SurreyJohn

Have you changed the memory stick, or reformat anything. The older maps contain a file that must be retained or copied back over, it is like a security key, without it, it wont work. Before you overwrite anything save this file onto another device so you can copy it back. From memory the key file is called something like overall.NDS

Ignoring the marketing name baloney for a minute, which I kind of get, the world was simpler place when less complicated compounds existed. We all know that manufacturers are obsessed with good numbers for mileage at warm day WLTP tests (and to be fair EU levies penalties if average CO2 of cars exceeds limits), but that doesn't make for cars coming from factories with ideal tyres for average UK temperatures. What you get is tyres optimised for testing at nearer 22c, not everyday use in a country where average high temperature is nearer 13-16c and average low is 5-7c or overall roughly 12c below test temperature

Many of the petrol engines seem to be bit tight when brand new, usually uses a bit more fuel for first couple of thousand miles. Not really going to get much battery instead of petrol at constant speed on a flat road

To some extent this is making a problem. If your only need of the map memory stick is for emergency use if mobile maps fail (can't get signal etc), then doesn't need to be plugged in all the time. It's sort of got same status as keeping road Atlas map book. Only needs to be in the car, not available continuously, just has to be there for backup. I don't see why it needs to be permanently running in shadow mode.

I suspect I know how this will go You jump through hoops and get them returned Bridgestone can't see a manufacturing fault, just cracks which started by using summer tyres in cold weather, then gradually enlarged Legal team and customer relations team have a history (which you don't know) which is either pay up and keep quiet, or reject it to avoid floodgates of claims. Hopefully Op @Smokeyjoe will come back and say outcome Interestingly, I had Bridgestone tyres on previous car, got cracking. But we left tyres on all year. My car, where I switch to winter tyres (and the summer tyres just sit in garage through cold weather) are now in sixth year, not slightest bit of cracking. Personally I think the Eco part of the compound to save fuel is to hard and gets brittle and hairline cracks form if you use them in the cold. Over time the flexing of the tyre as it touches the road and flattens out widens the surface cracks. The question is does that make it a manufacturing fault, or the user choosing to use them at temperatures below what they were intended for. You can read all sorts of waffle about UV creating cracks (but doesn't seem to affect summer tyres when sun is strong, if not used in winter, so is clearly garbage). It's clear to me the low rolling resistance (eco) compound part of modern summer tyres (which didn't used to be there) is the problem, it is simply not flexible enough to be used on cold days and cracks if choose to move the car when it's cold. Its basic physics, rubber like materials are hard and crack when cold, softer and grippy when warm, and gooey if too warm. Increasing the long life and grippy characteristics is going to narrow the ideal operating temperature range. Not a problem because they also sell all season and winter tyres which are optimised for those, except of course most Brits try and use the summer version whatever the weather.

They are lug bolts, with M14 x 1.5 threads Tighten them to 120 Nm torque If you buy the correct pattern of wheel then you can use same bolts without any spacers, or different bolts

I think particulate filters were phased in from late 2017 to mid 2018 (exact date varies by engine model). It's not like a diesel PF that injects fuel and does regenerations at intervals, petrol ones get hot quickly and exhaust gases pass through it, and it is cleaning continuously. The only thing you will notice is when you start the car, it idles faster for first 2-3 minutes until it is upto operating temperature. Idles nearer 1250 rpm then settles back down to nearer 900rpm

There is a photo in new brochure on Kamiq SE page, clearly looks like full set of climate buttons, not on main screen https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/e5530aa7-058e-4978-8855-79f9f20111d6

It is a dealer job, unless you have access to the updates, and a way of getting them into the car. Unless the firmware doesn't work, not a lot of advantage in changing it anyway, if you end up with it doing same as now.

Been a weak point for at least 15 years, heating resistor fails, so blower fan only works on highest setting when it bypasses the resistor, but changing resistor unit normally sorts problem for years. But if is happening more than once, suggests the fan motor is drawing too much power, possibly faulty motor winding, or the fan is not spinning freely so overloading the motor. You need to get the cause (the overloading from the motor) also looked at, whilst resistor is changed

