HeavyMetalRich

Don't rule out the 1.0 TSi 116bhp either. My partner has one with a manual gearbox and it's a lovely car to drive and is nippier than you would expect. Really nice cars now though. I'm seriously impressed with the interior build quality having come straight from a MkIII.

I am in the process of getting my Fabia of the same age back to good condition. Anyway, mine came with a brilliant Sony head unit that has DAB, Bluetooth and a CD slot. I have toyed with putting an original unit back in but the Sony works pretty well. It comes with its own DAB aerial which is currently hidden away in the glove box. The signal isn't great up here but even in the glove box it does get a little bit. The Sony is just a normal sized single deck unit with a little trim piece required to fill in the gap above the slot. However I'm sure there will be plenty of other brands available and also there should be decent double Din units with touchscreens etc available too. Hope that's helpful.

Our 24 plate has the auto lights but the wipers aren't automatic I don't think, so the lights just go by ambient light level. I don't think it would take much to activate providing the hardware is present for it to work. High beam assist isn't fitted/activated either but it's pretty useless on the roads here so I would be deactivating it anyway.

Yeah as @Breezy_Petesays, its not completely necessary, it just reduces the chance of you making a mess with the oil while you try to remove or once you have removed the box. You could argue that draining the oil reduces the weight of the box too if you're lifting it manually but a couple of litres won't really make a huge difference in the grand scheme of things.

Ok, there will be a fuse/fuses for the screen washers. Said fuse/s might well do more than one thing so have a careful look at the diagram. Do the wipers act normally in rain etc? If there's nothing to find fuse-wise I think it'll be a wiring problem but may well even be worn/broken wiper stalk. Hope you find it.

I'm sorry, I'm not sure offhand but it's the one with the extra bit on it for diverting to the headlight washers.

The second motor is for the rear screen wash and should work independently of the front. Push the wiper stalk away to activate and see it it is working too. Have you checked the electrical plug at the pump to make sure there's no green in it?

The rear seat base is fixed in the MK3 Octavia.

Mats sold. Mudflaps still available. £25 including postage please.

Yeah there are many types of car that suffer from this problem. My Octavia has it due to the fact that someone has drilled large holes in the casing to fit flashy lights for some reason??!!🤔😁 I had to replace one light though as the water had stopped the LED element working properly. I think also, in cars of a certain age, the glue starts deteriorating thus letting the water get in.

I have for sale a set of rubber mats for a Karoq. Includes: Front and rear rubber mats and double sided boot mat. Mats are in good used condition. I'm looking for £75 + postage. Also available is a set of fabric mats which have never been used.

For sale I have a used set of genuine mud flaps to fit a Fabia Mk III. Includes: Front and rear mudflaps with fitting kits. The rear mudflaps have been slightly modified to fit with the Monte Carlo bumper. One is also broken but will be repaired. Obviously, having been on two cars they are not perfect but they've only really seen light use and are still in good condition and should do a good lot more miles. I'm looking for £25 inc postage.

You could always drill a small (2 or 3mm) hole at the lowest point of the light to let the water run out if it builds up.

It does sound like the kind of thing caused by a lack of lubrication in the wiper spindles I've seen on other cars. It usually ends up that the wiper linkage along with the motor are replaced as the motor is usually weakened by having to fight against the resistance in the spindles and fails after a short time anyway. So, I would be taking off the wiper arms and scuttle panel and disconnecting the motor and maybe even the wiper linkage from the drive axle of the motor and checking the movement of the wiper linkage. It should move nice and freely. If it is only slightly stiff, you should be able to get some loose oil into the spindles and keep working them and they should free up. If very stiff, you would be better to get a new linkage even though it might free up with the same procedure. Also you could try a second hand motor from a scrappy or online auction site. If it is just a failure of the limit switch as suggested by @Breezy_Pete, you shouldn't have to fit a new motor to tell if the problem is fixed. Good luck, and let us know how you get on.

Hello there, what colour are the LEDs in the switch?

Should be just as you say, disconnect the battery and wait a short while then unplug the seats and zip out the bolts. You'd be worth making sure the heads of the bolts are free of dirt and bruck (rubbish), with these bolts being the triple square/spline/XZN drive, they take very little encouragement to round out. There are only four per seat though so it's not a huge job. You probably will have to slide the seat to get at the bolt front and rear in turn. Hope that helps.

Thanks for the recommendation! I was thinking to get some of the Autoglym Rapid Ceramic on it but that probably won't happen until I do the whole car. It's stayed pretty well so far.

Changing the valve unit itself is an involved job, no question. If however the dealership has quoted £1000 then an independent will be cheaper. It is a fairly common issue on the 1.6 so it's unlikely getting the second opinion is going to provide a different answer unfortunately.

The alternator itself won't be too difficult to change yourself should it come to that. Check the condition of the auxiliary belt too while it's off.

What engine is in your car? I did have the same problem on my 1.9 TDi in my Fabia vRS and I did just remove the oil filter housing as it was only another four (I think) bolts. A word of warning though, get yourself a new gasket to go between the housing and the block, the old one will not seal again when you refit the housing.

A quick pic I took showing the difference between a polished door (b-pillar) trim and a not polished door trim on my MK3 Octavia. Came up good with some Super Resin so I plonked on some Extra Gloss to try and help keep them... well glossy.

Ah, I hadn't realised it was a new caliper. Yes if everything else is new I would say the tubes are furred up too. I did ones on a Golf a few years back and although they looked fine, they disintegrated in my hands as I removed them.

Your caliper really needs a strip down and clean up with seals replaced. Once the handbrake lever starts sticking that means that corrosion has started to build up inside and grip the lever axle. Most folk don't bother with stripping rear calipers though and just replace them as it's easier. In the meantime, you could try getting some loose oil into the caliper. Behind the handbrake lever there is a rubber dust cover, if you can get a small screwdriver to lift the cover. If you have a straw on the oil tin poke it in under the cover and apply plenty. If you don't have a straw, spray the oil on to your screwdriver and let it run down under the cover. Once you've got a good dose under the dust cover, work the lever back and fore and you should feel it free up. Keep applying oil and working the lever and you should get it reasonably free. Obviously this won't last that long but it might keep you from cooking your brake before you get a permanent fix. Hope that helps.

They're not getting any easier that's for sure! Glad you got it sorted. Sorry I wasn't much help!🙄😁

Are you able to post a close up picture of the filaments of the bulbs? Bear in mind there will be two in the glass if @AGFalco's statement is correct which I don't doubt it will be. We might be able to give you a better idea if we could see them.