TheClient

The warranty is a distraction. It's a way for them to edit (try to) dodge the consumer rights. Blind you with small print and say the excess is your problem!! The key is how long have you had the vehicle. Under 30 days right to reject. over 30 days they can fix if they can, after 6 months onus falls onto you to prove car was faulty or engineered with a fault when purchased. * check consumer law exactly, that is my recall of the consumer rights act. I had a 2011 FL vRS petrol. Same engine as yours. I bought it with 34k miles and sold it with 70k miles to a dentist after 5 years, as his everyday commuter as he didn't want to put too many miles on his good cars!. I never put more than 0.5 to 1l in between annual 7k mile services. It goes to show it is not normal and different driving or servicing can alter the longevity. Fixed service regime annually much better for these engines. No more than 6 or 7k miles between services ideally. If you are under 30 days it may be best to reject the car, The fix be it a turbo or worse, rings and pistons and rebuild is not going to be cheap, easy or fast and could you trust the garage you bought from to do a proper job. Or just use their mates garage to cover the problem up for a few months..... Edit. there are other things to check. Oil leaks, pcv fine oil separator often fails, etc but that is quite a lot of oil. And again would you commission the investigation or the dealer. If the latter would you trust them.

When I did mine, I sent the injectors off for cleaning and testing. They did respond to the testing. Everything looked similar to yours maybe slightly less. Mine was about 70k miles when I did it. It did idle better and was more responsive after. And no more hesitation (misses) when cold under light throttle.

Springs do also sag. But the op said the ride height is OK. I found on my mk2 vrs the rear springs were at least 15mm below the manufacturer ride height spec for the sport suspension lowered pr code. From about 6 years on and got a little worse after that. I changed springs at about 8.5 years but should of earlier. I used to hit bump stops with a fully loaded car with bumps and dips in the road. Agree with all though, that the springs will not be creating the bouncy undampened effect. Edit. Also surprising for me was the shocks were actually OK. And still felt good when I sold the car at 11 years old. But I also agree that they can and do fail early sometimes.

Lots of other oil usage reports. But fixes point towards piston/ rings.

Mmm. Seems suspiciously like they are not right. If there is not enough width in the bar to go accross the roofline on a mk3 hatch then you can't fix that!!

Yes OK. 1 year. 10k miles. Very low to see oil residue appearing. Clean up and monitor. Could ask the dealer to measure pcv vacuum to check within spec.

Very common to have some oil residue inside the intake pipes due to the pcv system. But usually it is more obvious along the horizontal run (along firewall) and particularly the joint down to the turbo. If it is not excessive I wouldn't worry. But on 1 1 year old car, how many miles, I'm surprised it is noticeable now?? Could be the fine oil separator needs replacing, mounted on the cam cover. They are almost a scheduled replacement item at 5 years on. But can fail earlier.

It's a lot of oil! Probably just out of spec of even the ridiculous quoted figures by vw / skoda as acceptable. It used to the the Gen 2 ea888 2.0L and 1.8 tsi that were the problem oil burners. But I have seen a few posts on the later diesels in mk3s on here. Do some searching. pretty sure it was a piston / ring problem(s). Assuming as you say, no external leaks, and turbo is ok, that's most likely. What oil change history does it have? Long life service intervals?

What there is in the post to go on, probably indicates pad to disc contact. a strip down and reassembly of rear brakes inspecting parts, pistons, calipers is all I could recommend.

A few images to go with the explanation. Note: this is on a Mk7 Golf, MQB with bixenon headlights, HBA lowline and dynamic cornering lights (halogen).

Some success - I think. I'll post a more detailed reply later but on 09 - changed the adaption for light assist - High Beam Assist (text was in German Menuesteurung Fernlichtassistent ) to Not Present. In Long coding byte 2, changed option to Bi-xenon without light assist. [Initially I deselected all headlight options under byte 2, but then the dynamic cornering light option disappeared from the menu in the ent system.] Seems to have worked. No mfd dash warning or ping when using high beam. It also seems to have removed the 09 fault error for a data error received. The HBA error for faulty control module still shows in scan but that doesn't worry me. @langers2k given the above - I shouldn't be left with a battery drain issued should I? Thanks All.

Thanks both. Maybe not that far!! I'll try the bcm adaptions and coding first and see if any change. Thanks for all the pointers. I'll respond back as to any success or not with coding and adaption changes.