It goes back 25-30 years when some big company car users and leasing firms put pressure on certain manufacturers to extend the service intervals. At the time most big company car operators had strict limits of car had to be disposed of when it reached 50,000 or 60,000 miles. So any long term damage and excess wear was never to their account, as got rid of it before it happened, so manufacturers to be competitive and get these bulk orders, all pushed up the service interval when competitors did it. Then second users started to get problems with oil starved turbos etc at higher mileages, so most offered an alternative schedule for those not cruising long distances (basically allowing for lot of cold starts, and engines not warming through. But this has led to complete muddle where people with mixed driving don't know if they should be following the long variable, or the fixed interval servicing. The synthetic oil does last longer, but problem is if drive lot of short journeys in winter, engine barely warms up, and a fair proportion of oil stays as thick heavy cold stuff in the sump. You don't need much imagination to work out if only part of the oil is regularly circulating, that bit will deteriorate quicker. That's why after a decent journey in colder weather the car often feels more lively because got the oil warmer and better circulated. A friend of mine with a company car took some oil (just prior to an extended oil change) from his dipstick and dripped it on a microscope slide, then did same on another slide after the oil change. Let's just say since then he wouldn't extend the intervals on his own car having seen the difference. He described it as comparing a jar of clear honey to a jar of treacle with bits in bit

The problem is the diesels need so much complicated emissions equipment nowadays, they are often £2500-3500 extra to buy. Then have problem of diesel fuel being close in spec to heating oil, so often costs 10-15p litre (about 7-11%) more in winter. Although diesel gives better mileage, got to consume huge amount of diesel to offset these costs. Thousands of litres of fuel

There is still no guarantee that a diesel version will be offered in UK. The SMMT new sales vehicle data shows that diesel is now only 3.4% of UK sales 1 in 30 cars is getting niche. Already no diesels in Fabia, Scala, Kamiq range, and recently Karoq has lost its 2wd diesels.

It's not good idea to mix wheel sizes, even if on different axles. Also if you have the relatively high powered car (220), the idea of changing tyre sizes to save a few pounds, is not really very good thinking from safety point of view. If anything bigger wheels would normally be on the back, so why can't the back wheels go on the front What season are you looking at, or is it all year (all season), you can get all the best rated ones in 235/45 R18 anyway (Continental all season contact 2, Michelin cross climate 2, Goodyear vector 4season gen 3, Pirelli all season SF2 etc

I assume you mean 1000 rpm Sounds like clogged filters, and the car is using extra fuel to try and raise the heat in the emissions system. Almost certainly that DPF is part clogged, and some of it is so old and baked on, never going to clean fully. I suspect your only solution is a full DFP clean (ceramex) etc. A forced regeneration will only do part of a cleaning job, probably be back to square one within 1000 miles. By the time you have paid for that a full service and other filters should stop it reoccurring. Of course, without seeing the car, could be something else too like faulty sensor. I suspect injectors are ok front amount of fuel you are pushing through them.

How old is your Karoq, is it one of the newer ones since they started fitting warm weather, eco biased, low rolling resistance tyres. Where I live (North west Wiltshire, so not in far north) we have roads below field height, that suffer muddy rain water, that often ices in winter. There are also hills (some fairly steep), and when those roads are cold and wet or frosty (and low winter sun doesn't reach them due to hedges), with icy water running off fields down the roads, you need tyres that do not spin or slide sideways, however gentle you are with your right foot. It doesn't matter so much if you drive with heavy right foot these days, as cars are fitted with traction control etc, and and various other trickery, so you can't put excess power down indefinitely as it cuts it within fraction of a second to what tyres can grip with. Yes you can still spin the wheels (with wrong tyres), but you can't do it with engine racing away anymore. I also learnt to drive over 40 years ago, and then the pedals controlled the power directly, now they get overridden if you are heavy footed.

The 1.0tsi is brilliant with DSG gearbox. Would not recommend it with manuals gearbox. The 1.5tsi DSG is even better. Early 1.5s needed a software upgrade, ensure it was done. Be careful with the diesels, the emissions system need to be able to complete DPF regens, (so if previous owner did lots of short journeys, or didn't do 30-40 minutes regularly expect partial clogging and potentially big bill to sort. Not heard of any problems with the 1.0 or 1.5 DSG (problems were sorted years ago), but the 2 litre box is wet clutch and needs the fluid changed about every 38k miles, miss the change and expect problems later.

