SurreyJohn

@LeedsZeppelin also try using E5 super unleaded I have same 1.0tsi DSG (but not in a Scala) and discovered can get anything upto about 13% better mileage (urban), nearer 8% rural with the better fuel. It seems to pull better at lower revs. Where I live it is about 10-12p per litre (7-8%) more (although there are some fuel stations that charge nearer 20p extra), so is no brainer if you can get super unleaded for less than 12p more.

It's also rather miserable that the following day they didn't swap the courtesy car to one that was clean from temporary dirty one. The rather casual approach to finding time with a trained tech is rather insulting too

It might be noticeable on poor road surfaces as firmer. Unlikely to notice it on roads with good surfaces. Although after 50,000 miles your shock absorbers will not be as good as day 1, and probably got used to feel of them, so likely to get used to feel of heavier tyres fairly quickly. However if you currently have summer tyres (EDIT just spotted already have cross climates) they will be firmer in cold weather, so more likely to notice it in warmer summer days

Definitely dealer trying it on, if they order it in January, they will be paying the January wholesale price, so adding on a future price rise is wrong. Of course, if they know the prices go up on 6th Feb, nothing to stop dealer ordering loads of stock at the current lower price, parking them on their lot, and then selling it off the forecourt in Feb and March at old price. Or they could make a gain and sell at higher price even if they bought at lower price.

Common fallacy, potholes do not start in bad weather, they just become enlarged with water/ice. There used to be old saying, stitch in time saves nine. Applies to roads too, fix a crack or small hole to stop water getting in (which is quick job with hot liquid tar) then nothing to get bigger. Leave it and got bigger job to do. That's why don't see potholes in roads with good continuous tarmac.

If under 1000 miles, could try arguing with dealer, vehicle not fit for purpose as part disintegrated in normal use, therefore want remedy. (use legal term remedy). Therefore want faulty vehicle or parts replaced Free of charge, or will reject as unsuitable for Cumbrian roads. (They won't know how serious you are about rejecting, but if they do the talk and patter, ask them for a letter confirming they are rejecting any claim so you can give written outcome to your lawyer. Then after few minutes pause, ask if they will swap the wheels with some 17s and they can keep the 19s. To close the matter. See how you get on.

@Satuok The mild hybrid versions have been around for a couple of years. Not sure why you don't want to embrace it (a new Octavia will also have lots of other additional features that weren't on a mk3 from few years ago). Conversely some features have been dropped. In its simplest form, basically is just an electric motor that recovers energy when slowing down, as it works as alternator, and an extra battery, that same motor can then assist. It's not as if fitting an alternator to convert power to electricity is a new concept. The Superb is about to be replaced, and new one doesn't even have a gear lever as there are no manuals. I think the Octavia gets a facelift later this year.

Generally not recommended to mix all seasons and summer tyres (but lots of cars seem to have pair on one axle and pair of another on other axle). However there are some practical points: Firstly although you have missed it (others reading this might be helped), always good idea to swap the tyres front-rear around 12k -14k miles to even out the wear, avoids problem of 2 worn tyres needing replacement at different date Secondly, the guidance about putting the better tyres on rear doesn't make lot of difference if got at least 4mm of tread on rear, but is bad idea if 3mm or under as back of car can swing out under heavy braking (and don't want to end up in other lane with truck bearing down on you) Thirdly, when you consider what rubbish some people use, 4 budget tyres from different brands, all with variable lowish tread depths, you are not taking risks they are. Fourthly you will soon realise that 4 premium tyres with good tread depth (even if 2 are all seasons) is far better than 4 premium tyres with under 3mm tread. Not as good as 4 of the best same tyres, but well up there.

Don't know how much damage you have done, but 3 possibilities: minor, might just need clipping back in, no cost cable came loose, needs plugging back in (time cost in fiddling about) bumper and unit need replacing (bad news cost wise) The bumper is to some extent springy, and if you can just get it clipped back in as undamaged, and it is then in same position when back in, it might reset itself after few miles.

There are 2 elements to this: the Bridgestones are low rolling resistance Eco summer tyres. Think of them as optimised for nearer +25c. Below about +10c very hard (and hopeless in wet). Simply changing to any all season tyres eg Bridgestone Turanza 6 will mean softer on colder days. The Michelin cross climate 2 is clearly softer than original when weather is not hot, and to be honest you would generally find any euro winter tyre (don't confuse with Nordic winter or snow tyre) even better still during November-March. My feeling is where a car is offered with 4 sizes of wheel (in this case 16, 17, 18, 19 inch) then one just below middle is best all round compromise for comfort. Go just above middle if sporty handling is your thing (but it's a family car, not a sports car). Top size is for vanity, it's all looks on billiard table smooth surfaces, not something that is suitable for everyday rutted and potholed UK tarmac. At other end of scale, if you drive elderly relatives around, especially those with arthritis or osteoporosis (weak bones) then order the smallest wheels and deepest softest (not Eco or sporty) all year tyres. Serious comfort regardless of looks.

