. I bought a cheap one on Ebay rather than going through the dealer. The part worked fine and I soldered it onto the cut wires rather than taking my boot liner off, although in another forum I read that one owner had cut the boot liner in the storage pocket to get a hand in and then unclipped the connector which sits at the bottom of the wheel arch.