D402

Clamp 30 is battery voltage, nicely explained here: KL15, KL30, KL31, KL50, KLR and Ignition Position

Can't argue with that

Sorry, I meant the other side of the blue connector on the circuit board so we can see if the missing pin is populated - the opposite side to this: @ApertureS, @langers2k I know I'm clutching at straws here but sometimes pins are not populated to save €0.0001, *2 on the wiring diagram does say "According to equipment" !

If there's no stub of the missing pin visible below the blue connector body, then I'd assume that only the 3 pins are used. Can you share a picture of the other side of the connector?

Lots of owners have reported problems with the start button, perhaps the facing uphill is a coincidence. DIY fix for the starter button here: Ignition switch (w/ Kessy) restoration Worth a try to eliminate this cause perhaps.

Seems like a good idea but somebody, somewhere, lives at the top of a mountain, charges fully every night and doesn't have any regen capacity at the start of their journey...

It's fine to push the piston back with or without the old pads still in place, it's also fine if the front pistons rotate while you're doing it. The rears, however, must be pushed straight back without rotating because this could damage the electric park brake mechanism. I use a g-clamp on cars and motorcycles, and a screwdriver between the old pads on pushbikes.

Both the front and rears push straight back, but, for the rears, you have to use a diagnostic tool to electrically retract the electric park brake mechanism first.

Yes, during the 2020 lockdown I left my car parked for 6 weeks with a solar charger like this 2.5W 12V Waterproof Solar Panel Kit Solar Car Battery Charger Trickle Maintainer plugged in to the cabin12V socket. The battery seemed fully charged when I started using the car again but stop/start didn't work for a while. In hindsight, I should have connected the charger to the under-bonnet terminals.

It's been a few years since I last used them, but I was a regular customer of Autovolks and always found them helpful and good value.

There's a flap in there to prevent misfuelling and I guess your nozzle doesn't insert far enough to open it like a normal pump nozzle does.

I did the opposite with Carista on my wife's SEAT Ateca so it's definitely possible

Push all the buttons in on both the front and rear panels to get the normal, door-activated lights.

Use the existing LED +ve to switch a relay or transistor that drives the extra LED, take power from the 12V supply.

I've got the Brembo pads and would not recommend them; less bite and more dust than the originals (which were eaten by rusty discs). Ferodo DS Performance pads were great on my previous car, well worth the extra cost. Very pleased with the Brembo discs though, they still look good after a couple years of use.

Your bedding in process might have been too gentle. Try braking hard from about 100kph down to 10kph several times in succession (it is important not to brake to a stop during this process). If this doesn't help, then replace the bent rim before investigating the brakes further.

It's probably not a fault with your car, there's been a problem with the traffic information broadcasts recently but it's working again now.

You can change the solid rear discs without removing the carrier so @PhilD2 should be ok with his TDI 150. Not needed - you can switch the ignition off while the electric park brake is in the service position, it will remember its state when you switch back on to complete the process. Yes, it has to be told to exit the service mode and will then extend and retract the actuator a few times to learn the new pad thickness.

I've not got KESSY and have three!

replaced by an option in the Car->Settings->Opening and Closing menu

The same happened to me, a vertical crack straight down from the top edge near the middle with no apparent cause. It was replaced under insurance with no questions asked.

Thanks again @MartiniB I can't fit ECE AS(A1) 2023 onto my 16gb card even with the unused languages deleted, does anyone know if there's another workaround?

Now I understand the problem! Disc skimming in the UK would cost more than new discs I think. Since you have stands I would recommend using them. I put mine in the location suggested by @JR RS that will not get in the way of your jack:

You can do it one wheel at a time. Make sure the corner you are working on is securely supported though, you will have to work underneath the car to do the carrier bolts.

You are right about the carriers. The front carrier bolts have the normal hexagonal heads on mine, can't remember the size but it was in my 1/2" socket set. They are torqued to 200Nm and awkward to access but it can be done, unclipping a section of the undertray helped me gain an extra bit of space for the torque wrench.