Potentially make it very tricky, unless doing the scheduled services at Skoda or another independent with receipts to spec. I only buy cars over 3 years..... All I can afford for one, servicing options another.... depreciation already incurred another...

Yes.ok. Good. But why....... if it is still under warranty I'd take it in for diagnostic read.

Should be a dtc stored. Doesn't sound normal. I do all servicing on my golf r, no funny idle after oil change. I just did it as well. Very similar engine to yours based on gen3 ea888 in both cars... assuming yours is petrol...

Thanks. I don't think I explained myself properly. I can get the mirror off. It's separating the mirror casing to get to the pcb I couldn't do!

Yes. Thanks. That must be why I have no option related to HBA in the lighting menu. It can only be deactivated in use, by turning the headlights on the rotary switch to on, not auto. In auto HBA functions all the time. Not for me though as its faulty! And I usually keep the headlights on auto so always get confronted with the fault!

@NikTheGeek thanks for your reply. i agree, im not too fussed about having HBA. The dash ping and dash fault everytime I first use high beam annoys me though. I'm not sure if it's due to my equipment spec or if it's because of the faulty module but there is no HBA or FLS option in my entertainment menus under lighting. I'm blocked at every turn to trying to get around this!! BTW how did you get the mirror apart? Thanks A

Hi @langers2k Oh that will explain maybe why I haven't been successful. I tried to change the first bit in module 20 where it specifies headlight type to 00 so nothing selected. But it wouldn't accept it. Bear with me for a second though. Say you had a car without hba, just auto dimming, then you get a used part for my lowline type hba mirror. Wouldn't you need some coding. Or are you saying it would work on plugging in? Annoying if I can't deactivate hba. I just thought it is my coding incompetence and I've missed some coding or adaption deselected in 19 gateway or 09 central electronics. Yes. I saw the resistor write up. I could probably fix that. But after removing the mirror and try with several pry tools, credit card etc I gave up. Its well closed up - the mirror assembly. Wondered if it has to be cut apart. Thanks for your reply...

Hello All, I'm new to coding and adaptions. I have been trying to find some instructions on how to code lowline module 20 HBA in the hope I can deactivate mine permanently as the control module in the mirror is faulty. Therefore, everytime I use high beam for the first time after restarting car you get an error in the MFD saying it is faulty and and ping as well. There's heaps of posts I've reviewed but almost all refer to module a5 which I don't have. I have ACC, no separate front assist module and the lowline HBA mirror control module. Scan below (VCDS). I am actually using OBD eleven, VCDS was borrowed, but even if I understood how to do it on VCDS that would be a strong pointer. This is on a mk7 Golf MQB - similar to Octavia 3. Thanks Log-edit.txt

It is a bolt slid into a retaining recess of the plastic of the siren on the other side. If it is turning the bolt has seized and has probably worn the plastic retaining slot. You know the sirens that come out faulty usually have damaged pcb due to the battery cell leakage? Few options. Spray it with penetrating spray, Impact gun maybe, grind it off or use a bolt remover kit to drill into the end of the bolt to try to counter hold it.

the possible difficulty with replacing the actuator on the ea888 gen 3 is the access. I have a feeling the downpipe may need to come off.

Guess they mean wastegate play could be causing boost issues rather than actuator being the cause? I couldn't say on the info provided. A scan may help a bit. Some data logging of specified vs delivered boost may enlighten also.

There aren't vanes on the tsi 230. It uses an ihi turbo with a wastegate.

A OEM grade actuator can be got for £200 to £250. Maybe cheaper if you trust some ebay suppliers from OS. Mahle I think was OEM. You CAN NOT usually get it from VW, has to be OEM from another parts source. So £450 to fit? Seems like quite a lot. depends on how much stuff needs to be taken off. Did they say how many hours? This must be an independent, as VW won't normally offer you the actuator repair alone? With it being a £700 quote, to replace only the actuator, that is getting up there, it is not a cheap repair to try and to have no come back without any guarantee? On the other hand if it was £250 or less, and I did it myself, that is a different equation. What is the actual fault code and have they removed the actuator linkage connection and moved the wastegate arm to check operation? The fact that it will operate sometimes without fault after resets does perhaps point to the actuator, but £700 sure without any other information or checks? I couldn't be certain.