D402

Interesting graphs but they wouldn't show if there was a different time lag between pedal input and throttle opening in each mode Mine too, wish I could get 2 or 3 times as much improvement again though

I wonder if ripping the CDs, burning the ripped files to a CD then putting that in the reader would work and be close enough to the CD experience

Rip your CDs to a lossless format such as FLAC then copy them to a USB memory stick to play in the car. I use a free PC app called Exact Audio Copy for this.

Get a passenger to listen while you drive, they may be able to pinpoint the noise more easily than you can.

Thanks, I stand corrected! @BerisfordDoes your experience at 60mph match @xman's at 35?

Next time you clean your discs this way, check the front brake temperature afterwards!

That's because the park brake switch applies the front and rear brakes if pulled while the car is moving, similar to ACC braking but much harder.

The pleasure and pain of brilliant silver; doesn't show the dirt, but doesn't look much different after two hours of washing it!

Don't worry, the freehub splines and lockring are all that's needed to hold it together. The little bolt just makes assembly easier.

Sounds like the brake pads moving in the caliper. Does it do it if you coast to a halt without using the brakes, then accelerate? Or if you roll down a hill in neutral, brake to a halt then release the brakes to roll away?

Both ACC and front assist put the brake lights on if they apply the brake at all.

On paper 190 4x4 is much faster than 150 4x2 (0-60mph 7.7s vs. 8.8s), 190 4x2 is slower than 190 4x4 (8.0s vs 7.7s) Are both cars 6-speed DSG? Has your friend's been remapped?

A wheel can be buckled but still balance perfectly, and only a tiny distortion is needed to make a vibration you can feel. This recent thread mentions Skoda specifying 0.5mm as the maximum allowable run-out. Vibration through the steering wheel suggests that a front wheel is the problem, you could try swapping wheels front to rear to see if that makes any difference.

Buckled wheel would be my guess.

That's definitely not how the rest of the automotive industry define active and passive safety. I suspect this is your employers covering their arses against customers having problems after you've carried out repairs. If the insurance companies required this evidence for ADAS repairs, wouldn't they want the same evidence for work on tyres, brakes etc that are safety critical in every journey, not just the ones where ADAS might help?

Wow, where did you get that from? Active safety systems help to prevent collisions i.e. ABS, traction control, front collision intervention. Passive safety systems react to collisions i.e. crumple zones, seatbelts, airbags (all of them). Adaptive cruise control is a driver assistance system.

Sorry to question your qualifications but I find this hard to believe - Front Assist is not an MOT item so does not affect the legal roadworthiness of a vehicle. In any case, you can deactivate Front Assist through the infotainment, it would be ridiculous if doing this rendered your car unroadworthy and insurance invalid!

Looking good All Electric still going mad with the stickers though I see.

Absolutely right, I've seen it done with expensive consequences (boss's shoes got ruined ). You can get sealed bags of expanding foam intended for making custom packaging, if you can get them the right size and shape then they would be a safer alternative.

The only issue I had was that the parking ticket clip was a bit floppy afterwards. Parts-wise, either nothing needed replacing or the windscreen company knew what was required and supplied it.

The range estimate is far too quick to adjust to short term changes in driving conditions in my opinion. A 1.3 mile hill climbing 600' near me knocked the range down from 300 to 265 miles, I didn't get them back on the return journey either! In fact, the 'Greenscore' was worse on the way down

I wonder if it's got miles and km confused somehow - 32km being 20 miles, not far off your 18. You could try changing units then changing them back again.

Sensibly, the speed limiter still works with an odd tyre on It amazed me how quickly it's detected when you set off too.

Thermal performance is quite a challenge especially as higher power vehicle systems like power steering move to electric actuation and from in-cabin to underbonnet locations. Glad I'm the systems engineer specifying the requirements rather than the designer having to implement them!

It should be designed to work normally up to something like 105 °C ambient there.