The 1 litre tsi is more than capable with DSG gearbox for 2 people plus luggage. It is a very free running engine and unless you really like gear changing, I would avoid the manual version Both are good cars, try not to get the biggest wheel size, can be hard ride on UK poor quality roads. The factory tyres don't like cold rain (the sort UK gets) and it is possible to spin front wheels pulling out of turnings when wet on factory tyres (which are warm weather, hard eco biased tyres). A set of premium all season tyres fixes the poor grip in cold wet weather. If don't normally carry anyone in back seats get Kamiq, if need more back seat space then get Karoq. The Karoq is bit taller, whereas Kamiq is more of a high riding hatchback. Both models have many spec levels and very long list of options, so if you have a choice do check what is fitted.

It's on Czech website Price from Koruna 1,035,000 (£36,036) L&K version from K 1,235,000 (£44,194) German version Estate selection spec from €43,840 (£38,422) estate L&K spec from €50,350 (£44,128) for 1.5mhev estate L&K spec from €54,450 (£47,721) for 2.0 TDI Just for fun added just about all options on a diesel L&K on configurator and got price over €60,600 (over £53,000)

If you have decided on keeping same tyres all year, then can I suggest a shortlist. Some might not be available, or at a sensible price in your size Continental all seasons contact 2 Goodyear vector 4 Seasons Gen 3 Hankook kinergy 4S2 H750 Michelin cross climate 2 Pirelli Cinturato all season SF2 Vredestein Quatrac pro + But compared to the factory fit warm weather eco biased tyres, all will greatly improve your grip, and you will probably not spin the wheels again.

Don't forget euro7 starts by 30th June 2025 I think new models have to conform year earlier. Possibly Skoda have not got production of certain engines in euro7 form yet, so limiting selection to what they can do for time being.

There is an rims accessories catalogue, should be available from parts Dept https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b As for tyres, rather depends on what you want, something raw and sporty, or something bit more comfortable for your passengers (and if you don't have passengers why did you buy such a big car) Then there is season, do you want them all year (choose all season), or do you want to be able to throw it around country roads in both summer and winter, in which case need sport summer tyres, and set of sporty winter tyres. Remember European winter tyres are designed for cold rain and occasional snow (anything below about +15c), don't confuse them with snow (Nordic) spec tyres. At this time of year for 18s, (235/45 R18) can I suggest any of Continental winter contact 870P Goodyear Ultragrip performance 3 Michelin pilot Alpin 5 Pirelli winter Soto zero 3 If you are a keep same tyres all year person, then perhaps : Continental all seasons contact 2 Goodyear vector 4 Seasons Gen 3 Hankook kinergy 4S2 H750 Michelin cross climate 2 Pirelli Cinturato all season SF2 Vredestein Quatrac pro +

I would take a photo of the status page on the screen (the data in opening post), and print it, and when you go to collect the keys ask receptionist what has been changed, if he/she doesn't know, suggest you both go to the car and check what versions now appear. If nothing has been updated then say better both go back to desk, or service managers office for full explanation. Then see what happens, you want it done properly, not bit of update, and be fobbed off.

If you have a warped disc, then plugging in the computer sounds like daft idea, no doubt the computer will spot a paintwork stone chip too. Back in real world you might get some clue by just looking, if there are uneven brown (rust) patches on one where pad is not biting it cleanly then that is obviously the one. If put on the spot in a 50/50 guess I would say rear, much harder to bend the bigger double ventilated disc, than the thinner smaller rear one Without seeing the car, can't rule out a tyre defect either, bulge, lost balance weight, tracking knocked off by pothole etc

@J.R. I know you live in south west France which has different climate We are talking about European winter spec tyres, not Nordic (snow) spec. Tyres designed for cold rain and some snow. It is generally agreed they are better in wet below about +10c, (nearer +5c in dry) than factory fit eco summer tyres. The exact temperature varies slightly by brand so not going to debate one or two degrees. In UK virtually all wet days from end October to early April have rain below +10c (6 months), and in many northern areas is nearer 7-8 months. Yes some southern coastal areas might on see 0-5 days of snow, but they will also see frosts anytime from November to late April. The UK also tends to use the cheap method of using rock salt when cold which tend to dissolve moisture and make roads damp. Do you really want to be driving along main road, (and plenty of country A and B roads in UK are full of bends at borderline frost with hard eco tyres providing little grip). Last year my local B road over 20 cars crashed on corners into fences, stone walls, ditches etc. There was always one or two dragged into lay-bys with blue police tape waiting to be be towed away. Our local fields get waterlogged and roads are lower (like French bocage) so water runs onto them, washes off treatment and freezes, hence all the accidents writing off cars.