SkudMissile21

Jeez that didn’t last long!

Definitely not frozen at plus 15 degrees! Haven’t even had the low single figures here for a while. Good to know someone else has had it replaced under warranty, just hoping they will just do the job rather than mess me about now I’ve paid hundreds for another years warranty with zero excess. Out of warranty I would happily replace it myself being an electrical maintenance engineer but for now it’s not my problem to fix!

I’ve had the fuel flap refuse to open on me three times now, this morning being the worst and most stubborn. Searching the forum I found posts on the other models (octavia mk3 mainly) but nothing for the superb. Im guessing it’s the same design and solenoid actuator that’s failing? it’s under warranty and going in next Friday to be looked at, I can see fault code “197644 - control circuit for fuel tank flap” status electrical failure - intermittent in VCDS which has happened 16 times as of the scan I did last week when it left me looking like a tool on the forecourt until it finally released and I’ve told the dealer but pretty sure this one was listed when it went in for the service (mentioned it at the time and the rear wiper sticking straight up intermittently) but got the old classic “can’t replicate the fault / no fault codes stored” line at the time. Has anyone else had this sorted under warranty before it completely failed shut as it seems like destroying the flap is about the only option of it gets to that stage! After a lot of thumping while locking and unlocking its working again for now and I’ve soaked the plunger with silicone lubricant spray but it’s clearly gonna fail again and needs replacing…..

No option for Revo where you are then? Reading this just reminds me of the horror story another member had with a “custom” remap which blew the turbo and ended up costing him thousands before he chucked in the towel and sold the car. Plenty of people have used Revo on this engine without problems so if that’s an option I’d say look into that as it’s a known safe map. it’s certainly who I’ll be going for if/when I remap mine.

Sure you’re well aware of this as you’ve renewed several times previously but make sure to factor in the 30 day delay on the start date. I took mine out beginning of august though my original year doesn’t run out until tomorrow as I spotted the “cannot start for 30 days” clause when checking for prices. Maybe it doesn’t apply to a renewal but I didn’t want to take the chance of a gap in cover so I just put the start date to run from the original expiry.

Sinclair Skoda Swansea was where I got my 280 from last September (wasn’t local as I’m in Somerset!), didn’t have any service or warranty work done by them obviously but I can’t fault their sales team, very friendly and helpful!

I’ve not had a problem updating my Columbus 2018 (done a couple of times and due to do again), I use a 128gb micro sd in SD adapter (borrowed from the dash cam usually) and just extract the downloaded file using standard winzip on windows 10 with the card formatted using windows and copy the extracted folders across. I enter the car via the passenger door and turn on the infotainment by holding the power button then start the update and leave the car locked. It just does it’s thing and doesn’t turn off or flatten the battery. Usually takes about 40 minutes 🤷‍♂️

Mine was the door lock which got replaced. I also had electric window issues which required a new switch unit in the drivers door so your issues are probably two separate (and known) ones!

Mine isn’t remapped and won’t be for at least another year until the warranty is up and it’s paid for so I certainly don’t need to be remapping the dsg at similar cost! It’s perfectly fine day to day and easy to overcome the limitations when you are aware of them when needed like the paddle shifters or going into manual or sport

Does anyone know how to enter a house number after entering a postcode? this seems so backwards now compared to my previous sat navs that then asked for a house number - it was annoying when going to a public location where you only had the postcode (and had to just enter “anywhere”) but much better when going to a private residence in a big street with lots of house numbers.

I third that….! I much preferred the system on my old mk1 octy where the heated mirrors were on in the central position rather than having a specific position like the current models have which is made worse by leaving it in the left position now so the auto reverse mirror position works. if there was a VCDS option to permanently enable the heated mirrors in all positions I’d take it!

I tried the VCDS mods on mine but didn’t notice any difference. A pedal box however makes a huge difference though still can’t account for the DSG wanting to constantly change to the highest gear possible so when going up a hill it’s in 4th instead of 3rd so it’s either give it more throttle and then it drops down or slow down involuntarily. Manually dropping back to 3rd solves it with no additional throttle input but the pedal box definitely is an improvement over standard. Every time I’ve switched it off to try and see it soon gets put back on again!

