D402

Reminds me of the car that didn't like vanilla ice cream

Here you go, it says to use a screwdriver but the key is perfect for the job too. P.S, all I did to insert this image was copy and paste it then it uploaded automatically, so easy

And also to remove the headrests.

I think I've fixed the glovebox door so it latches properly again 🤞 Pulling the door upwards from the left hand hinge to realign the catches and a smear of grease on the catch pins seems to have done the trick.

@MarkyG82I think @Phil-Ewas aiming a my original post. I am convinced the garage have done something as well as the oil change. It wouldn't surprise me if the system was programmed to slow down shifts as it approaches the scheduled maintenance and set them back to normal when it's done so that the profitable service feels worthwhile and you come back for more!

Can i ask how much that plan is costing you? It was a Black Friday 2020 deal at £12.75 per month for 24 months consisting of one oil service and one extended scope with air and pollen filters included & at what age of car and at how many miles is your car now? The car is 4.5 years old and coming up to 39000 miles What servicing was previously done pre Extended scope and oil and inspection service? I've had the car from new, leased for the first two years on another Black Friday deal. Being leased, it was on variable servicing to start with and had its first oil service when the car requested it at 18000 miles and 18 months old. Covid meant I started working from home and hardly used the car. It was a relief when the car requested another oil service in April 2021 at 34000 miles and this was done on the service plan. The service interval must have been reset to annual servicing hence the recent service. Extended Scope comes up every 3 years. So would pollen and air filter get changed on all 3 year old petrol cars if the had a service plan? That is not to Skoda / VW recommendations or schedule. The pollen filter is due at 2 years. The air filter would be at the 2nd Extended Scope so at 6 years, maybe 60,000 miles. Looks like the service plan gives you more than the service schedule requires and I guess they've done the extended scope service with the filters early as this is included. I'm not complaining as I feel the car has been serviced appropriately for the use it's had. The next question for me is when and where to have the cambelt changed...

Air and pollen filters are included in the service plan at the 'extended scope' service, had mine done last week.

I've just had a DSG service done at nearly 40,000 miles and am surprised at the positive effects it's had - shifts are much crisper and occur earlier making for a more responsive drive. Previously I would often see the gear display indicate a shift a second or more before it actually occurred, now it shifts first and then the display updates. Has anyone else had a similar outcome?

Is the pointy thing the remote release for the back seats?

True, no difference in fuel consumption between D and S modes in my experience.

That's odd, mine will usually be in 5th doing a steady 30 on the flat. It only uses 3rd at 30 during a DPF regen.

@philg25I'm told that it should be possible to re-engage the spindle thread but that it may have a left-hand thread. Also to be reassured that you are not the first to fall into this trap, including mechanics who should have known better. Have you tried turning the spindle both ways while pushing the piston back?

Are you sure it doesn't have AA? My 2015 SE Business did and that's a much lower spec.

With this EPB, you mustn't turn the piston, just push it straight it in. @philg25 I would try removing the motor as shown in the video, then push the piston back while turning the spindle in the hope of re-engaging the actuator thread. If that works, wind it right back, push the piston fully back, reassemble everything then clear the EPB fault and run the 'Start lining' and 'End lining' if it'll let you. Check that the brake pedal is firm before driving, you may have allowed air into the system; if so the caliper needs bleeding. Be prepared for needing a new caliper though, good luck.

Nearly two months on and I've had no further problems, reseating the tyre must have cured the leak.

We tried pushing but couldn't shift it. I should have known better than to drive on to the soft grass in the first place really; I saw our neighbour's wheel tracks and assumed they'd been driving in and out without problems when, in fact, they'd had to be towed out too.

Got it stuck in mud while on holiday, d'oh! At least I got far enough to line up for an easy tow out. It might be useful to report that you press the top of the rear towing eye cover to open it, and the towing eye has a left hand thread.

Mine's slow too

Yes, they didn't charge me for the check although I'd happily have paid for what they did. The tyre is still up today but I've not driven far, longer journeys coming up tomorrow and next weekend.

I've sprayed soapy water around the valve and given it a good wiggle, there was no sign of any leak there. The tyre fitters did remove the tyre from the rim to inspect them and didn't find anything wrong. It hasn't lost any pressure since I drove home yesterday so I'm hoping that it's sealed properly this time. We've had four VAG cars with indirect TPMS and they've all given false warnings after correcting pressures and resetting the system. It seems to need several resets before it stops giving these false warnings. On the other hand, when we've really had slow punctures, the TPMS has picked them up correctly before any further damage occurred, as on this occasion. It didn't detect a rapid deflation from sidewall damage from a pothole impact before I stopped to inspect it anyway though.

Thanks all, good point about the valve. It wasn't replaced as they didn't find a leak there. I'll check it out. The tyre place assures me that the tyre and rim are fine. I did reset the TPMS each time I corrected the pressures, it has worked well on this occassion.

I checked my tyre pressures on New Years Eve, found them all a bit low and topped them up; later on a short journey, the TPMS flagged one as low; when I got home, it had dropped about 0.5 bar so I topped it up again. When I checked it on 4th Jan, it hadn't lost any pressure and I couldn't see any damage or embedded screw heads etc. I did a few more short journeys that day with no TPMS warnings. By 6th Jan, it was completely flat. Today, I've pumped it back up and taken it to the local tyre fitters who can't find anything wrong! Any ideas?

I'm thinking that the exhaust flaps only open in Sport mode so they are linked somehow, perhaps the flap motors run off the same supply as the coils or injectors and cause the misfire faults when they open or close. If you disconnect the flaps, can you drive in Sport mode without misfire faults? Do you ever see the faults when not in Sport mode?

It's bizarre but you actually have to cut the back of the lamp housing open to get to the sidelight bulbs. Here's a previous post on the subject:

Here you go, it hasn't been driven for five days so braking surface is a bit rusty. These were fitted in September 2020.