Not sure how lubricating oil turns to tar, yes they both come from crude oil, but completely different densities. Clearly whatever got into the contaminated oil, wasn't fixed, or it wasn't properly cleaned, so oil feed pipes to top of engine, where cams are didn't provide enough lubricant. My guess is there was residual tar (probably more a carbon buildup) in the bores of those feed pipes reducing the flow. There are 2 possibilities, either there was some sort of hole, or poor seal and unburnt sooty gases got into the oil, or some other contamination from poor mixture (sensor not working properly). This could have been very slight and built up over months. The other serious option was oil was not changed, or replaced with substandard oil (or oil filter not changed), for too long, although person changing oil should have spotted doesn't look right, and even if didn't know cause could have commented on it. Remember the front of Roomster is basically same parts as a mk2 Fabia, you might be able to get a replacement engine from scrapped Fabia mk2 if can't find a Roomster one.

Good selection of Skoda Superb wheels in 4 different sizes here https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b

PCH is basically rental (lease). However the monthly is often distorted by initial and final payments. You have to add up all of them and divide by number of months to get true monthly eg deal might be £1500 then 36 months at £400 then hand back add ons (excess mileage, damage to repair). If you need to spend £300 on tyres and £350 to local chips away mobile to remove scratches, have to factor that in. In this example total cost is £16,550 or nearer £460/month for 36 months. Of course some (not very astute) people will only see £400/month, not realise they are spending £5500 per year or whopping £50k every 9 years.

Skoda Storyboard has done article on new Enyaq 85 and says the same MMI infotainment (which it describes) is fitted to new Superb and new Kodiaq https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/emobility/meet-the-skoda-enyaq-85/

Skoda storyboard has done article on new Enyaq 85 and says same MMI infotainment is being fitted to new Kodiaq and new Superb https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/emobility/meet-the-skoda-enyaq-85/

Skoda Storyboard feature on Enyaq 85 https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/emobility/meet-the-skoda-enyaq-85/

The Kamiq is not that high off the ground, most jacks would be high enough. Failing that a small piece of wood under the jack will give you bit of extra height. I bought a small trolley Jack to change summer / winter wheels (first time I did it using emergency jack), but decided not to spend lot extra on a high lift version, instead just keep an off cut piece of kitchen worktop in my garage, which I put under the jack, It also allows the Jack to roll as it lifts as my drive is block paving, otherwise it stops on grooved joints between blocks.

I don't think it is a cigarette lighter, it is a 12v power socket nowadays, designed to allow use when in the car, so unless leave something plugged in to operate when not there, no point in switching it.

If you find the Skoda rims expensive, then look at others eg Borbet. They have a handy tool on their website which offers compatibility (same bolts, no adapters etc) I have a Seat Arona, came with 215/45 R18, and still have the original summer tyres on them, which have done about 30k miles (5.5 year old) still got about 4mm tread on all 4 (they get switched around each change, deepest tread front left as it wears fastest due to roundabouts, slowest wear is rear right). No cracking either as not used in cold weather when micro cracks start I have 205/60 R16 Goodyear Ultragrip 9+ on Borbet Y rims, basically same car as Kamiq under the bodywork (as is VW T-cross) so wheel choices are interchangeable. It is more comfortable on poor roads on the 16s than 18s

@6nations 215 / 50 R18 size, if you want grip all year, wet or dry, even frost and sleet then go for all seasons, not summer Eco spec which it was delivered with. pick any of following (no particular order, but availability timescale or price might determine it anyway) Bridgestone Turanza all season 6 Continental all season contact 2 Goodyear vector 4season gen3 Pirelli Cinturato all season SF2 Michelin cross climate 2 SUV The Bridgestone Eco is aimed at (heavier) electric vehicles which is why it has the higher 96 load rating. Vast majority of 21/50 R18 have 92 load index. Other spec Karoq (even with heavy diesel engine) have 92 load rating, so don't think you need the 96 rated tyres

Could be a faulty light switch, Have you checked you haven't accidentally moved it, so it is stuck between 2 positions, (both rotating towards sidelights, or half pulled out to fog lights position. The parking lights should only operate with indicator switch, so that could be misaligned too

The smaller one is fine, only jacking one corner of the car. Depending on spec, without driver kerb weight is 1140-1293kg Gross weight is 1691-1776kg

If it is fixed price (same price for large wheels and very low aspect tyres, as deeper 55 and 60 aspect tyres) then assume you will be subsidising the worst which will have much higher claim rate So basically unless you want to give your money away, don't bother. You stand fair chance of eventually getting scratch or minor dent on bodywork, and if you get that before you scratch or dent a wheel then you will wonder why you bothered

The main (about the only) disadvantage of DSG is it costs more Its advantages are : extra gear, and is programmed to generally keep engine in sweet spot longer warranty than a clutch if you have ACC it will do more as it can respond fully without having to wait for driver to change gears less stress for driver can be driven by those with B licences (which are becoming common at tests)

Yes, quite common to use bit more fuel when engine is new and tight for first 2000 miles 350 miles is just under a tankful, probably not going to be that accurate unless you filled it to exactly same point. Probably find the fuel gauge doesn't drop for about first 80 miles when fully filled, and someone might have filled it about 8-10 litres short, but was showing as full.