I’ve done 13000 miles in the last year on the 19’s and honestly had no issues even with the pot holes roads on a variety of surfaces. one thing I will say is since changing to Michelin pilot sport 4 there is noticeably more rubber stuck out sideways to protect the rims from accidental kerbing (which I did in the early days on the front left with the original fitted tyres…) My advice is don’t bother changing, just got some decent rubber and enjoy it the way it was meant to look, 17’s will look silly on a car this big

I’ve got a Sportline 280 on 19” wheels without dcc and I find it no less comfortable than my previous mk2 was on 17’s. Cant see what all the fuss is about personally, the roads are crap so if you want a smoother ride buy a hover board cos no amount of tyre or wheel changes is gonna improve the roads around here! (And I speak from experience as I’m also local and Carrs is where mine goes for service etc…)

Sounds possible, my old mk2 had the clutch destroy the gearbox at around 55k miles and the original was definitely plain alloy silver coloured from the photos I’ve got at the time. Mine had the bell housing replaced with the gearbox completely overhauled new bearings and 6th gear replaced due to oil starvation damage plus a new clutch and flywheel with little change from £2k

@Nick_H standard figment? You mean the original owner of mine actually had it changed to a manual boot deliberately then? Must’ve known something we don’t! as for keyless entry I think it’s brilliant, my only complaint is having to keep the keys in a faraday pouch at home in case anyone ever tried to pinch it using a remote hijack. The newer keys that switch off after a time are ok but I’d rather just have a slide switch on the key like the silent button on my phone to disable the keyless part if required.

Makes me kinda glad mine only has the traditional manual boot on it! No idea how much it was as an option when specced but I guess the original owner was either too tight or had good foresight….

Can’t speak for your home country but over here it’s pretty much forget the warranty if you remap or otherwise modify it and likewise insurance needs to be informed as well. You can try to not declare these things to insurers and the dealer but neither are stupid and in the event of an accident the investigators would likely be interrogating the ecu especially on a performance car like these and the dealer would be able to spot a remap flag on the ecu and worse case could overwrite it anyway just by doing a routine ecu software update while in for service or warranty work which would then render your remap cost wasted. you could always be upfront with the dealer and remap it anyway but any warranty claim you tried would likely be rejected as they love to find an excuse to not pay out just like insurance would.

Pretty much any remap is gonna invalidate your warranty! If you’re that desperate for more power maybe look at a removable tuning box? You would need to take it completely off before going anywhere near the dealers though but it’s probably less traceable for them than a remap which would be very obvious when they plug in to the diagnostic port.

For me while I have a 4 year loan on the car (on track to be paid in 2) and having been stung a £2k bill on my mk2 superb for the clutch eating the gearbox debacle it was an outlay not worth not taking considering the aforementioned gear selector issue can cost upwards of £500-700 and that’s before you consider any dsg issues (the mk2 wasn’t dsg but you have to get my point from the previous issue!). saving up money per month instead would never work, there’s always something I could spend that on - this way it’s a done deal so no worries. the plan is probably to revo stage 1 it once paid for and out of warranty so that’s been put back another year for now, no problem as it’s still bloody quick really. hopefully by the time this warranty is up any gremlins will have shown themselves and I’ll be confident to either stage 1 it and take my chances or will feel it was money well spent and will do it again like @Nick_H has each year.

Oh well ended up paying upfront after all for peace of mind and saving me the extra £40 over the year, it’s only money….

Did you take a voluntary excess on that Nick? Thinking of going for the zero excess but monthly as I don’t have a spare £403 right now and don’t want to load up my credit card any more (bad couple of months ahead )

Looking as this for my 280 now as well, can anyone confirm the infamous gear selector leave in park thing would be covered if it ever occurs on mine? The wording does seem to cover switches and sensors but not actual wiring, I believe the fault is usually down to the switch on the selector assembly and quite intensive/expensive to repair out of warranty? guessing if my sunroof ever develops a leak that wouldn’t be covered as it seems to exclude bodywork which seems bizarre to me but hey ho

If you can’t get to the speaker wires from the head unit or screen (whichever system it has) then the only other option would be to intercept the speaker wires front or back and feed them off to something like an audio controls LC2i signal converter/processor and then to your amp/sub. Obviously it’s easier if you can access the wiring behind the glove box rather than in the doors but unless there’s some voodoo magic I’ve not seen before then at some point there will be good old fashioned speaker wires going to each door from either the head unit or an amp, it’s just finding it that’s the challenge.

@Roberto280 yes don’t get me wrong I usually only get around 32mpg these days as that was set when there was a long section of 50mph limit with average cameras so now thats gone I’m doing 75 on the clock mostly (maniac I know before the holier than thou brigade appear ) so that’s obviously using a bit more fuel but most of my economy on that journey comes from the 12 minutes i takes to get to the motorway junction and I can easily get 30mpg by then in any of the modes if I’m careful with the loud pedal anyway so once up to speed eco isn’t really going to work then anyway