26DIPP

Ross-Tech like some of the other VCDS forums ARE picky. I have a genuine VCDS cable, which I bought second hand. I can post in some of their forums, but for some reason I cannot post in others because it had not been ordered through them. Some other VCDS forums also only give full access if bought through them.

The "newer" cars have a chip soldered into the circuit board. The FII chip is still separate. You need an ID48 chip and a frequency of 434 MHz for the remote. Any locksmith can cut the blank blade and some locksmiths are able and willing to clone. You might need to bring your V5C. The complete key cost me £60.

I wanted a spare for my daughter's 2009 FII and ordered one on the internet with an uncut blade. Ours was £4.81 on Amazon. Then go to your local locksmith and have the blade cut and the immobiliser chip cloned. Our PN is 1J0959753DA. Open up your key to check the PN. This is what came up in a search. https://www.amazon.co.uk/SUNDELY®-Button-Remote-VOLKSWAGEN-434MHz/dp/B07LBLPXG7

Going by the weight and load index probably all can use a 91, but the workshop manual states the 1.8 TFSI can.

I started straight away with the spring compressors and used axle stands with a 2 tonne hydraulic jack. I think I would have run out of clearance. I had to change "standard" height springs. Maybe you have more clearance with shorter springs.

He could use a 205/55-16 91V. Recommended by Skoda.

Ask your wife to walk in front of the car, but warn her that she might have to jump....

You have started 2 threads with the same title. I have just replied to the other...

We have a S II from 2014 and I change from summer 18" to winter 16" regularly. The 18" ride comfort is harder but not too bad. The 16" is definitely smoother as you have more rubber to help the suspension. The S II weighs 1600 kg. Its fully loaded weight with passengers and luggage is permitted to be around 2200 kg. I would probably keep the 18" wheels untill the current tyres are worn down, unless the tyres are very old going by the DOT number on them as your car has only done 24000 miles. Winter tyres in the summer are a little worse compared to pure summer tyres, but defintely help in on slippery roads even if London does not see much snow. The S II is o.k. with 205/55-16 tyres and the manual states an ET 45. I had bought a set of Skoda 16" alloys and hated the look - the wheels were sitting about 2 cm within the body and it looked as if the wheels were just far too small. I then sold these and bought a set of VW alloys with an ET 37 - Road America - which makes the 16" look as flush as your current 18" wheels.

I have just had the middle section off on a 2009 1.4 petrol and from memory the middle section slips into the rear section and the clamp ..... clamps them together. I had to grind the bolts off as they were all one piece of rust, but as your mechanic had them off recently, they should still come off o.k. I did not have to use any sealant on that joint.

The BCM - J519 - is not really involved with the front electric windows. It is the J387 - driverside controller - and J386 - passenger controller and J393 - convenience module. J393 has CAN bus input, but not the door controllers. Bertie I would go back to measuring currents and continuity when the windoes work for 5 or 10 miutes and after they stopped working. When you get the function back after moving wires it suggests a broken wire or corroded connection. If the driver side window switch is not working, but lights are on it could be the earth connection. If the car was involved in an accident and repaired you might be hunting more than one faulty / failing connection. Is the OBD II port not compulsory for a MOT test these days? I might be wrong.

I changed the rear springs on my daughter's 2009 hatch F II 3. I used a spring compressor and loosened the dampers at the bottom. I have attached a picture of the rear drums. The red arrow shows the adjust which you have to push up with a screw driver through the wheel bolt hole in the 2 o'clock position on the right - blue arrow - and 10 o'clock position on the left.

This guy has given a very good overview on this topic. https://paulroberts69.wordpress.com/2015/10/01/upgrading-firmware-and-maps-on-vw-rns-510-satnav/ You can download new maps from gpspower.

When you jack up the car you will see some fat bolts looking past the tyre into the wheel arch. That point carries the wheight of the subframe and you can put your axle stand in somewhere there.

The car is not here right now, but from memory white reverse left, red fog right. Ours is 2009, so the same as yours.

Ours has one.

Have they pencilled it out? The Superb does not have a left rear fog led.

Are they VAG wheels? The code is in the PN.

VCDS put a warning in red in to not change byte 18. If you cannot find someone with VCP it is a trip to a dealer.

You can get a handbook as pdf download. Ebay and gumtree are probably more useful to get a spare kit. Standard is 16". For 18" you have to remove the spacer ring from your boot floor cover.

If you search piston rings tsi you get some hits. Also look at this site. They have a picture of the newer piston rings. https://www.autohaus-dietler.com.au/repair-and-maintenance/tfsi-engine-high-oil-consumption/ I watched a you tube clip on a german speaking car channel about a change of the TSI rings a while ago.

VAG TSI engines have problems with the piston rings. Theoretically the engine has to be opened up and new piston rings fitted. This is a head off job.

The night breakers have the same power consumption as the OE bulbs. So there is no need to get thicker wires in. If you used 100W bulbs it might be different, but some people are not recommending this because of the excess heat and risk to melt the lamp rather than melt the wire.

To make a DIY fog machine for leak teating go to Youtube. They have several low cost suggestions. To occlude the complete PCV just put a large enough cling film over the cap and after a short while any vacuum - if the membran is ruptured - will suck the cling film in.

I had a turbo actuator problem on a Superb last summer twice on one journey. I did some reading, gearing myself up to remove and clean parts, but after clearing the code with VCDS it never came back.