D402

Thanks all, good point about the valve. It wasn't replaced as they didn't find a leak there. I'll check it out. The tyre place assures me that the tyre and rim are fine. I did reset the TPMS each time I corrected the pressures, it has worked well on this occassion.

I checked my tyre pressures on New Years Eve, found them all a bit low and topped them up; later on a short journey, the TPMS flagged one as low; when I got home, it had dropped about 0.5 bar so I topped it up again. When I checked it on 4th Jan, it hadn't lost any pressure and I couldn't see any damage or embedded screw heads etc. I did a few more short journeys that day with no TPMS warnings. By 6th Jan, it was completely flat. Today, I've pumped it back up and taken it to the local tyre fitters who can't find anything wrong! Any ideas?

I'm thinking that the exhaust flaps only open in Sport mode so they are linked somehow, perhaps the flap motors run off the same supply as the coils or injectors and cause the misfire faults when they open or close. If you disconnect the flaps, can you drive in Sport mode without misfire faults? Do you ever see the faults when not in Sport mode?

It's bizarre but you actually have to cut the back of the lamp housing open to get to the sidelight bulbs. Here's a previous post on the subject:

Here you go, it hasn't been driven for five days so braking surface is a bit rusty. These were fitted in September 2020.

I'm very pleased with the Brembo discs I bought from ECP; they've been on for over a year now and, despite little use, they have remained rust-free. I went with the same for the fronts. The Brembo pads aren't great though - they make lots of dust and don't have the same 'bite' as the original pads. I wouldn't buy these again. Ferodo DS Performance were very good on my previous car. @BanquoWait a week or two and ECP will have 40-50% off Brembo yet again.

Flac for best audio quality as it uses lossless compression, it does support album art. I use Exact Audio Copy to rip CDs.

I get something similar, a vertical streak on the inside of the tailgate glass as if water has run from the wiper motor area when the tailgate is opened, often afer I've washed the car or heavy rain. No idea what the cause is, it doesn't bother me enough to justify investigating

That's odd, Windows wouldn't extract the EU AS 1810 file from SEAT for me, but 7-Zip worked fine.

You're right, I was using Waze via Android Auto and the Closure button doesn't appear there.

I had Waze try to take me through two road closures in the same journey recently so even that's not immune to these sorts of problems. Annoyingly, you can only report closures through the Waze website, not the app, and while you are actually at the location so it's impossible while driving.

The latest keys have a motion sensor inside that disables the KESSY function when they've not been moved for a while, this should prevent the key relay type theft while the keys are stored at home.

Sounds fun, I had many enjoyable seasons working at Arjeplog and Arvidsjaur

The steering wheel, upper column shaft, intermediate shaft, pinion and rack are all keyed and geared together permanently so setting the steering wheel straight will set the zero position of the rack too. The only adjustment is in the tie rods; usually both sides need adjusting to achieve correct alignment with the steering wheel centred but many garages don't know this or are too lazy to do it. If you have you have correct alignment, steering centred and matching tyres but it still pulls at high speeds then perhaps the subframe is misaligned with the chassis. If it only happens at low speed then perhaps the steering angle sensor needs recalibrating to recentre the active return function of the electric power steering, although I would expect it to adapt automatically to alignment adjustments.

It's easy to remove the light cluster, instructions are in the handbook. Then you'll be able to read the part number off it. With any luck, you'll find one by searching for that on Ebay. Very lucky there was no other damage and well done stopping the culprit.

Does it do it all the time? It will hold a lower gear to get the revs up during a DPF regen. I also notice high revs when accelerating, even gently, uphill. I don't see more than 1750rpm driving normally on the flat in E mode.

Yes - adjust the set speed so you're going slower than the traffic in front of you!

With at least two faults plus timing belt and water pump due, I'd be looking elsewhere. Look at the state of those buttons too, yuk!

Interesting graphs but they wouldn't show if there was a different time lag between pedal input and throttle opening in each mode Mine too, wish I could get 2 or 3 times as much improvement again though

I wonder if ripping the CDs, burning the ripped files to a CD then putting that in the reader would work and be close enough to the CD experience

Rip your CDs to a lossless format such as FLAC then copy them to a USB memory stick to play in the car. I use a free PC app called Exact Audio Copy for this.

Get a passenger to listen while you drive, they may be able to pinpoint the noise more easily than you can.

Thanks, I stand corrected! @BerisfordDoes your experience at 60mph match @xman's at 35?

Next time you clean your discs this way, check the front brake temperature afterwards!

That's because the park brake switch applies the front and rear brakes if pulled while the car is moving, similar to ACC braking but much harder.